Another Successful Timing Belt R&R

Adam R · 06-06-08, 09:06 PM

Well, I finally found the time to do the 90K maintenance at 95K miles. Thank you for the pics and posts on this forum I used to prepare for the job.

It took 4 hours to dismantle (water pump removed) and 6 hours to put it all back together. So far, after two short trips to get it up to temperature, I don't have any leaks and better yet, I didn't have any spare bolts and nuts left over when I was finished.

I replaced the water pump, drive belt and timing belt with the option of ordering more parts today if I found any tensioners, seals or bearings that were not operating smoothly or leaking. Everything looked fine when I got all of the covers off. Water pump was seeping a little so it was definitely due and the timing belt had a couple of teeth that were starting to lose their cords/unravel. I'm sure it could have made it a few thousand more miles, but I feel better having a new one in there.

Fortunately, my cams did not move when I took the old timing belt off so I didn't have to clock the crank 50 deg ATDC like some have had to do.

Had I to do it over again, I would just buy all new components (seals, idlers, and o-rings for the water pump pieces) and swap them out. This was a pretty involved project and a lot of stuff comes off to get to the water pump/timing belt. When you get that far in, I think it's worth it to have new pieces installed and not worry about going back in again. Hopefully I should be fine for the next 60k or so.

The only other surprise was the softball sized mouse nest I noticed under the intake and between the heads. Since we haven't let the LC sit for more than 2 days since buying it 4 years ago off a lot, it must have come with the vehicle when we purchased it. I was able to fish it out with a curved piece of wire.

Adam R

BMWSTOY · 06-06-08, 10:06 PM

Congrats, although I am not sure about the comment on the 50 degrees - that step is absolutely necessary in order to do the job, but glad it turned out just the same.

Because this is an interference engine, it is crucial that you crank it 50 degrees past 0 prior to removal of the belt and crank - for those that venture into our territory. This is in the factory service manual and a must do for those do it yourselfers.

Again, congrats.

Adam R · 06-07-08, 08:46 AM

I only had the Chiltons manual this time around and it didn't have any mention of the 50 ATDC procedure. When I read some of the write-ups, I guess I didn't catch the part about rotating it prior to removing the tension on the belt if that is the case.

In the future, I'll spring for the FSM if I have to go this far back into the engine.

Thanks,

Adam

newbee mechanic · 06-07-08, 09:48 PM

I just got mine done as well, and as I was doing this,
I figured, theoretically, the belt could be changed at any of 360 degrees / 8 cylinder, positions, as long as the cams and crank are in right alignment, right? But they have timing marks which can only align in one spot, which they call TDC. OK fine, but then the Toyota manual writer realized that it was impossible to see that god darn dimple mark(the mark which is supposed to lineup with the "CR" mark on the new belt) on the crank, which at TDC puts it dead bottom of crank making it impossible to see unless you get under. So the manual writer got the bright idea to move it another 50 degrees, so that maybe you have a better chance of seeing that faint little dimple mark. Now I just wish, they would have forwarned about the other marks on the crank, which are the 2 holes and splotch of white paint. If it wasn't for the pic I saw in the MUD FAQ section, I think I would have been thoroughly confused. Sorry for the rant. I'm glad you got it done at TDC. Way to go, DIY.

06-06-08, 09:06 PM	#1
Adam R IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Ohio Posts: 79	Another Successful Timing Belt R&R Well, I finally found the time to do the 90K maintenance at 95K miles. Thank you for the pics and posts on this forum I used to prepare for the job. It took 4 hours to dismantle (water pump removed) and 6 hours to put it all back together. So far, after two short trips to get it up to temperature, I don't have any leaks and better yet, I didn't have any spare bolts and nuts left over when I was finished. I replaced the water pump, drive belt and timing belt with the option of ordering more parts today if I found any tensioners, seals or bearings that were not operating smoothly or leaking. Everything looked fine when I got all of the covers off. Water pump was seeping a little so it was definitely due and the timing belt had a couple of teeth that were starting to lose their cords/unravel. I'm sure it could have made it a few thousand more miles, but I feel better having a new one in there. Fortunately, my cams did not move when I took the old timing belt off so I didn't have to clock the crank 50 deg ATDC like some have had to do. Had I to do it over again, I would just buy all new components (seals, idlers, and o-rings for the water pump pieces) and swap them out. This was a pretty involved project and a lot of stuff comes off to get to the water pump/timing belt. When you get that far in, I think it's worth it to have new pieces installed and not worry about going back in again. Hopefully I should be fine for the next 60k or so. The only other surprise was the softball sized mouse nest I noticed under the intake and between the heads. Since we haven't let the LC sit for more than 2 days since buying it 4 years ago off a lot, it must have come with the vehicle when we purchased it. I was able to fish it out with a curved piece of wire. Adam R __________________ 1999 LC 100 series, wanting to lift but wife says no. 2001 Jeep TJ 6 inches of lift, locked and up on 35's 1984 Toyota Turbo Diesel, lifted, intercooled and rusting like nobody's business

06-06-08, 10:06 PM	#2
BMWSTOY Need $ for Mods Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Colorado Posts: 449	Congrats, although I am not sure about the comment on the 50 degrees - that step is absolutely necessary in order to do the job, but glad it turned out just the same. Because this is an interference engine, it is crucial that you crank it 50 degrees past 0 prior to removal of the belt and crank - for those that venture into our territory. This is in the factory service manual and a must do for those do it yourselfers. Again, congrats. __________________ 2000 LC - 'The Black Pearl' 120K. 285/75/16BFG's DIY'r: Timing/serp/H20pump,Black Pearl emblems, Trim. Pioneer 1-din. 2001 Fleetwood-Coleman tent trailer. Daily Commuters: Trek Madone 5.2 / Scott Comp Racing MTB LIVESTRONG

06-07-08, 08:46 AM	#3
Adam R IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Ohio Posts: 79	I only had the Chiltons manual this time around and it didn't have any mention of the 50 ATDC procedure. When I read some of the write-ups, I guess I didn't catch the part about rotating it prior to removing the tension on the belt if that is the case. In the future, I'll spring for the FSM if I have to go this far back into the engine. Thanks, Adam __________________ 1999 LC 100 series, wanting to lift but wife says no. 2001 Jeep TJ 6 inches of lift, locked and up on 35's 1984 Toyota Turbo Diesel, lifted, intercooled and rusting like nobody's business Last edited by Adam R; 06-07-08 at 08:46 AM. Reason: extra sentence

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

06-07-08, 09:48 PM	#4
newbee mechanic IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: New Jersey Posts: 29	I just got mine done as well, and as I was doing this, I figured, theoretically, the belt could be changed at any of 360 degrees / 8 cylinder, positions, as long as the cams and crank are in right alignment, right? But they have timing marks which can only align in one spot, which they call TDC. OK fine, but then the Toyota manual writer realized that it was impossible to see that god darn dimple mark(the mark which is supposed to lineup with the "CR" mark on the new belt) on the crank, which at TDC puts it dead bottom of crank making it impossible to see unless you get under. So the manual writer got the bright idea to move it another 50 degrees, so that maybe you have a better chance of seeing that faint little dimple mark. Now I just wish, they would have forwarned about the other marks on the crank, which are the 2 holes and splotch of white paint. If it wasn't for the pic I saw in the MUD FAQ section, I think I would have been thoroughly confused. Sorry for the rant. I'm glad you got it done at TDC. Way to go, DIY.