[jgolden]

I'm in the process of lifting my truck and I've made the last minute decision to regear it and maybe add lockers. I plan to run a 34" tire, so either 4.56 or 4.88 will be my best bet.

I have 2 questions...

1. Who is the actual manufacture of the gears and where is the best place to buy them in Southern California? I spoke to the guys at Just Diffs, but I always like to check with at least 2 companies before I buy something.
2. If I only regear it now, and plan to add lockers later, do I end up buying anything twice? In the long run, is it cheaper to do it all at once (not including the Labor of course)

thanks
James

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by jgolden

I'm in the process of lifting my truck and I've made the last minute decision to regear it and maybe add lockers. I plan to run a 34" tire, so either 4.56 or 4.88 will be my best bet.

I have 2 questions...

1. Who is the actual manufacture of the gears and where is the best place to buy them in Southern California? I spoke to the guys at Just Diffs, but I always like to check with at least 2 companies before I buy something.
2. If I only regear it now, and plan to add lockers later, do I end up buying anything twice? In the long run, is it cheaper to do it all at once (not including the Labor of course)

thanks
James

Can't answer the question about gears but I believe there are only 2-3 actual manufacturers of gear sets for LC's. I couldn't tell you which if any is better quality. However Carl and/or Christo should be able to provide you with this type of information.

If you are planning bumpers, winch, drawers, overlanding gear, trailer, etc. go 4.88's. I have a '99 with 4.88's and wish I would have gone 5.29's all things being equal (mostly when pulling the trailer). However if you have an '03+ 4.88's would be a great choice for 34"/35" assuming you are going to be adding weight to your rig. FYI: '98-'02 came with 4.30 R&P; '03+ comes with 4.10 R&P.

Do it all at the same time to save: Labor, bearing/seal/gasket costs.

[LandCruisers4Life]

X2 On Spressos comments. Get it all done at once, get the grunt you need from the gearing for larger tires, and the strength from the ARB air locker set up. Carl or Christo are your men. Can't lose. Also check out the heavier duty UCAs from Carl while you're at it.

[jgolden]

Thanks guys. I'm thinking about building a trailer so 4.88's will be the way to go.
I actually already bought the UCA's from Carl. Excited to get them on!!!!

Have you guys had good luck with your ARB lockers? Any issues?

jg

[SR.GRINGO]

When I bought my gears for the 80 I did a bit of research. The strongest are supposed to be Reider. Have been running them for at least 3 years with 315's..
If I end up with a 100 I will go Reider again.

REIDER RACING

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by jgolden

Thanks guys. I'm thinking about building a trailer so 4.88's will be the way to go.
I actually already bought the UCA's from Carl. Excited to get them on!!!!

Have you guys had good luck with your ARB lockers? Any issues?

jg

I rely on my ARB front locker often...it has performed without issue. In fact some day I'll have an '06 or '07 to mod and I look forward to having an ARB locker in the rear too! The OEM e-locker is OK...but the ARB locks almost instantaneously after you flip the switch and unlocks as quickly.

Maybe as important as who makes the gears: Have someone that is very experienced with off-road diff set-up do the R&P set-up. While you're doing the diff work it would be a good time to extend the diff/t-case and tranny breathers.

And if you are worried about strength for whatever reason you can have whichever R&P gears you select cryo'd for that extra layer of assurance. Personally I think it is overkill on a hundy...

And be sure to follow a break-in conditioning process for your new gears once you get them...just in case you don't know.

[jgolden]

Originally Posted by spressomon

I rely on my ARB front locker often...it has performed without issue. In fact some day I'll have an '06 or '07 to mod and I look forward to having an ARB locker in the rear too! The OEM e-locker is OK...but the ARB locks almost instantaneously after you flip the switch and unlocks as quickly.

Maybe as important as who makes the gears: Have someone that is very experienced with off-road diff set-up do the R&P set-up. While you're doing the diff work it would be a good time to extend the diff/t-case and tranny breathers.

And if you are worried about strength for whatever reason you can have whichever R&P gears you select cryo'd for that extra layer of assurance. Personally I think it is overkill on a hundy...

And be sure to follow a break-in conditioning process for your new gears once you get them...just in case you don't know.

Thanks for all your help. Can you explain the mod of extending the diff/t-case and tranny breathers???

thanks

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by jgolden

Thanks for all your help. Can you explain the mod of extending the diff/t-case and tranny breathers???

thanks

Each diff, the t-case and the tranny have breathers to vent hot gases & pressure difference. They typically only extend about 6-10". So if you cross stream, etc deeper than that the breather will suck water. If you never cross water deeper than your axle then this is probably nothing to spend time and $ on.

On the other hand about ~$40-50 worth of 1/4 fuel line hose or similar, a few tees, a small fuel filter, zip ties and some hose clamps and you can run the lines together and terminate them via the fuel filter at the highest point on the firewall. And there seems to be some debate whether or not the OEM one-way spring loaded valve at the end of each breather hose actually accentuates the issue by not equalizing the pressure in the diff/t-case effectively compared to the fuel filter mod.

The tranny breather is a bit more difficult to access. I still need to extend mine...its "on the list"


If you do a search for "breathers" you'll pull up a number of threads covering the topic.

[fish2live]

I really WANT 4:88's and ARB front and rear as much as anyone. Got a quote from JustDiff (Carl) who is local for me and including install it was about $5K. So, it's not a cheap mod, but man, it sure would be nice. Mine will be next year, or later....

[ringpinion.biz]

I think they are kinda defunct now

Originally Posted by SR.GRINGO

When I bought my gears for the 80 I did a bit of research. The strongest are supposed to be Reider. Have been running them for at least 3 years with 315's..
If I end up with a 100 I will go Reider again.

REIDER RACING

[ringpinion.biz]

Keep in mind that 100 series LC's are not modified often, and most diff shops have never even seen one. Make sure whoever you get a quote from knows what they are quoting and everything is included. We also offer complete assembled 3rd members, which can make things easier for the install.

[ShottsUZJ100]

4Wheel Parts has the free compressor promo going again. The same one I got for both my past upgrades. The same free compressor deal everybody here on MUD including Joe-Australia said didn't exist.

Buy two lockers. Mail-in rebate on the compressor. This might be an ARB promo so you might be able to get it elsewhere as well. Not sure.

[sleeoffroad]

The free compressor was a deal extended to ARB dealers during Sema. 4Wheel parts must be passing it on.

That said. Buy your lockers and gears from the people that are going to install it. Otherwise you end up between two vendors and might have a pissing match on your hands when you have warrantee issues.

[ginericLC]

Originally Posted by SR.GRINGO

When I bought my gears for the 80 I did a bit of research. The strongest are supposed to be Reider. Have been running them for at least 3 years with 315's..
If I end up with a 100 I will go Reider again.

REIDER RACING

I don't believe Reider makes the gears they sell for Land Cruisers. I'm not saying they aren't selling quality parts or their prices aren't great. But I'm pretty sure they aren't cutting their own gears for Cruisers and that you can probably buy the same gearsets somewhere else too.

[ginericLC]

Originally Posted by ShottsUZJ100

That's a totally different topic!

Passing on a free compressor because you've been in a store where the service isn't up to snuff is dumb. A FREE compressor is worth slow service.

For gear set up I wouldn't want to go to a place where their service is not up to snuff or they don't work on my type of vehicle regularly. Seriously, it could be a real PITA to be the guinea pig for their new guy. Yes, it may work out once in awhile but folks also win the lottery once in awhile. I'd rather go with realistic odds. And really the ARB compressor is nothing to brag about anyway. Why pay more for your lockers and gears from 4 Wheel parts to get the free compressor? A smart shopper will find a shop that will do a package price which will most likely trump their piece by piece kit. And I'm not out to bash 4 wheel parts. I think they are perfectly good place to buy something generic like a tow strap or tires.

5k for parts and install, WOW! I knew the parts were expensive. It must be more labor intense than I'm thinking. I've had my ARB front locker sitting on the shelf since April because I don't have anyone local who I trust to set it up. I'm not looking forward to tearing it down. Once I get it all apart I'll take it to Boise to a Toyota specialist to get the gears set up. Then I'll reinstall the whole mess.

[sleeoffroad]

There is the little issue that if you regear with ARB's for the 100, that you have to customise the locker using parts form both the 80 and 100 series locker. However I am sure your trusty 4Wheel Parts Whorehouse 18 year old will be able to read that in the application guide and steer you in the right direction.

$5k is pretty close for parts and labor doing a regear and ARB's with wiring, lights on dash (depending on year) and proper switches etc. There are cheaper ways to do it, depending on how detail oriented the customer is. Also, you have to compare apples with apples regarding what parts are all replaced and what is used in their place, ie carrier bearings, pinion bearings etc etc. Also take into account the new axle tube seals for the front etc.

Most shops will charge a flat rate for this work. Some of it is to carry the warrantee. Last thing you want is to pay cheap and then have issues later with a shop that does not stand behind what they did. Pulling a third member for warrantee is not fun or very profitable. And it does happen.

Also, make sure if you buy parts at a different shop from the install shop that you get the same install rate. Jobs are priced on profit on parts and labor. If you loose the profit on parts, you have to make it up somewhere else.

trying to save $200 for a compressor on this size job is not worth it in the overall scheme of things.

One can also buy complete third member set up, but you have to be careful putting them back in the housings not to damage the copper lines etc.

Gear setup is not rocket science, but there is a certain amount of experience needed. Many guys in 4x4 clubs do this regularly for friends and do it for a case of beer. That is all good, just have clear communications before the time as to what is expected when things fail. Obviously the beer route only carries a warrantee equal to the handover period of the beer.

[Trunk Monkey]

Please keep the "that's dumb" where you buy comments and such in Chat.

[ginericLC]

Are the 100 rears with Elockers shimmed like 80 series? I know when I did my last 80 that created a huge headache as nobody had the correct shims.