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Old 02-14-05, 07:30 AM   #1
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Master Key Identification- Help Please!

I have read through the multiple threads on here regarding master key issues. I have one simple question which I cannot find the answer to. If I have a key, how can I tell if it's a master?
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Old 02-14-05, 07:56 AM   #2
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If it's a key that works in the ignition and has the remote door lock/unlock and panic buttons. The non-master kets are valet keys.

The only other tricky thing about it is that you can only have 7 master keys and 3 sub keys (valet) programmed at any one time.


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Old 02-14-05, 09:18 AM   #3
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So all keyfob keys are master keys? I was under the impression that there are some keyfob keys that are not master keys (?) Is my head up my arse?

The deal is my cousin just bought a nice 00' and it only came with 1 key, which is a Keyfob type- No valet key. Im trying to confirm if that keyfob key is her master key- If all keyfobs are indeed master keys, then she should be good to go - Is this correct?

Thanks for the help!
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Old 02-14-05, 10:00 AM   #4
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So, if I've got two "push button keys", and one valet key, I've got two masters? I was under the impression there was only one master, and like gopriest31, I was wondering how to tell which one it was.


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Old 02-15-05, 11:02 AM   #5
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My brother-in-law is a locksmith, and when I bought my 01 last month, he warned of this problem. There is a simple way to tell which of your keys are master keys. Here's how:

With the engine off and no key in the ignition you will see a light on your dash for the security system. Mine is on the bottom of the center dash below the nav system. Insert a key into the ignition, you should see this light go off. If it does, it's a master key. I have one key with remote buttons and one key without remote buttons. They are both master keys. If you only have one master key, I would get another master made immediately. It is very expensive if you don't have a master key at all.


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Old 02-15-05, 12:36 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg B
With the engine off and no key in the ignition you will see a light on your dash for the security system. Mine is on the bottom of the center dash below the nav system. Insert a key into the ignition, you should see this light go off. If it does, it's a master key.
Uh, no.
That security light is your immobilizer. If the valet/master key has the right transponder, that light will go off and the engine will run. If that light stays lit, you are staying put.

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Old 02-15-05, 12:52 PM   #7
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You should be able to determine what is or is not a master key, valet key, etc. by checking the owner's manual...at least that was the case with my 80.


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Old 02-15-05, 01:25 PM   #8
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Uh, no.
That security light is your immobilizer. If the valet/master key has the right transponder, that light will go off and the engine will run. If that light stays lit, you are staying put.

LT

Hmmm, sorry for the bad info. That was the way my brother-in-law explained it to me. Either that, or I mis-understood what he was saying. I'll have him look into it for me again tonight and post what I find out tomorrow.


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Old 02-15-05, 01:28 PM   #9
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Also, I went out to my LC and got out the owner's manual. On page 10, it says that the Master key is black and unlocks the glove compartment. The Sub key (Valet) is gray and does not unlock the glove compartment. Both of my keys are black and unlock the g.c. even though one has remote and one doesn't.


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Old 02-15-05, 01:43 PM   #10
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I must admit I haven't read my owner's manual in a while. However, I've got two black keys with buttons, and one gray one (valet). As far as I can tell, the two black button keys are identical.


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Old 02-15-05, 02:03 PM   #11
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On some models, the head of the key will be a different shape as well...just something to note.


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Old 02-15-05, 02:27 PM   #12
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you can make a non-master key a master key, it has to do with programming the chip inside the key. you should keep more than one master key, cause if you lose the only master key, you are basically screwed and have to buy a new computer and keys for your vehicle.


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Old 02-15-05, 03:26 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg B
My brother-in-law is a locksmith, and when I bought my 01 last month, he warned of this problem. There is a simple way to tell which of your keys are master keys. Here's how:

With the engine off and no key in the ignition you will see a light on your dash for the security system. Mine is on the bottom of the center dash below the nav system. Insert a key into the ignition, you should see this light go off. If it does, it's a master key. I have one key with remote buttons and one key without remote buttons. They are both master keys. If you only have one master key, I would get another master made immediately. It is very expensive if you don't have a master key at all.
I believe that Greg B is right, just missing one small bit of the puzzle, which I just found out. A Master key will shut off the security light immediately when inserted into the ignition- If inserting a non master, or sub key, The light will stay on for ~ 1 second after the key is inserted, then go out.

Of course, a bad key will do nothing and initiate the immobilizer

Both the grey valet keys and the black fob/transmitter keys can be programmed to be master or sub keys.

Luckily, both my cousin's 00' and my 98' both came with 1 master key, mine also came with a sub key and a valet- Time to get a back up!!!

I confirmed this check method myself last night-
Thanks for everyone's help!
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Old 02-15-05, 09:25 PM   #14
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"Master keys are identified with a simple test. You can test whether or not you have a Master key by watching the Security light as you insert your key into the ignition. If the Security light turns off immediately after insertion of the key, it is a Master key. If the security light stays solid for a few seconds after insertion of the key, it is a Valet key."

...from STREET KEYS programming instructions...


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Old 02-16-05, 06:50 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calamaridog
"Master keys are identified with a simple test. You can test whether or not you have a Master key by watching the Security light as you insert your key into the ignition. If the Security light turns off immediately after insertion of the key, it is a Master key. If the security light stays solid for a few seconds after insertion of the key, it is a Valet key."

...from STREET KEYS programming instructions...

Thanks for the clarification. My wife would love this thread, because once again it proves that I don't pay enough attention to people. My brother-in-law probably showed me that time delay and I just didn't pay enough attention to him.

Hey Mod, could this thread be added to the FAQ section?


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Old 02-16-05, 11:59 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calamaridog
"Master keys are identified with a simple test. You can test whether or not you have a Master key by watching the Security light as you insert your key into the ignition. If the Security light turns off immediately after insertion of the key, it is a Master key. If the security light stays solid for a few seconds after insertion of the key, it is a Valet key."

...from STREET KEYS programming instructions...

Uhh, I don't know about your Security light, but mine blinks about once every second, and simply stops blinking when I insert a programmed key.

In other words. I see no difference whatsoever in the behavior of the security light when I insert a master (black key with buttons) or a valet (gray key without buttons).

Maybe I'm just too thick to understand this thread.

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Old 02-16-05, 12:50 PM   #17
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I could kill the bastard who made this key issue so complicated in the first place...

We waste far too much time on this when we should be talking about lockers and tyres and such.


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Old 02-16-05, 12:52 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ELLTEE
Uhh, I don't know about your Security light, but mine blinks about once every second, and simply stops blinking when I insert a programmed key.

LT
LT,
Go one step further. Before you insert the key, hit the lock button on your remote while you are in the vehicle. The light will stop blinking and stay lit all the time. Then follow Calamaidog's instructions from there. I just went out and checked and that is how my 01 works.


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Old 02-16-05, 01:14 PM   #19
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Quote:
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I could kill the bastard who made this key issue so complicated in the first place...

We waste far too much time on this when we should be talking about lockers and tyres and such.
Misdirected blame, IMO.

Blame the thieves for getting more and more clever...if not for them, we wouldn't need such complexity.

The comments about converting a valet key into a master key are only partially correct. The keys are cut differently to prevent access to the glove box (and I believe the cargo area lock). Any kind of code manipulation or chip insertion will not change the fact that the cut is different.


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Old 02-17-05, 07:03 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg B
LT,
Go one step further. Before you insert the key, hit the lock button on your remote while you are in the vehicle. The light will stop blinking and stay lit all the time. Then follow Calamaidog's instructions from there. I just went out and checked and that is how my 01 works.
Thanks, Greg, but still no joy. My '99 100 security light (the little outline of an auto on the dash below the radio) blinks about once a second when the key is removed from the ignition regardless of whether the doors are locked or not.
When I insert a black key with buttons or a gray key without buttons, the light goes out immediately (as far as I can tell).

The truck came with two black keys with buttons (actually, one is a Lexus key head that the Lx dealership used to replace a cracked key head with the Toy emblem. They just transfered the electronic contents of the key head and the key itself into the LX shell.). As part of the purchase price, the LX dealership paid for me to get a valet key and have it programmed at a Toy dealership. It's possible they programmed the gray valet key as a master, and I would like to know, but I don't see any way to check except to take it back to a dealership.

LT

(still too thick for this thread)


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Old 02-17-05, 07:54 AM   #21
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LT,
Man, I give up on you. Every time I think I have this figured out you go and throw a wrench into the works. Unfortunately, I think I am too thick for this thread too!
GB


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Old 02-17-05, 11:12 AM   #22
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Greg -
Hurray! A sharp drill came make it through even the thickest board (member!).

I reread the post and used the remote to trigger the lock, and the security light DID stay on constant. However, the grey valet key and the black master key BOTH cut the light off immediately -- in fact the light goes off as soon as the key tip is inserted in to the lock.

So, if this does indeed work for you guys, that means I have a "master" Valet key. Right?

thanks
LT

Yahoo! Glad to hear it does work then. Looking back at one of your posts, it looks like someone programmed your valet key to be a master. Unfortunately, I don't have a valet key to verify this. Does anyone have a regular valet key that they could check to see how long the light stays on? If we can get it confirmed then we can summarize the steps in one post for people to use to test their keys with.


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Old 02-17-05, 12:42 PM   #23
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This key thing IS confusing, I thought I had a grasp and now think that I have a "master" valet key. Thanks for the info on the "test", and then there is this!

http://news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=stor...pcworld/119661
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Old 02-17-05, 05:10 PM   #24
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OK, one last attempt to make this clear based on what I've learned- hope this helps!!!

ALL KEYS can be "master" or "sub" keys- this is dependent on the way each is programmed.

GREY NON TRANSMITTER KEYS: These are reffered to as "valet" because they can only access certain MECHANICAL functions, that meaning they are different by the way that the profile on the steel shank of the key is cut, to keep johnny acne face valet driver from riffling though the stuff in your glovebox! (like he'd want to steal my owners manual!!!)

ELECTRONICALLY These can be programmed as masters or as sub keys!!!

BLACK TRANSMITTER KEYS: MECHANICALLY, these, assuming they are cut the way they are supposed to be cut from Toyota, can open any mechanical lock on the vehicle.

ELECTRONICALLY These can also be MASTER or SUB keys depending on how they are programmed. The easiest way to tell is to insert the key into the ignition

TEST METHOD FOR ALL KEYS

RED SECURITY LIGHT OUT IMMEDIATELY: Master Key- Bonus!!

RED SECURITY LIGHT STAYS ON FOR ~ 1 SECOND AFTER INSERTING: You've got a sub key, hope for your sake that you have a master somewhere! Or, hopefully, your vehicle hasnt had the TOYOTA "goodwill" EG ECU replacement done yet- It is apparently tracked by VIN, not by owner, and its a one shot deal- They'll only do it one time per VIN, after that - you pay the big dough!

Best of luck to all affected by this - what a freakin nightmare!!!
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Old 02-18-05, 02:44 AM   #25
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Good summary. Some or all of this needs to go into the FAQ.


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Old 02-18-05, 06:52 AM   #26
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It appears that I may have actually added something of value to this board!

With that, what do I have to do to shed my rookie status! haha
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Old 05-04-05, 06:27 AM   #27
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Toyota screwed up by making the key thing too complicated. My Ford has a chip too but they don't have Master and sub keys, just masters. And why require the master to program? Why not just keep the code on file by VIN number and make them from that. Sure, a valet could steal your key, make a copy with a hidden programmer in his valet shack. But is that really likely? These are Toyotas, not Bentleys.