[Bad azz Cruiser]

I am soon going to be installing the OME lift with the diff. drop from Slee Offroad on my 99 lc. I've heard only positive things and i was just wondering if there were any down falls to this system?

[jjbodean1970]

not any that i've heard

[White Shark]

The gas mileage will suffer when you put on the new Swampers you'll have room for. That, and it will be a tight fit in a 7' tall garage opening with the lift and 35's.

[Bad azz Cruiser]

I also heard that the lift w/tires will affect the speedometer. Is this a big deal?

[jjbodean1970]

only if you start to get speeding tickets cause your speedo will be reading on the low side

[Jukelemon]

Well, here is a thought. I will need some actual data to really make an informed decision but...

The T bars from OME and the factory OE bars have very little difference in terms of weight and diameter/circumfrence. I have heard that they are "way more stout" than the OE bars and that just is not the case. Now, 1-I did not measure them so exacting figures are not at my disposal and 2-I do not know the composition of one over the other i.e. spring rate. But, I wil say that the OME bars, indexed at the same setting as the OE bars, DID NOT yield any significant lift i.e. no 2" change which is inconsistent with a supposed higher spring load. Now again, there might be variables that I am overlooking but side by side and in weight they are very very close. I guess what I am thinking is that maybe the OME bars are built with better quality steel so they are more resilient. Maybe my install was unique? Anyway, the real answer would be to know the spring rate of both. According to my install, they are very similar. This is without any load on the front like a winch or B Bar and perhaps that is where the difference would come in.

So, I would like to see someone reindex, buy new shocks and then see where that lands them. My guess is that you would get the same effect i.e. stiffer ride, better ride and a front lift.

[hank14]

I asked a dealer about this- why the OME t-bars are so much less expensive than any of the previous ones- Powerbars, etc. I was concerned they may have less beefy construction or something. He said they were most likely less expensive due to OME's ability to import them cheaply, or something like that.

Are you dissappointed with your work, Jukelemon? Do you think the rear will make any difference to the front?

[Jukelemon]

Hank:

I am not dissapointed as much as I am confused. The OME T bars, installed at the same OEM index, should have given me the lift. But it did not so I had to reindex them lower (that means little unless you understand the install but essenitally means more preload on the bar) to get the lift. It is counter to what should have happened. In terms of the rear, I like the ride quality now i.e. without doing the rear. I will only be able to tell after I get the rear finished whether or not it was worth it. Since I bought the parts, I am going to do it.

As a side note, I am not into brand names so I am very sceptical when I purchase something that is supposed to do more X and it looks just like the original. Again, I am not going to hold to anything until someone can factually tell me that the spring rates are different between the two. That would be the tell all and would point to another reason as to why I had to reindex lower. Like I said, I would be interested in seeing what a reindexed OE T bar (or cranking them) and OME shocks (n133) would do/feel like.

I wish I had the time to make the comparison or a friend close who would do the above and then drive/wheel the two. Unless you do that, you really never know...I mean really know. I find it hard to believe that the OE T bar cannot take a cranking and hold well under the off roading that most 100 owners are going to do. But, maybe not. Again, need the comparative facts ( : not the marketing hype.

[Landpimp]

IMOP there is no drawbacks to the OME suspension lift on a 100 series, I was very worried as I take clinets out in mine and didn't want to bugger up a nice ride. Well it rides much better, handles better, looks better, no vibrations, ect.

the only draw back is that your CV boots might leak a tiny bit of grease, mine stoped after I did the Slee Diff Drop.

I have not seen the OME t-bars but I KNOW the Slee T-bars(which I used) are MUCH beefier(and heavier) than the stock t-bars. When I did the Slee T-bars the front sat at least 1.5" higher before any adjustments.

As for OME stuff, I have prolly more OME products on my Cruisers then most anyone else, only had one product fail, that was a OME steering damper and they replaced it, they make a great product IMOP and experence, I would not be worried.

John

[Jukelemon]

[QUOTE=

I have not seen the OME t-bars but I KNOW the Slee T-bars(which I used) are MUCH beefier(and heavier) than the stock t-bars. When I did the Slee T-bars the front sat at least 1.5" higher before any adjustments.

John[/QUOTE]
I wish they still made these ( :

[ShottsUZJ100]

Only drawback to lifting the 100 is the reduction of down-travel (droop) and the addition of added up-travel resistance.

The more you raise the front by adjusting the T-bars the less down travel you have.

Also effected is the up-travel spring rate. Because you've reduced the down-travel you've increased the up-travel. This results in far greater spring rate near the top of your travel because you're asking the T-bar to "over twist" itself.

Off road, because it take A LOT of force to stuff the front wheel up in the well, the rear suspension usually picks up the slack. That's why I've been DYING for L-series 100 rear shocks.

[hoser]

Jukelemon, Landpimp or anybody--

Any chance of measuring the diameter (or circumference) of the OME, Slee and Stock Torsion bars? If we measure the length, we should be able to get an idea of the spring rate differences.

[spressomon]

Shotts: What is your choice for T-bars? And why?

[Jukelemon]

[QUOTE=

Also effected is the up-travel spring rate. Because you've reduced the down-travel you've increased the up-travel. This results in far greater spring rate near the top of your travel because you're asking the T-bar to "over twist" itself.

.[/QUOTE]
This is exactly my point. At what point does ANY T bar become so preloaded that its stability is questioned. In theory, X would be the spring rate that would lead to Y lift in inches. The real question is not how big or stout a T bar is but what is their in duty tolerance in terms of sprig rate. In other words if it only takes 200lbs of spring rate to lift AND perform in moderate 4x4 trails, it really does not matter if a T bar is able to give you a range of 0-300 lbs i.e. the more stout the more spring rate. That is why I keep coming back to the question of tolerances for the stock T bar. I am not, at this point, resolved to say that "cranking" a T bar is wrong because cranking is just giving it more spring rate and if the T bar can tolerate it, why switch? The only way a T bar can be better is to be bigger-much bigger so that it can dissipate the energy over more mass. BUT, the spring rate still remains the same X to gain the lift. You just do not need to index them more agressively.

Of course, all of these insights come after the install ( :

And again, I am not knocking OME.

[ShottsUZJ100]

Originally Posted by spressomon

Shotts: What is your choice for T-bars? And why?

My only choice 3-years ago was SwayAWay. They are stiffer. They added about 1/2-3/4 inch (I'd have to check my notes) to the front via spring rate.

The rest of the lift came by TBar adjusting. Then, after Doron designed the diff drop we could re=adjust and fit 35's. 2.75 inches lift.

The front is a tad soft (though that's being REALLY picky). I'd prefer another, oh.....say......10% stiffness.

[Landpimp]

can prolly measure the diameter of the Slee bars and the stock bars, but not the length of the Slee bars because I aint taking em off.

actaully I think Christo told me the difference, the Slee bars being bigger then the OME by a few mm's

Originally Posted by hoser

Jukelemon, Landpimp or anybody--

Any chance of measuring the diameter (or circumference) of the OME, Slee and Stock Torsion bars? If we measure the length, we should be able to get an idea of the spring rate differences.

[Jukelemon]

Sorry, I missed that one. I know the length of the OME and OE bars are identical. They are 1160mm or 45.67". Diameter for the OME is 30.4mm or 1.197". Not sure of the diameter for the OE bars although IO can measure that tonight ( :

As well, OME offers another T bar for their diesel. It is 32.8mm in diam.(1.294") and 1210mm in length (47.64")

From my experience, and if the splines are the same, you could use the diesel T bars i.e. the OME t bars do not go to the ends of the anchor arm and/or torque arm. There is probably 4-5 inches total space (both ends) that is not used.

[ShottsUZJ100]

Sway Away 1661 model. 31mm is my diameter.

[hoser]

Originally Posted by Jukelemon

the OME t bars do not go to the ends of the anchor arm and/or torque arm. There is probably 4-5 inches total space (both ends) that is not used.

Ah, yes, we need the distance between the anchor and the torque arm. I haven't found a 100 (yet) so I don't know what it looks like down there. Oh and we also need the lever arm length (distance from the wheel centerline to the torsion bar).

Or, I guess we could just ask Christo if he knows the rates already.

[Augie]

I am running stock reindexed OEM bars with KYB GR2 shock. I feel they are prety firm and gives pretty good handling. I have no winch bar or winch yet though. My experience with other truck with IFS and OME shock are pretty bad. They are way too soft and cause excessive nose dive under braking. So for anybody that just got OME and they are too soft, ARB usually would allow you to return the shock if it does not suit your use (provided you have't install it that long, still in sellable condition and have all the boxes.

I don't like using stiffer aftermarket bar due to two previous experience with thicker bar that they limit articulation. That it with 87 Toyota Turbo and 95 Mistsubishi Montero. Again no first hand experience with 100 series aftermarket torsion bar.

I have OME rear shock and comfort coils and the shock are way too soft for my taste, the spring are great though. The only reason I got OME are because they are the only bolt on shock that give 1" longer travel needed by the lift.

I don't think you could use 32 mm bar from the diesel. They have shorter length because the
transmison cross member sit at slightly different location.

[ShottsUZJ100]

Front dive (off road, dropping down rocks and ledges) is well controlled with the OME N133 shock on the 100. As for braking? VERY little dive and thats with my accessorized truck.

[calamaridog]

Shotts,

You don't need stiffer spring rates, you need firmer shocks!

In my experience with OME, the springs are very good and the shocks are not. Yes, I know many of you run them, and I don't want to argue about it

The prospect of 5100 Bilsteins for our 1-2" lift 100 series is very exciting!

[calamaridog]

Originally Posted by ShottsUZJ100

31mm is my diameter.

Didn't need to know that!

[Jukelemon]

Originally Posted by Augie

I don't think you could use 32 mm bar from the diesel. They have shorter length because the
transmison cross member sit at slightly different location.

Aug:

The diesel T bars are longer not shorter.

[shocker]

Originally Posted by Jukelemon

Aug:

The diesel T bars are longer not shorter.

The question would be if the added length comes from longer spline areas or a longer neck.

As you said, as long as the splines themselves are the same, the petrol 100 series has enough additional room to accomodate a longer splines, but not a longer neck.

I'm pretty sure it is the splines, though, because a longer neck would necessitate the crossmemeber to be further back on a diesel, and I'm not sure why they would do that.

[Landpimp]

Christo said they would not work on the US spec 100's.

Oddly ARB USA stocks them..............prolly for the NON US 100's that are converted/armored in the US and sent to the middle east.

Originally Posted by shocker

The question would be if the added length comes from longer spline areas or a longer neck.

As you said, as long as the splines themselves are the same, the petrol 100 series has enough additional room to accomodate a longer splines, but not a longer neck.

I'm pretty sure it is the splines, though, because a longer neck would necessitate the crossmemeber to be further back on a diesel, and I'm not sure why they would do that.

[sleeoffroad]

Jukelemon,

I am not sure what happened on yours. In all the cases where we have installed the OME torsion bars, we gained lift for the same adjuster location.

As for Slee torsion bars, we can still get them, however the cost was a lot higher than OME, so we were not sure if they would still sell.

oem Torsion bar thickness 28.87mm
OME Torions bar's 30.5
Slee 31mm (have to check specs on this)

[Jukelemon]

Slee:

Do not know either. I followed the directions very carefully. But with your measurements above, it is certainly clear there is a difference between the bars. BUT, does that difference really matter for non front loaded i.e. winch, etc.. 100 series? Since the T bars have a very linear design i.e. every twist of that adjuster should yield a pretty contant x in terms of spring. Spring load is measured in lbs/inch so I am not sure how that relates to a cylinder but it should be linear like a spring pack. So, the question still remains...does the OE bars have the tinsel (sp?) strength to take the lift, perform and wear well.

The T bar crankers will have to chime in an about 5 years to let us know ( :

[shocker]

Historically, tortion bars actually sag and wear less over time than do coil springs.

Witness all the early 90's 4Runners, lifted or stock, with the saggy tails.

[ShottsUZJ100]

Originally Posted by calamaridog

Didn't need to know that!

BAD BOY!