DIY oil change questions

[ictcruiser]

Ok, I'm a bit of a DIYer and would like to change the oil in my cruiser. I have searched but have not found a list of needed tools or instructions to do so. Anybody have an idiot's guide to DIY Landcruiser oil changes?

I know that I need:

1. Large oil drain pan(have this allready.....will accomodate 15 quarts)
2. 8 quarts of Mobile 1 5-30
3. Oil filter

Anything else I'm missing? Toyota specific tools? Does anyone have a link to or can copy and paste step by step instructions on how to do it?

[Landpimp]

12mm(might be 10) socket for the metal oil filter access.

philips screw driver for the plastic oil pan/drain access, or a 8mm I think

14mm? (I forget, got to many different sizes on the other cruiers) for the drain. an extension is needed to reach the drain I recall.

I would sudjest a new drain plug gasket(toyota)

oil filter wrench, I like the snap on version, but I think a normal one will work.

and if your like me.........a diet so my fat ass can squeeze under a stock LC with running boards to get to the oil drain (found out the LX470 suspension is quite handy for this though) on the LC I had to install a Slee suspension so I could drain the oil............what a bummer

I prefer OEM or Wix filters

John

[DMX84]

Note: Napa Gold filters are made by WIX.

[ictcruiser]

Thanks!

I had forgotten about getting a new drain plug gasket. Excellent advice!

I'll do the "slide" test over the weekend to see if a diet is in order.

[hoser]

Speaking of oil changes--I was talking to my Supra buddy and he mentioned how the guys on the Supra forums are using Lexus oil filters--in particular, the GS400 filter (and probably others). The ones I have now are made in Thailand and only cost $4-6. The ones in following URL seem to be of high quality--of course at a higher price ($8-10 and made in the Japan). I have not had a chance to cut apart my OEM filter to compare though. I'd like to see if this filter fits our 100's.

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/par...ter/index.html

[hoser]

For most my cars, I use an oil extractor. One drawback is that it doesn't have enough capacity to drain all 7 or 8 quarts and the oil should be warmed up otherwise it can be slow. On the upside, you don't need to replace the drain plug gasket.

Similiar to this one:
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=10122

[calamaridog]

WIX mfg. a great filter but if you are doing an extended drain interval with Mobil 1 oil then spend the extra money and get the Mobil 1 filter also. The Mobil 1 oil filter is one of the best.

I'm planning a 10,000 mi. drain interval with the M1-209 filter which is slightly larger than the one specified for the 4.7V8. The M1-209 has the same specifications except for being larger.

I have always used WIX filters with regular 3,000 mi. drain intervals and regular oil and I know they are very good for that application.

[NMuzj100]

Originally Posted by hoser

Speaking of oil changes--I was talking to my Supra buddy and he mentioned how the guys on the Supra forums are using Lexus oil filters--in particular, the GS400 filter (and probably others). The ones I have now are made in Thailand and only cost $4-6. The ones in following URL seem to be of high quality--of course at a higher price ($8-10 and made in the Japan). I have not had a chance to cut apart my OEM filter to compare though. I'd like to see if this filter fits our 100's.

These made in Japan foam block filters are superior and also not available at any price for the most part. Cdan has said that he had a private stash box and could get no more. You do get one with each new cruiser from Japan so if you just want to tear one apart offer to do the first oil change on a new 100 or buy a 2uz crate engine.

Both the newer Thailand OEM filters and the WIX are great filters.

For all lube,oil and filter ?s www.bobistheoilguy.com can't be beat. Lots of used oil analysis on the 4.7L. Mostly a waste of time because the engine gets great wear numbers and is easy on even the cheapest oils.

One problem I had changing the oil for the first time is that the OEM filters are a much different size can than the standard filter (say Wix) for the 4.7L so make sure you size your filter wrench for the size on the truck not the new filter in the box if it is different. I had to go back to the parts store for a new filter wrench first oil change since it was almost welded in there by some dealer gorilla.

Take the 8mm nutdriver under the truck with you. Much easier to take off the covers with it then a flat-head screwdriver.

New gasket is cheap and well worth it. A good parts department will comp you one when you by something else.

[Greg B]

Great info guys, sometimes even the most basic of maintenance needs going over. I'm about to do my first oil change and didn't realize there was an access panel in the skid plate. I'm sure that would have had me scratching my head for a few minutes. I probably would have had to actually read the manual. Thanks for the heads up.

[Landpimp]

2 access panels, one for the filter(that the metal one) and one for the drain(thats the plastic one)

and do to some kind ih8mud member I have a box of those Japanese OEM filters

and I like the snap on wrench as it fits any size filter.

Originally Posted by Greg B

Great info guys, sometimes even the most basic of maintenance needs going over. I'm about to do my first oil change and didn't realize there was an access panel in the skid plate. I'm sure that would have had me scratching my head for a few minutes. I probably would have had to actually read the manual. Thanks for the heads up.

[Glockenspiel]

Originally Posted by Landpimp

and do to some kind ih8mud member I have a box of those Japanese OEM filters

call me kind.

thanks for the oil change reminder. as if the blinking light wasn't enough...

--
patrick

[Landpimp]

you be kind

what light ?

Originally Posted by Glockenspiel

call me kind.

thanks for the oil change reminder. as if the blinking light wasn't enough...

--
patrick

[Glockenspiel]

Originally Posted by Landpimp

what light ?

on my 2004 there is a damn maintenance required light on the dash that starts blinking at 4500 miles and goes solid at 5000 intervals. you've got to reset with a odometer button press while turning the key or something like that.

--
patrick

[Landpimp]

interesting.

I thought you sold your Cruiser...............hope you don't want those filters back

Originally Posted by Glockenspiel

on my 2004 there is a damn maintenance required light on the dash that starts blinking at 4500 miles and goes solid at 5000 intervals. you've got to reset with a odometer button press while turning the key or something like that.

--
patrick

[Glockenspiel]

Originally Posted by Landpimp

interesting.

I thought you sold your Cruiser...............hope you don't want those filters back

nay. sold my Tundra to get the Cruiser. i had the case of filters left over from the Tundra. although i do miss the Tundra some times... you can keep the filters.

sorry, hijacking the thread. done now. thanks.

--
patrick

[jp213a]

For DIY oil changes, the FRAM Sure Drain makes the job a lot less messy. The cost is around $12-13 at most auto parts stores. The part number that fits the 2UZ-FE engine drain plug thread is SD-3. For more details: http://www.autobarn.net/frasdseries.html

[e9999]

Originally Posted by jp213a

For DIY oil changes, the FRAM Sure Drain makes the job a lot less messy. The cost is around $12-13 at most auto parts stores. The part number that fits the 2UZ-FE engine drain plug thread is SD-3. For more details: http://www.autobarn.net/frasdseries.html

don't know about this one, but in general I'd rather not have anything under there that has some sort of opening where fluid could go out unexpectedly...

[NMuzj100]

For a drain valve this may be a better system.

http://www.fumotovalve.com/

A lot of guys on BITOG swear by them. Makes getting that UOA sample easier.

[e9999]

let's not forget that some here may end up dragging their bellies over rocks someday. You don't want things to protrude too much I would think, even with skids...

[Travis351]

There is no mention of drain plug torque values on here. My 1999 FSM reads 29 ft lbs.

[grimmcruiser]

What I want to know is how to get the filter off the thread and out of the hole in the skid plate without dumping oil everywhere! I just finished an oil change a couple of days ago, and I am better at this than when I started, but it still makes a mess! BTW, to lube the drive line etc, you have to drop the whole "skid" plate in front. Since the PO ruined the bolts in the drain access plate, I get to do this each time!

[CrusrDug]

Originally Posted by grimmcruiser

What I want to know is how to get the filter off the thread and out of the hole in the skid plate without dumping oil everywhere!

Very slowly! I had oil everywhere the first time. Figured I would twist really fast and catch most of it before it got too bad.....Now I twist until it slowly starts to run down the filter and right into the pan on the floor. That little metal tab catches and diverts the oil. About this time grab the beverage of choice and enjoy 1/2. Then go give it another twist. Finish the beverage then go finish the job.

[grimmcruiser]

Originally Posted by CrusrDug

Very slowly! I had oil everywhere the first time. Figured I would twist really fast and catch most of it before it got too bad.....Now I twist until it slowly starts to run down the filter and right into the pan on the floor. That little metal tab catches and diverts the oil. About this time grab the beverage of choice and enjoy 1/2. Then go give it another twist. Finish the beverage then go finish the job.

Aha! I have been trying the quicker is better approach.

[Trunk Monkey]

Punch a hole in the side of the filter with a screwdriver and let the oil drain for a bit.

[rusty_tlc]

Originally Posted by e9999

let's not forget that some here may end up dragging their bellies over rocks someday. You don't want things to protrude too much I would think, even with skids...

My thought exactly, the plastic belly pan is not a skid plate. As far as I can see all it does is keep debris out and maybe help with smoothing the airflow under the rig. It offers NO protection.

I could see one of those valves snapping off and leaving you in a world of hurt someplace.

[NMuzj100]

Originally Posted by rusty_tlc

My thought exactly, the plastic belly pan is not a skid plate. As far as I can see all it does is keep debris out and maybe help with smoothing the airflow under the rig. It offers NO protection.

I agree it's not a skid plate.

It keeps ice and snow from packing up in the "working bits" up front as well as providing a crumple zone to warn you that you are scraping.

Will it protect the truck from protruding rocks and logs? No. From a small sand/mud/snow ridge that would otherwise bend something. Probably.

[rusty_tlc]

Originally Posted by NMuzj100

I agree it's not a skid plate.

It keeps ice and snow from packing up in the "working bits" up front as well as providing a crumple zone to warn you that you are scraping.

Will it protect the truck from protruding rocks and logs? No. From a small sand/mud/snow ridge that would otherwise bend something. Probably.

I'd call that a maybe, especially if the rig is older like mine. Mine is so brittle I lose part of it every time I drop it to work on the rig.