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Old 03-27-06, 07:10 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoser
wngrog's tires are 13.50" wide which are over an inch wider than 315's.

3/4" wheel adapters (spacer) MIGHT work (I'm interested to know) though I wonder if strength is an issue with that size. i.e. lugs pulling out?

I'd need to dig up the vendor I used for the wheel adapters but there are many of them online. Maybe try www.wheelspacer.com

Here are the specs you need:
5x150
110mm Bore on vehicle (so wheel adapter bore might be 110.5mm or so)
14mm x 1.5 studs

Expect these wheel adapters to cost more ones for other vehicles because of the larger 5x150 bolt pattern.
I have sent them 2 emails with nbo answer. Can you see if you can find the place you used?


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Old 03-27-06, 07:19 PM   #62
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Crow Automotive will make any size spacer you need


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Old 03-27-06, 08:50 PM   #63
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Let em rub, if your tyres dont rub, means you can fit bigger ones

Save the wheel spacers then, for the 315 or 37" fitment, down the track.


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Old 03-27-06, 08:56 PM   #64
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Wngrog, in your picture are you deciding on what roof rack to use? (I noticed the one in the background).


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Old 03-27-06, 09:36 PM   #65
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No that is the aluminum receiver rack. I have tons invested in Yakima stuff. I will be using Yakima, I don't want to start over now.


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Old 03-27-06, 09:49 PM   #66
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Damn you like to draw on your driveway alot! Every pic I look at has hieroglyphics in it.

Rig is coming along nicely; I can't wait to see all of the color keyed armor in place.


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Old 03-28-06, 12:09 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wngrog
I have sent them 2 emails with nbo answer. Can you see if you can find the place you used?
I had the wheel adapters machined by a guy in SoCal who's name is either Junior or J.R. (I forget) 909-844-0942. I was satisfied with the work and the turn around time was just like 3 days. Who ever you go with, make sure they include the low profile nuts with the adapters as those can be hard to find.


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Old 03-28-06, 06:48 PM   #68
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Did the install of the sliders and bumper. My buddies chipped in and with their help and me stopping to take pictures the old stuff was removed and the new installed in 40 minutes.
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Old 03-28-06, 06:51 PM   #69
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Schotts shots
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Old 03-28-06, 06:52 PM   #70
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I really like the bumpers being painted the lighter silver like the body instead of the darker color the old bumpers were painted. Thanks Garth for the nudge in that direction.
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Old 03-28-06, 06:54 PM   #71
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I can not say enough about the quality of the Slee Sliders and the rear bumper. All the holed line up perfectly, the instructions are clear, the packaging is perfect........
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Old 03-28-06, 07:05 PM   #72
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Looks GREAT!!!! Love the match. Very low key, very stout.

What are the plans for the front end?


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Old 03-28-06, 07:17 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tabraha
Looks GREAT!!!! Love the match. Very low key, very stout.

What are the plans for the front end?
I have an ARB bumper headed this way from Seattle. I plan on painting it the same color

M8000 that is on my buggy will be going in the bumper.

No decision on lights yet. I did not get the built in light kit. Wanna have it all finished by Cruise Moab.


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Old 03-28-06, 07:20 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ats4x4dotcom
copyied from bulls build post-

"You should maintain a minimum of 70mm [2.75"] of droop in the 100 IFS front set up, if you have a Slee diff drop fitted, to stop the cv boots wearing out. [boot pleats shouldnt be touching in straight ahead position at ride height]

This is normally 50-60mm higher than standard, depending on accessory levels.

on a 16" rim this makes for 770mm [30.3"] measurenent from bottom of rim bead edge up through centre of wheel to fender edge when set up correctly.

Rear should be aprox 790-800mm [31.5"]"
OK, after installing the Slee bumper it did not come down at all......with or without the spare in there.

Front (with 18" wheels) is 31.5" and the rear is 33"

1.5" rake back to front.

Christo and Darren, if you are reading this, I would like a set of those Bilsteins for the front so I can crank the bars up another 1" to level it out.


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Old 03-28-06, 09:05 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleeoffroad
If wngrog did not cheap out and buy plastic drawers he would have been ok with the 863's







There ya go!


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Old 03-28-06, 09:07 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wngrog
Christo and Darren, if you are reading this, I would like a set of those Bilsteins for the front so I can crank the bars up another 1" to level it out.
You are within 1/2" of where you would be with the Bilseins at the moment in the front.


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Old 03-28-06, 09:13 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ats4x4dotcom
You are within 1/2" of where you would be with the Bilseins at the moment in the front.






I don't think you want to level it out even if you could. I experimented with this and found, as Christo and others have said, a 1" lower rake to the front will allow the 100's to handle and track much better...just as they were designed.


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Old 03-28-06, 09:26 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spressomon
I don't think you want to level it out even if you could. I experimented with this and found, as Christo and others have said, a 1" lower rake to the front will allow the 100's to handle and track much better...just as they were designed.
Cool. I was thinking I was going to be lower with the winch and bumper, but I realized it is not the torsion bar that is the limiting factor but the shock.

When it drops from the extra weight, I can just crank it up a turn or two.

Thanks for the feedback.

Next up: ARB Bumper and Locker


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Old 03-28-06, 09:42 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wngrog
Cool. I
When it drops from the extra weight, I can just crank it up a turn or two.

Thanks for the feedback.

Next up: ARB Bumper and Locker

5 turns of the adjuster on the T bar is 3/4" [20mm] and NEVER adjust them with weight on them, always jack the car up, so the wheels are drooped before adjusting.


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Old 03-28-06, 09:47 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ats4x4dotcom
5 turns of the adjuster on the T bar is 3/4" [20mm] and NEVER adjust them with weight on them, always jack the car up, so the wheels are drooped before adjusting.
Tanx for da tip


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Old 03-28-06, 10:17 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by wngrog
I really like the bumpers being painted the lighter silver like the body instead of the darker color the old bumpers were painted. Thanks Garth for the nudge in that direction.
Your 100 is really coming along nicely! I really like the paint scheme you went with too. I paint matched my front ARB and Slee step sliders, but I went with the gray like the original bumpers. I haven't painted my Slee rear yet because its been too cold.

Now that I've seen yours and Shotts, I'm really considering pulling the front bumper and sliders and painting them green at the same time that I paint the rear bumper. I've been considering having the body trim painted anyways as its peeling in a couple small spots. I'm just not sure how the dark green would look for the whole rig.

I look forward to checking out your 100 at Moab!


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Old 03-28-06, 11:02 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wngrog
Tanx for da tip



And, at least when I did mine, after letting the rig down off the jack it is best to drive it around the block first before measuring...


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Old 03-29-06, 12:32 AM   #83
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Your 100 is really coming along nicely! I really like the paint scheme you went with too. I paint matched my front ARB and Slee step sliders,
I like the way the 100 IFS sliders Christo have done are just the right height to stop the wayward shopping trolleys from putting dents in the doors while wheeling the local mall for a lo cal, lo fat, decaf, half strength, soy latte


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Old 03-29-06, 06:15 AM   #84
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Greg, I plan on painting the front bumper with it ON the vehicle. Besides the sliders, the F and R bumpers would be just as easy that way.


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Old 03-29-06, 07:48 AM   #85
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I like the way the 100 IFS sliders Christo have done are just the right height to stop the wayward shopping trolleys from putting dents in the doors while wheeling the local mall for a lo cal, lo fat, decaf, half strength, soy latte

Ha Ha! I know you're just yankin' my chain a bit, but I will say this. Last week-end I went wheelin' and on this particular trail there is a section with a 4 foot tall wall of dirt and tree roots on the left side and the trail slopes hard left so if you go wide you'll slide into the wall.

So, you have to put your tires up against the wall and try not to slip into the wall. Slee's step sliders are perfect for this. Once my front tire was against the wall, the step slider stuck out just enough to keep my doors out of the wall.

Some other type of slider that didn't stick out as far would not have given me this protection. It was pretty cool to slide the length of the slider on a tree root and come away unscathed. Thanks again Christo!

Sorry for the hi-jack wngrog.


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Old 03-29-06, 07:10 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by Greg B
Ha Ha! I know you're just yankin' my chain a bit, but I will say this. Last week-end I went wheelin' and on this particular trail there is a section with a 4 foot tall wall of dirt and tree roots on the left side and the trail slopes hard left
you will get a ticket for driving across the driveway entry, and through the local mall garden if you keep that up you know


But im sure the other coffee sipping soccer moms were super impressed when you got out looking like you meant to do it


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