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Old 08-29-05, 08:47 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calamaridog
What is the P/N?
The part number listed on the receipt is 75557-60010 and the description is "moulding". I apologize, I threw away the package they came in or I would have made sure that number is the same. If this number doesn't work, you can check with CDan, I bought them from him.


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Old 08-29-05, 09:39 AM   #32
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Thanks, I'll try that P/N and post up if it is correct.


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Old 08-29-05, 10:36 AM   #33
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good thread, this goes in the FAQ, thanks Greg, Hoser, and others!


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Old 08-29-05, 11:44 AM   #34
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Just to confirm, Greg B has the correct P/N (75557-60010) for those plastic molding covers. Thanks Greg


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Old 01-01-06, 03:35 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mscott
Thanks for the info guys, I'll let you know the results if I get time to remove and paint. It looks OK now, just not sweet how I like it...
Did you ever get around to giving this a try? I just painted my spoiler and am itching to get that sweet monochrome look...
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Old 01-02-06, 04:39 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calamaridog
Just to confirm, Greg B has the correct P/N (75557-60010) for those plastic molding covers. Thanks Greg
Thank you both too, the P/N is also useful for me. I took one of these covers off and bolted my CB antenna mount onto the holes, then replaced the cover but cut in three pieces. I will buy a spare cover, in case I decide to put the antenna elsewhere.
http://maletero.escharlamotor.org/Fo...00/antena1.jpg
http://maletero.escharlamotor.org/Fo...00/antena2.jpg


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Old 01-31-06, 11:30 PM   #37
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I just removed my factory Roof Rack. It was a piece of cake thanks to the MUD board.

- Remove covers (4) using small screwdriver between split and gently pry upward until you can pull it straight off (up).

- Remove 4 torx on each side and then slide the entire rack forward (or back can't remember) to disengage the t-nut like hold on the center feet.

- When removing the black strip, it is very easy if you gently pop of the rear end first. Then pop off the front and place a rag or something under the front end while you work. Go to the back end of the strip and slowly push it forward. The windows will reveal the plastic snaps that hold the strip in place. Using a small flathead screwdriver, pop each snap off as you slide it forward and it slides right off!

My African Outback rack just came so I will hopefully be installing later this week (pending rain).

In the meantime I placed 12 (8mm x 1.25mm bolts) in the existing holes along with a rubber gasket/washer to seal any water leaks. As security I covered them with duct tape ( only within the channel)

Overall, took about 30 minutes. Not too bad once you know what you are doing


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Old 02-01-06, 08:26 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockclmbr
I just removed my factory Roof Rack. It was a piece of cake thanks to the MUD board.

I'll looking to buy some extra crossbars. If you want to sell yours, let me know how much you would sell them for.


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Old 12-03-06, 07:26 PM   #39
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My 04 TLC has 3 posts on each side. Each post has 2 bolts except the middle one which has 2 holes with threads but one bolt. Bottom line is you will need 6 bolts on each side to fill in the holes. The size is still the same but you need longer ones than was recommended.
Bolt size 8mm x 1.25, but 20 mm long. These will fit perfect. I could not find galvinized bolts but I did find washers. I also put some silicone on the threads, tightend her down and will paint the bolts when all its dry. I have ordered the snap in pieces from cDan.
This is so much easier than my 80 where they had to be pulled out then welded and painted. The 100 cost about $35 in parts vz $800 for the 80


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Old 11-05-07, 04:11 PM   #40
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Quote:
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My 04 TLC has 3 posts on each side. Each post has 2 bolts except the middle one which has 2 holes with threads but one bolt. Bottom line is you will need 6 bolts on each side to fill in the holes. The size is still the same but you need longer ones than was recommended.
Bolt size 8mm x 1.25, but 20 mm long. These will fit perfect.
Sorry to revive an old thread, but what was the final length on those bolts? 12mm or 20mm?
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Old 11-05-07, 05:34 PM   #41
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I used the 12mm on my 2001 that has four bolt holes. 2 were ok and two barely caught the threads. I say get the the 20 since they will be covered and you can get a good waterproof washer or two on it too. Steve


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Old 11-05-07, 05:36 PM   #42
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oh, anybody need a factory rack with faded OEM black paint rails? I'm in New Hampshire.


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Old 02-16-08, 06:22 PM   #43
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Quick question...can you remove the cross bars with our removing the rails?


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Old 02-16-08, 06:37 PM   #44
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no, see your thread.


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Old 02-16-08, 06:40 PM   #45
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Got it..thanks


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Old 05-26-08, 05:09 PM   #46
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I removed my rack. i have the normal 3 spots on each side that need a cover. plus i have a 3.5 inch gap in front of where the front foot of the roof rack went. what goes in this spot?


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Old 05-26-08, 10:21 PM   #47
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When I took my covers off, I broke 3 out of 4 of the corner covers. The two covers for the center popped right off. The others I had to wiggle back and forth, and up and still broke them. I weigh 205 lbs and I was putting a LOT of ass into trying to get those off. Not easy, at least mine weren't.

The factory rails are actually pretty stout. Which actually suprised me when I got the whole thing off and had a look at it. Can't compare with my new rack though


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Old 05-27-08, 09:28 AM   #48
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I removed my rack. i have the normal 3 spots on each side that need a cover. plus i have a 3.5 inch gap in front of where the front foot of the roof rack went. what goes in this spot?
I had asked about that same gap last year. Apparently, the gap is there to stay.

Also, just for reference, my 2004 was bolted on with regular bolts, not torx.


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Old 05-27-08, 12:32 PM   #49
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oh man the gap is there to stay? that sucks. also mine was bolted on with regular bolts also.


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Old 05-27-08, 01:32 PM   #50
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Also, just for reference, my 2004 was bolted on with regular bolts, not torx.

Correct... I found that out after I went and bought a Torx driver and it was bolts. Oh well I got a new tool anyway


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Old 05-29-08, 05:49 AM   #51
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LandCruisers4Life so u also have the gap and u have not found a fix for it?


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Old 05-29-08, 11:25 PM   #52
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LandCruisers4Life so u also have the gap and u have not found a fix for it?

It's there, but I am smarter than the Cruiser, so I re-used the rubber from my factory roof rail set up with my roof rack. See pictures below of the front and rear corners where my ARB roof mounts come up through the rubber, and the sub-frame I built is attached. My install is sano.

Front:



Rear:



Finished product:


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Old 05-31-08, 11:04 AM   #53
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gotcha doesnt help me though. im looking for a fix for the gap with no, aka sans, roof rack


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Old 05-31-08, 11:17 AM   #54
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By "gap," are you referring to the exposed nuts/holes left by the rack after removed? If so, the answer was back on the first page.


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Old 05-31-08, 03:15 PM   #55
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No, there is a piece of aluminum that goes in the gutter, and it doesn't go all the way to the front of the gutter. I dunno why, but it's kind of stupid. The rubber pieces under the factory rack mounts (see my pics) cover that 'gap' which is just forward of the front mount holes. I took the rubber from under the factory rack, and cut the holes bigger to allow the mounts from ARB to fit without disturbing the rubber. Also, there were little rubber tits I cut off with a pair of sharp scissors. When I got ready for the mounts to be installed, I put the mounts on, then slid the rubber pieces over. Before putting in place, I applied black PVC gasket maker to the roof where the rubber pieces would sit. So they are in essence, glued to the roof and cannot blow off or move.


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Old 05-31-08, 10:23 PM   #56
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Okay, I think I'll need a picture to completely understand this or I'll need to take mine apart. But right now, I'll just let it go till the day comes where I need to know.


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Old 06-01-08, 02:01 PM   #57
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hoser look at my first picture up there. See the rubber cover? The end which is more towards the right side of the picture is towards the front of my cruiser. So imagine about an inch or two in front of where my rack mount goes through the rubber forward, as being without that aluminum strip under there. The rubber piece covers this gap.


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Old 06-02-08, 10:13 AM   #58
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hoser look at my first picture up there. See the rubber cover? The end which is more towards the right side of the picture is towards the front of my cruiser. So imagine about an inch or two in front of where my rack mount goes through the rubber forward, as being without that aluminum strip under there. The rubber piece covers this gap.
Doesn't your front mounting point look the same as the pic below? Maybe the newer 03+ 100's are different. If it is the same, you can buy a cover that fills this void.
Attached Images
 


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