Added Additional Fuse Block w/picks

[Zane]

As I am now starting to add more electrical accessories to my rig I waned to install an additional Fuse Block to run them all off of. In the past I would just have tapped into an existing wire or fuse in the factory fuse block, but I have never liked doing that. A future mod I have will be dual battery set up, so in time I will run this new fuse block off of the additional battery.

I doubt I will ever fill all 14 fuses within the Block, but you never know. I went with the notion that its better to have more than you need than not enough.

So far I only have my Hella 4000 relay and my brake controller hooked up to the fuse block as of now. Short list of future additions are as follows:

CB
HAM Radio (if I ever take the test)
Satellite radio
Extra Power outlets
and anything else I can think of..

I couldn't find any room to place the fuse block on the drivers side left kick plate but I found the perfect spot for it to the upper right floorboard on the drivers side.

I was able to use heavy duty Velcro on the back to attach it to the fire wall. What is nice about that is if I need easy access to the fuse block I can simply pull it down and then put it back up.

Zane

[Trunk Monkey]

Do you have it hooked up hot or swtiched or some of both? Once I get my 2nd batt going I plan to use a Hella/MTA block, 7 spaces and do 3 hot and 4 switched.

[Zane]

Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey

Do you have it hooked up hot or swtiched or some of both? Once I get my 2nd batt going I plan to use a Hella/MTA block, 7 spaces and do 3 hot and 4 switched.

I have them all Hot for now. Would like to make some hot and some switched, but not sure if this fuse block will allow for that. Would like to better understand where you would tap into if you wanted it switched? Any suggestions?

[Trunk Monkey]

You can tap into a line that's already on switched power. On my 80 we used the power to the rear seat heater fan.

[1loudLX]

you can switch any single one power lead by just putting a switch on it. if you wanted you could run a whole bunch of them into the center console and have a switchbox in there, something I had done for my emergency lights.


EDIT: Ah I see, you guys mean switched from the key?

[Zane]

Originally Posted by 1loudLX

EDIT: Ah I see, you guys mean switched from the key?

Yes!

[1loudLX]

me thinks you would need a different fuse block to have some switched, some not switched.

[Trunk Monkey]

Originally Posted by 1loudLX

me thinks you would need a different fuse block to have some switched, some not switched.

Nope, you just feed the positive on the ones you want switched from that wire and the ones you want hot from that wire. Doesn't look like it'd work on the block Zane installed tho where they all feed from one common.

This is like the one I used:

[Zane]

Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey

You can tap into a line that's already on switched power. On my 80 we used the power to the rear seat heater fan.

With the potential of adding quite a bit of things to this block, I would be concerned that taping into something like that would not provide enough power, compared to having it connected directly to the battery. I am no electrician and not well versed in 12v electronics, so I could very well be wrong.

[Trunk Monkey]

Well, you also now have the concern of accidentally killing your battery will all your goodies on hot. That's why I like things like flashlight charger, HAM, CB on switched and only essentials like a fridge on hot. As long as you're not overloading the gauge of the wire, it's fine.

[Zane]

Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey

Well, you also now have the concern of accidentally killing your battery will all your goodies on hot. That's why I like things like flashlight charger, HAM, CB on switched and only essentials like a fridge on hot. As long as you're not overloading the gauge of the wire, it's fine.

Agree with you 100%! I will be looking into finding out what the largest switch line is to tap into for this. I may just return this fuse block and purchase one that allows me to have some that are hot all the time and some that are switched.

Zane

[Zane]

Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey

Nope, you just feed the positive on the ones you want switched from that wire and the ones you want hot from that wire. Doesn't look like it'd work on the block Zane installed tho where they all feed from one common.

This is like the one I used:

Where did you pick these up at?

[Trunk Monkey]

Got mine from a local trailer supply, branded as something else, they're Hella. Like $20 for the 6 gang. The pic is from one of the larger online Hella dealers, Susquehanna Motorsports.

[dclee]

Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey

Well, you also now have the concern of accidentally killing your battery will all your goodies on hot. That's why I like things like flashlight charger, HAM, CB on switched and only essentials like a fridge on hot. As long as you're not overloading the gauge of the wire, it's fine.

I could see ham/CB as being critical...

I ran 10ga off a fuse-block near the battery (to reduce chances of a short causing a fire or something, since it's not a fuseable link) to another block in the PS footwell, way up at the very top of the plastic panel that is closest to the door. Power distributes inside the cabin from there.

[Trunk Monkey]

Originally Posted by dclee

I could see ham/CB as being critical...

So, turn the key on and use it. Those types of things are just as easy to leave on, forget about, and leave you stranded with a dead battery.

[Turbo45]

you might consider using a realy that is turned on with switched power and then running constant power to the relay so when the key is on your relay powers up the fuse panel when the key is off no power gets to the fuse panel
that way you can run a big wire straight from the batteries and draw as much as you want off the fuse box
but you wont be putting extra stress on the factory wiring

[ginericLC]

Originally Posted by Turbo45

you might consider using a realy that is turned on with switched power and then running constant power to the relay so when the key is on your relay powers up the fuse panel when the key is off no power gets to the fuse panel
that way you can run a big wire straight from the batteries and draw as much as you want off the fuse box
but you wont be putting extra stress on the factory wiring

That is the best idea. And I'd go with a high amp one.

On mine I ran a 40 Amp breaker near the battery (it is on the fender) with heavy gauge wire going to a 6 fuse panel that has one common hot wire. Most of these things I want hot all the time. My HAM, CB, and GPS. I hate it when my GPS shuts off with the key and has to restart and waiting for it.

[dclee]

Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey

So, turn the key on and use it. Those types of things are just as easy to leave on, forget about, and leave you stranded with a dead battery.

Hence... dual battery setup! If you're going to do, might as well do it right...

edit: Also, in camp, we tend to leave the Ham on at all hours, usually to communicate with late-comers or folks still stuck out on the trail. I personally wouldn't want the ignition hot to do that.

[Zane]

Originally Posted by Turbo45

you might consider using a realy that is turned on with switched power and then running constant power to the relay so when the key is on your relay powers up the fuse panel when the key is off no power gets to the fuse panel
that way you can run a big wire straight from the batteries and draw as much as you want off the fuse box
but you wont be putting extra stress on the factory wiring

Excellent! Thanks for the direction!

[ToyotaDon]

You could probably get crazy and modify that fuse block to have 2 separate circuits, 1 hot & 1 switched. If you cut into the lower portion to separate the bus bar, then just used one of the legs for your feed with a higher (~30-40) amperage fuse in there, it might work.

When you go dual batteries, I would definitely do the relay. That way you can control it with the ignition key, but power it from the secondary battery.

[pnwfj]

Zane - if that fuse block is connected directly to your battery (red wire) make sure you throw a fuse into the line as close to the main battery as possible.

[Zane]

Originally Posted by pnwfj

Zane - if that fuse block is connected directly to your battery (red wire) make sure you throw a fuse into the line as close to the main battery as possible.

This was done when I installed the fuse block. I should have noted that as part of the install.
Thanks

Zane

[alia176]

Gents,

Just some helpful hints for the aux fuse blocks...

-Label your wires and/or fuse locations. In about a year when all the slots are full, it'll suck mega trying to figure out what goes where!

-Pick different color wires for your gadgets and select the fuses based on your wire size, NOT on your gadget amp draw! Your wire size needs to be appropriate for the gadget amp draw and may have its own fuse. Remember, the purpose of a fuse is to protect the wire insulation from melting and causing a (carpet) fire. If you undersize a fuse for a given wire, it'll smoke the wire insulation long before the fuse blows.

-For adding a "switched" aux fuse block, I recommend using a relay. This relay will turn on when the IGN is on and in turn it'll route major power straight from the battery to the aux fuse block. Size this wire appropriately. Label this relay too. For Ex: IGN SW.

-For labeling, don't use thermal printers as the heat will turn them black!

Most of you know this already but doesn't hurt to reiterate it once in a while. I'd hate to see a car fire!

Cheers and safe wiring. Let me know if you have any questions.

[spressomon]