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08-05-08, 10:26 AM
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#1
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 113
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CV's. What needs to be replaced?
I have a clicking sound that I havent narrowed down yet. It sounds very much like a rock in the tire, but its been there for a few months now. I recently did the front brakes, bearing repack, and installed an OME lift and diff drop. Boots looked fine at that point. On to my question...
If my noise turned out to be a "bad" CV, what does this mean? What parts actually go bad? Ive read about a CV kit, is this just new boots, clamps, grease? Doesnt seem like much could go wrong with the joints....
School me.
Thanks!
__________________
75 FJ40, 33x10.5s, restoration in progress
01 UZJ100 OME 866, helton HX, custom storage drawers, BFG 285/16s
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08-05-08, 10:32 AM
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#2
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 3,138
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The joints are just like the birfs in your 40, just sealed. Most of the time if there's an issue with a CV it's that the boot has torn, it's lost most of the grease, and the heat causes damage.
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08-05-08, 10:39 AM
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#3
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Dain Bramaged Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 4,807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LSUfj
I have a clicking sound that I havent narrowed down yet. It sounds very much like a rock in the tire, but its been there for a few months now. I recently did the front brakes, bearing repack, and installed an OME lift and diff drop. Boots looked fine at that point. On to my question...
If my noise turned out to be a "bad" CV, what does this mean? What parts actually go bad? Ive read about a CV kit, is this just new boots, clamps, grease? Doesnt seem like much could go wrong with the joints....
School me.
Thanks!
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You have ball bearings inside a cage rotating every time the rig moves, plenty can go wrong there if they run dry or dirt gets inside.
The CV kit is a PM only, as you state it includes the boots clamps and grease.
__________________
Dan Johnson
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSRTRDR
 maybe your life took a vacation without you and that's why you are going crazy........ 
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Battle Born Cruisers
FJ40, A couple of thingamajigs and a deally bob, fully integrated whatzits, dash board Hula girl (pending spousal approval.)
And a pair of Pink Panties, now with a doohicky in the front.
Rust never sleeps.
.- -.. --... -. .--
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08-05-08, 10:39 AM
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#4
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey
The joints are just like the birfs in your 40, just sealed. Most of the time if there's an issue with a CV it's that the boot has torn, it's lost most of the grease, and the heat causes damage.
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So, do you replace the joints only? I searched and found an "axle" replacement, but was unclear as to what was included with the "axle". The shaft clearly was not broken. Sorry for my lack knowledge. Do most people get by with new boots, grease and clamps?
__________________
75 FJ40, 33x10.5s, restoration in progress
01 UZJ100 OME 866, helton HX, custom storage drawers, BFG 285/16s
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08-05-08, 10:41 AM
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#5
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Dain Bramaged Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 4,807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LSUfj
So, do you replace the joints only? I searched and found an "axle" replacement, but was unclear as to what was included with the "axle". The shaft clearly was not broken. Sorry for my lack knowledge. Do most people get by with new boots, grease and clamps?
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AFAIK the axels are sold as assemblies, everything between the diff and the drive hub.
The CV axel is like two birfields with a center section. The birfield sections are covered with a rubber boot to keep the grease in and dirt out. If your CV joints are worn to the point that they are making noise replacing the boots probably won't be a long term fix. As I posted above the boot kit is a PM you do before the joints run dry.
__________________
Dan Johnson
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSRTRDR
 maybe your life took a vacation without you and that's why you are going crazy........ 
|
Battle Born Cruisers
FJ40, A couple of thingamajigs and a deally bob, fully integrated whatzits, dash board Hula girl (pending spousal approval.)
And a pair of Pink Panties, now with a doohicky in the front.
Rust never sleeps.
.- -.. --... -. .--
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08-05-08, 10:45 AM
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#6
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 3,138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty_tlc
AFAIK the axels are sold as assemblies, everything between the diff and the drive hub.
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Yep. If the joint is indeed bad, you just replace the whole thing. Someone mentioned the NAPA joint, like $150 and lifetime warranty. If the boots are torn or leaking and youv'e caught it early, then you can just reseal/reboot them.
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08-05-08, 10:46 AM
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#7
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Reno
Posts: 5,218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty_tlc
AFAIK the axels are sold as assemblies, everything between the diff and the drive hub.
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Correct. You can, naturally, get them from Toyota but NAPA also sells a complete CV axle assembly for $100-$110 per side (brand new, lifetime guarantee, better CV boot clamps than OEM) but I do not have direct experience with the NAPA unit (yet).
For a lifted rig and one that sees off-road use I would recommend changing the OEM Toyota boot clamps/bands to the style you are in control of the pretension (available at NAPA). I had to do this on my new OEM replacements within 20K...which kinda pissed me off really given how much the OEM CV axle assemblies cost (>$300 per)!
__________________
Modded '99 for overlanding/exploring: 35's, 4.88's, AO drawers, Slee rr, TJM fr, ARB fr locker, ear candy, Waeco CF-50, PowerGate with 2nd battery, home brew sliders & t-case skid plate, 9.5XP/X-line, LF 170's, OEM 864's, Foxes x 4, 12mm BL, Carl's UCAs, ... KE7NCM
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08-05-08, 10:49 AM
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#8
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 113
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That ought to cover it. Thanks guys! everything I needed to know in less than 20 mins!
__________________
75 FJ40, 33x10.5s, restoration in progress
01 UZJ100 OME 866, helton HX, custom storage drawers, BFG 285/16s
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08-05-08, 10:58 AM
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#9
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Dain Bramaged Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 4,807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spressomon
Correct. You can, naturally, get them from Toyota but NAPA also sells a complete CV axle assembly for $100-$110 per side (brand new, lifetime guarantee, better CV boot clamps than OEM) but I do not have direct experience with the NAPA unit (yet).
For a lifted rig and one that sees off-road use I would recommend changing the OEM Toyota boot clamps/bands to the style you are in control of the pretension (available at NAPA). I had to do this on my new OEM replacements within 20K...which kinda pissed me off really given how much the OEM CV axle assemblies cost (>$300 per)!
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Is there a gender to the axels? (ie DS - PS)
__________________
Dan Johnson
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSRTRDR
 maybe your life took a vacation without you and that's why you are going crazy........ 
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Battle Born Cruisers
FJ40, A couple of thingamajigs and a deally bob, fully integrated whatzits, dash board Hula girl (pending spousal approval.)
And a pair of Pink Panties, now with a doohicky in the front.
Rust never sleeps.
.- -.. --... -. .--
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08-05-08, 11:05 AM
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#10
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 3,138
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Yep, they're right and left. Not sure on what the difference is since there's no long side/short side on the 100.
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08-05-08, 11:14 AM
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#11
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IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Bellevue, WA
Posts: 389
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anyone have the part numbers of the NAPA clamps and tool for that clamps?? Mine are now leaking, but the boots aren't ripped and it's clear they are leaking from the small end - time to reclamp.
__________________
'03 Hundy - Color matched ARB Sahara & ARB Rear, Warn M12K, Hella FF4000 135w, REVO's, DVD Hack, Bilsteins, HIR, Hellroaring Dual Battery, ScanGuage II, DRL's off, Fogs work w/ High Beams
'92 80- sold to brother-in-law!!
'01 KTM EXC453 Dual sported, REKLUSE, Yoshi
www.pacificflyfishers.com
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08-05-08, 11:23 AM
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#12
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Reno
Posts: 5,218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey
Yep, they're right and left. Not sure on what the difference is since there's no long side/short side on the 100.
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I wasn't aware they are dedicated left/right; I certainly can't tell them apart. Hundy guys typically carry one spare CV that will work on either side for trail side repair if necessary.
__________________
Modded '99 for overlanding/exploring: 35's, 4.88's, AO drawers, Slee rr, TJM fr, ARB fr locker, ear candy, Waeco CF-50, PowerGate with 2nd battery, home brew sliders & t-case skid plate, 9.5XP/X-line, LF 170's, OEM 864's, Foxes x 4, 12mm BL, Carl's UCAs, ... KE7NCM
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08-05-08, 11:33 AM
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#13
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 3,138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spressomon
I wasn't aware they are dedicated left/right; I certainly can't tell them apart. Hundy guys typically carry one spare CV that will work on either side for trail side repair if necessary.
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Strike that, same part no.
Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Left Front - Remfd
NMD
954188 $61.89
Core $94.00
Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Left Front - New
NMD
944038
$110.00
Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Right Front - Remfd
NMD
954188 $61.89
Core $94.00
Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Right Front - New
NMD
944038
$110.00
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08-05-08, 11:44 AM
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#14
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Dain Bramaged Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 4,807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey
Strike that, same part no.
Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Left Front - Remfd
NMD
954188 $61.89
Core $94.00
Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Left Front - New
NMD
944038
$110.00
Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Right Front - Remfd
NMD
954188 $61.89
Core $94.00
Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Right Front - New
NMD
944038
$110.00
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That makes more sense.
__________________
Dan Johnson
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSRTRDR
 maybe your life took a vacation without you and that's why you are going crazy........ 
|
Battle Born Cruisers
FJ40, A couple of thingamajigs and a deally bob, fully integrated whatzits, dash board Hula girl (pending spousal approval.)
And a pair of Pink Panties, now with a doohicky in the front.
Rust never sleeps.
.- -.. --... -. .--
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08-05-08, 03:23 PM
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#15
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Comfortably Numb
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NE Atlanta, GA
Posts: 284
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Has anyone seen the NAPA units versus OEM? Has anyone used them?
For a third of the price, I was wondering about the quality...
__________________
2005 UZJ100
OME T-Bars, OME 2" 'Heavy' Lift Kit, Slee Diff Drop, ARB Combo Bumper, Warn XD9000, Slee Rear Bumper w/Tire Carrier, Slee Sliders
I know the voices aren't real, but sometimes they have good ideas...
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08-07-08, 05:51 PM
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#16
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: MH, IDaho
Posts: 3,543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fish2live
anyone have the part numbers of the NAPA clamps and tool for that clamps?? Mine are now leaking, but the boots aren't ripped and it's clear they are leaking from the small end - time to reclamp.
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Just go into the store and ask for CV clamps. They will have a case of them in the back and sell them by the piece. Measure before you go in so you can get the correct size. I brought home the wrong size the first time. I don't recall what the right size was now. One bad thing, these clamps are made in China. But as I found out all of the after market clamps are made in China. I have a Toyota OEM reboot kit for both boots for both axles brand new I'd sell if someone wants it. I decided to just replace the small clamps and so far I've been OK.
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