Cv-boots - Page 2

i4c4lo · 01-12-06, 12:15 PM

Tinkerer,

Where did you buy the $20 special clamp-tightening tool? Thanks.

hoser · 01-12-06, 08:38 PM

I bought my CV joint clamp tool from Kragens for like $12. It works well enough for the job. The important part is the CV clamp. Kragens had crappy skinny ones that kinda worked like a zip tie. I bought better quality ones at Bap Imports. These ones were wide as stock and folded back on itself and then clamped down (if that makes sense).

i4c4lo · 01-12-06, 09:09 PM

hoser,

Thanks! I have a set of extra used CV's I got from Mudrak, I was going to rebuild those - I got the CV rebuild kit from the dealer - put those in the truck and have the ones that came with the truck as spares - I will rebuild those too and will be carrying them on trips just in case. I will be going to kragen's tomorrow.

hoser · 01-13-06, 12:53 AM

i4c4lo, the tool was behind the counter. I asked one salesperson, he didn't know what I was talking about. Another salesperson over heard me asking and he found it.

I'm not exactly sure how the OEM clamp fastens though. I just carefully cut it off and threw it away.

Tinkerer · 01-13-06, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by i4c4lo

Tinkerer,

Where did you buy the $20 special clamp-tightening tool? Thanks.

Can't remember...same Mom & Pop parts store where I bought the clamps.

The clamps were nearly identical to the OEM clamps. Stainless steel band, looped twice (concentric loops) with both loops threaded through a simple "eye" formed of tabs attached to base band inner loop.

Tool use: You "thread" the projecting loose end of the band thru a slot in a turn shaft, slide the tool up the band to the clamp "eye", then turn the shaft, winding to pull the band tight. The clamp has enough friction between the 2 concentric band loops plus the "eye" to retain the tension pulled by the tool. When the clamp is tight enough, remove the tool and cut the loose end of the band near the clamp "eye", then fold the remaining stub of the band over the "eye".

Looks just like OEM when done.

Hardest part about the job was finding a parts store that knew was I was looking for.

BTW, I also thought about using a plain vanilla hose clamp - but decided NOT to because of (1) rotating imbalance possibility due to hose clamp screw & body, (2) damage/loss possibility due to projecting hose clamp screw/body hitting something and maybe breaking off while rotating. The OEM type clamp is very slim, very low-profile, very light, and reliable (unless it is not quite tight enough at installation).

rockclmbr · 02-14-06, 05:18 PM

After lifting the front of the 100 series approx 1.75", the passenger CV boot started to leak and sprayed a thin film of grease all over. I wiped it down the other day and installed an off-the-shelf hose clamp directly over the existing cv clamp. I used extra caution not to make contact between the clamp edge and the rubber boot that started to change angle, otherwise theis may eventually cut into it.

So far so good <200mi. No leaks. However I'm a little concerned if this may loosen up over time and cause damage, or will the screw hanging off one side cause an imbalance similar to an un-balanced driveshaft?

mobi-arc · 02-14-06, 06:17 PM

How many miles on the truck when you raised it?

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockclmbr

After lifting the front of the 100 series approx 1.75", the passenger CV boot started to leak and sprayed a thin film of grease all over. I wiped it down the other day and installed an off-the-shelf hose clamp directly over the existing cv clamp. I used extra caution not to make contact between the clamp edge and the rubber boot that started to change angle, otherwise theis may eventually cut into it.

So far so good <200mi. No leaks. However I'm a little concerned if this may loosen up over time and cause damage, or will the screw hanging off one side cause an imbalance similar to an un-balanced driveshaft?

rockclmbr · 02-15-06, 06:29 PM

There were approx 86,000 miles on the vehicle when it was raised.

mobi-arc · 02-15-06, 06:47 PM

I would argue that at 86,000, the boots were brittle and once the suspension was lifted, the leaks/cracks develop on tired boots. I had over 100,000 miles, did the lift, boots started to leak so we swapped the boots for new. I now have about 125,000 miles with no leaks. If they start to leak shy of 200,000 miles, then I would agree that the more severe angle due to the lift causes greater wear. If at 200,000 the boots aren't leaking, I think I would conclude that the diff drop modification will extend CV boot lifespan on boots that are worn and less pliable.

Rich · 02-21-06, 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockclmbr

...will the screw hanging off one side cause an imbalance similar to an un-balanced driveshaft?

The simple solution to the balance problem is to use two hose clamps, each half as long as the one your are currently using. Thread them together into one longer clamp. Tighten evenly so screws are opposite each other. Balance simply achieved.

rockclmbr · 02-22-06, 12:48 PM

So far no issues with over 300 miles on them. I frequently check them for looseness and the clamps remain tight! No vibrations or other sounds reported. I like your idea on using two to oppose each other though.

osomoso · 01-21-07, 12:34 PM

I came here on an issue from Clublexus and you guys are a great help with weenies like me, who's not off road and not very mechanical. Just mechanical enough to get myself into trouble usually. I have a general idea and know how stuff works, but have no garage space or time to do alot of my own work.

I have a regular mechanic that works on all my cars and is what I feel is honest with me. I have gone and got second opinions on certain things, and they all have been true. You understand, when your like me. I just have to make sure I can really trust someone.

Anyway, I got under my LX today and looke. The inner boot on the passenger side is leaking on the outside clamp. The boot looks fine, no cracks or tears. The CV joint is not making any noise. When I was a kid I had a Subaru. If you ever owned one, you will know what a cv joint sounds like. My LX has 100,260 miles on it. I expect some things to break. If you don't then your living in a vaccum.

Any way thanks. Any more advice or help is greatly appreciated!

Darren Stiff
auteeth@yahoo.com

mmaakk · 01-21-07, 02:15 PM

I used a small hose clamp for a while when mine leaked, it worked well until I found the time to repair it.

DMX84 · 01-21-07, 05:22 PM

Welcome from New Mexico! Lots of good info on this site & You’ll enjoy it here.
DMX

Jim_Chow · 01-21-07, 11:57 PM

I have the first signs of seepage at 57.5K mi. I was thinking it was from raising the AHC to high/low, etc. Tech said the clamp should be tight enough that the end of the boot doesn't slide on the shaft. Told me the factory ones are preset in tension and tend to be looser than what you can achieve w/ the OEM reboot kit. Anyways, if you're getting some seepage, which is expected after 60K mi, just monitor it. If it gets bad, then have it rebooted.

Tinkerer · 01-22-07, 04:02 AM

I'd fix the leaks asap. CV Joints are definitely something where "an ounce of prevention is worth more than a pound of cure". Loss of grease and contamination are factors in early failure.

My inner boots leaked at ~60k, due to OEM clamps not tight enough (or boot material shrinkage/compression over time). I fixed the problem as soon as I noticed it, and it is still leak-free now at 104k. There was no need to add grease because I fixed the leaks quickly, before losing much grease.

If your boots are still in good condition, replacing the OEM clamps with new OEM-type clamps is fairly simple & cheap. I used stainless BAND-IT clamps and special tool made by KD Tools (#3191). Total cost about $30 for 2 clamp replacements ($5 each for clamps, $20 for tool).

You can tighten the BAND-IT clamps as needed to achieve a nice leak-free result. (No rebooting required if boots are OK.)

Jim_Chow · 01-22-07, 01:07 PM

Here's a link depicting the installation:
http://www.band-it-idex.com/pdfs/tools/P91787.pdf

What size of band did you use? The double loop or do they come in one length only and you manually loop it twice? It sounds like the band slides into the slot on the mandrel and the band coils up on that mandrel like opening a can of spam? Do you get it as tight as you can or reasonably tight?

Tinkerer · 01-22-07, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim_Chow

Here's a link depicting the installation:
http://www.band-it-idex.com/pdfs/tools/P91787.pdf

What size of band did you use? The double loop or do they come in one length only and you manually loop it twice? It sounds like the band slides into the slot on the mandrel and the band coils up on that mandrel like opening a can of spam? Do you get it as tight as you can or reasonably tight?

I measured the diameter of the leaky boot clamp area and width of original clamp, then selected the suitable size clamp (slightly larger than the target diameter and ~same width as original clamp). Clamp was double loop, pre-looped. You un-loop it, then re-double-loop it around the boot clamp area, threading back through the clamp "buckle". Your description of tool operation is correct. How tight? "Just-so" (If you tightened as much as you could with the tool, it would be overtight and probably cut through the CV boot.)

By the way, that linked BAND-IT instruction is not exactly correct - unless you want to leave the long "tail" in place. I cut my "tail" short and folded back over the "buckle", just like the original.

Jim_Chow · 01-22-07, 06:10 PM

So who carries these band-it bands? I can find the band tools all over the web, but not the bands.

Tinkerer · 01-23-07, 04:55 AM

I bought the clamps and the tool at a local (independent) auto parts store.

I just called around & asked for CV boot type clamps - they knew what I needed.

There's probably other brands besides BAND-IT that are similar. (The BAND-IT looks almost identical to the OEM clamp, but patent law allows very similar products with slight differences.)