[hank14]

Ok, I bought 6- 12 oz bottles of Toyota brake fluid and proceeded to flush the brake system, but ran into a few problems.

1. I was going to siphon/draw the fluid out of the reservoir with a syringe, but there are some bevels in there that prevent this. So, I thought I would just flush/bleed the lines.

2. Started with right rear, with assistant on brake pedal, cap on the reservoir, the ignition off. Got about 12 oz clear yellow fluid out- looked good. Checked the reservoir- still above the minimum line.

3. Went to left (driver's side) rear. Same thing, only about 4 oz's came out, fluid condition looked very good, then no more would flush. Repeated by closing valve, re-priming the brake pedal, opened valve. Again, only a small amount of fluid. At that point, I added 12 oz new fluid to reservoir.

4. Right front. pumped and held brake pedal, opened valve, a good squirt of brake fluid came out, clear as a whistle, then nothing. Closed the valve, repeated, and nothing. Turned key to acc (engine off) and tried it again, only getting a small amount of fluid out.

5. Same thing on driver's side front.

The good thing was the fluid appeared good as new. The bad thing was I thought I could run more fluid through it.

Anyone else tried this on a 100 series yet? Any tricks- I didn't know with the brake system the way Shotts described, if something else needed to be done. Also, what about a proportioning and bypass valve like on the 80's? The FSM mentions it, but doesn't say where it is or if it needs to be bled.

[Landpimp]

I suspect the motor needs to be running or the key/power on, otherwise it won't pump the fluid, isn't it a electic drivin pump or something like that? I know its not like a normal car(aka 97 and before cruiser)

So I say try it with the motor running

John

[Jim_Chow]

I would also guess that you'd have to have the engine idling so that electric pump in the master can work. From the previous posts regarding this master, there's a little reserve energy left, enough so the vehicle can come to a safe stop if the engine dies while driving. Just block the wheels to make sure the rig doesn't move when you're underneath and don't touch the exhaust.

[mabrodis]

Engine doesn't have to be running, just put the key to 'ON'. As you flush out fluid you'll hear the electric-hydraulic pump kick on. I was working on a '99 and got the right rear done with lots of fluid out, but then went to the driver's back tire and nothing would come out, then I realized the whole electric pump thingy, just put key to ON and it works fine.

[Jim_Chow]

Just got my '03 FSM's in the mail yesterday and was reading the section on brake bleeding. It seems to say to pump the brake pedal 20+ times, then crack open the bleeder valve (ignition "on"). It also has a bunch of stuff in there if you're using the Toyota ABS actuator tool or Toy/Lex hand tool. With the hand tool, it seems the easiest...select the wheel to bleed, crack the bleeder, then depress and hold the brake pedal. It wasn't clear in the FSM if conventional bleeding is accomplished by the pumping the brake 20+ times and cracking the bleeder, or if this method is to be used in conjunction w/ the Toy/Lex hand tool or Toy ABS actuator. Anyone know or have another interpretation?

It also says that if one pumps the brake pedal 40+ times w/ ignition "off", it'll go soft and throw will be longer, as the pressure in the master cylinder actuator has been relieved. Then turn ignition "on" and the pump should run for 30 sec or so and stop. If it doesn't, there's air in the master (this is what they say to bleed the master). It's all kind of confusing the way it's worded/organized.

[NMuzj100]

Sometimes the translation in the FSMs leaves something to be desired.

Whether the problem happens Engineer -> Tech writer or Japanese -> English is a question I have thought about a couple of times while trying to do something with the FSM.

This front rotor thread also has great brake flushing info

Bleeding ABS systems (from Stoptech)