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Old 06-05-08, 04:52 PM   #1
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A/C Evaporator cleaner

Found this over on the 80-Series forum...

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...vaporator.html


Just ordered the kit. Should clean all that Nevada dust I've accumulated over the past couple years .


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Old 06-05-08, 05:03 PM   #2
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please do a 100 series writeup when you do it!


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Old 06-14-08, 11:17 PM   #3
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Finally received the AC Evaporator and vent cleaner. You need to drill a 1/4" hole (be careful not to drill into the evaporator!)...thread the included fitting into the plastic evaporator housing (I installed the fitting just to the left of the filter slot). I removed the WAY dusty filters, put the filter cover back on, connected the hose to the fitting from the aerosol cleaner can...and sprayed until the can was empty.

You'll get plenty of gunk to drain out of the evaporator housing...be sure to have a catch pan...it takes about 1/2 hour to 45-minutes to do its thing and then it starts draining the residual mess out.

Sprayed the vents with the included vent cleaner/sanitizer. Put clean filters back in...buttoned it up and done. 1/2 job. BTW I reported in another thread I have successfully been washing the cabin filters out...works like a charm so far...and a BIG savings since they get clogged SO fast out here in desertville .

I could feel the A/C air was quite a bit colder after cleaning the evaporator. And it doesn't smell dusty anymore.

I think I'll keep a couple of these kits around...for more frequent use down the road...er trail .
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Old 06-15-08, 12:04 AM   #4
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where does it drain out from?


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Old 06-15-08, 12:28 AM   #5
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From the evaporator housing to the puddle you commonly see on the ground.


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Old 06-15-08, 07:48 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1loudLX View Post
where does it drain out from?
There is a plastic hose that connects to the bottom of the evaporator box and runs down along the PS frame rail that allows the accumulated moisture to drain freely. You want to check to be sure this hose is not clogged. Run a piece of wire (fold the end of the wire over or protect it so that it doesn't hang up/tear the hose) from the bottom side of the hose up.


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Old 06-15-08, 12:01 PM   #7
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oh so there isnt a special drain it just uses the regular drain? Cool, very simple I like it.


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Old 06-15-08, 12:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1loudLX View Post
oh so there isnt a special drain it just uses the regular drain? Cool, very simple I like it.
Yep...uses the existing drain (assuming it's not plugged...but that's an easy fix too if it is plugged up).

Yes: This is a simple, effective and affordable tune-up for your A/C.


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Old 06-15-08, 12:32 PM   #9
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did you open it up to figure out where to drill?


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Old 06-15-08, 01:15 PM   #10
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Quote:
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did you open it up to figure out where to drill?
Yes.

This isn't the only place to install the fitting...another spot might be on the filter housing 'cap'.


Maybe put this in Tech?


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Old 06-15-08, 01:55 PM   #11
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Very cool! I've been looking at that same kit for a couple years but was scared to do it...maybe not anymore!


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Old 06-15-08, 02:17 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spressomon View Post
Yes.

This isn't the only place to install the fitting...another spot might be on the filter housing 'cap'.


Maybe put this in Tech?


how long does it take to get in there and open it up?


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Old 06-15-08, 02:30 PM   #13
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how long does it take to get in there and open it up?
Glove box door comes off: 2-screws and about 5-minutes or less; then the upper glove box latch panel is removed (3-screws) in about 5-minutes or less.

It truly is a 1/2 job. If you know evap water has been draining after A/C use then you know the drain tube is not plugged. However if not you may want to rotoroot the drain tube with a piece of stiff wire.


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Old 06-16-08, 09:55 PM   #14
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i just got my kit today...however i plan on just using the ac drain to connect my can i am going to upload the picture of the kit in a bit....its made by petrol


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Old 06-16-08, 10:41 PM   #15
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i just got my kit today...however i plan on just using the ac drain to connect my can i am going to upload the picture of the kit in a bit....its made by petrol

Good idea!


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Old 06-17-08, 10:14 PM   #16
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ok i've attached the ac foam kit that i used today...i attached it to the ac drain...not too difficult i just removed three clips in the fenderwell and pulled back a splash shield and was able to hook up....i go the foam as a sample from the rep...let me know if anyone is interested and i can see what i can do get try and get some more....ac seems to be blowing colder sooner but i messed up and forgot to record the time it takes to get cold and how cold it gets now
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Old 06-18-08, 10:09 AM   #17
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Is there any reason why you couldn't drill into the evaporator below the glove box, thereby eliminating the need to remove it?
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Old 06-18-08, 10:38 AM   #18
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Is there any reason why you couldn't drill into the evaporator below the glove box, thereby eliminating the need to remove it?

Nope as long as the schraeder fitting is above whatever the residual moisture level that pools/drains from the evaporator (just to be sure the drain water wouldn't get past the schraeder valve and drain onto your carpet mat or passenger's foot ).

But I would want to remove the cabin filters before I foamed the compartment (disregard if you don't have the cabin filters installed ). I doubt, although I could be wrong, the foam would clean the filter elements as well as I can by removing them and washing them out...


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Old 06-18-08, 09:14 PM   #19
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........
But I would want to remove the cabin filters before I foamed the compartment (disregard if you don't have the cabin filters installed ). I doubt, although I could be wrong, the foam would clean the filter elements as well as I can by removing them and washing them out...
I can't remmeber if the drain is located on the evaporator side of the filters or not. Definitely worth checking because if you don't remove the filters and go through the drain hole you may be filling the compartment between the filters and the fan, thereby not getting the product to the evaporator where it needs to go (depending on drain location compared to the evaporator and the filter location.)

Personally, if I had filters, I would probably uses two cans of the stuff for the "first or initial" clean to get the job done properly.
1. Remove filters.
2. Drill the hole between the filters and the evaporator "if there is room and it is practical".(as high as possible, the product may be foam to start with but will always run down so higher will hopefully let you get it into all the highest parts of the evaporator better)
3. Charge the foam in so it does its work.
4. Drain etc.
5. Replace your old filters.
6. Charge the foam in so it fills the space between the filters and the evaporator and forces the foam into and through the evaporator as much as possible, let it do its work.
7. Drain etc.
8. Then remove the old filters and then install new filters. This way (I believe) you would get the best cleaning performnce of the airbox, but more importantly the evaporator.
9. Another thing I like to do is to get a hose in there and wash the evaporator out with water.
whatever you think is appropriate!
There may be impractical scenarios in the information above so you guys will have to do whatever you think is appropriate!
My personal thoughts only!


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Old 06-18-08, 10:40 PM   #20
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I can't remmeber if the drain is located on the evaporator side of the filters or not. Definitely worth checking because if you don't remove the filters and go through the drain hole you may be filling the compartment between the filters and the fan, thereby not getting the product to the evaporator where it needs to go (depending on drain location compared to the evaporator and the filter location.)

Personally, if I had filters, I would probably uses two cans of the stuff for the "first or initial" clean to get the job done properly.
1. Remove filters.
2. Drill the hole between the filters and the evaporator "if there is room and it is practical".(as high as possible, the product may be foam to start with but will always run down so higher will hopefully let you get it into all the highest parts of the evaporator better)
3. Charge the foam in so it does its work.
4. Drain etc.
5. Replace your old filters.
6. Charge the foam in so it fills the space between the filters and the evaporator and forces the foam into and through the evaporator as much as possible, let it do its work.
7. Drain etc.
8. Then remove the old filters and then install new filters. This way (I believe) you would get the best cleaning performnce of the airbox, but more importantly the evaporator.
9. Another thing I like to do is to get a hose in there and wash the evaporator out with water.
whatever you think is appropriate!
There may be impractical scenarios in the information above so you guys will have to do whatever you think is appropriate!
My personal thoughts only!

Good ideas for sure! The drain tube is in the back left hand corner when you looking straight on at the evap box. Yeah...it makes sense to leave the filters in for the evap cleaning then replace: Good tip!

But WOW...post cleaning the A/C actually gets cold again! I, due to the extreme Nevada dust we travel through, could probably flush it again and get just a bit more efficiency out of it.

We need to get a group buy going on these kits...$60 a pop several times a year adds up fast .

Dan


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Old 06-19-08, 04:14 AM   #21
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The reason I mention the filter position..........I have RHD so unless I pull my glove box again I can't quite see where the filters should be located. (I don't have the cover, but I can see where they would go)
I wouldn't worry about spending cash on doing this once a year, instead do it once properly, with two cans maybe, then do a wash with water every other year or two. I have never used the cleaner myself, just washed the evaporator out with water every two years approx, but I haven't had to deal with tobbaco smells etc. I also install filter wool on my return inlet vents (mentioned in other posts , with pics I think, do a search) so I eliminate as much crap getting in there in the first place. On my old Nissan 4x4 ute, the mud (wet dust) used to build up on my filter wool which I would pull out and wash, then I would just put the hose into the evaporator. Yes sometimes you spill a bit of water and flood the pipes onto the carpet, but running the A/C soon dries them out! I squirted a bit into mine a year or 2 ago, but it was a quick job and next time I will make up a short right angle nozzle on a bit of copper pipe to do it properly. This will do for me.


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Old 07-02-08, 01:34 PM   #22
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bought a kit yesterday....at the porsche dealership of all places. Going to do it later this week hopefully.


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Old 07-02-08, 01:51 PM   #23
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Just did this over the weekend. Some modifications that others may be interested in.....

1. Removed (and cleaned) the air filters prior to the cleaning with Frigiclean

2. I put the schrader valve in the door for the air filters. near the top that way I didnt have to worry about hitting anything. This worked well and doesn't interfere with anything (I left the valve in the plactic and capped with provided cap)

3. Followed the directions, and re-inserted the air filters afterword.

Definitely easy - mine wasn't that dirty - you can preview most of the evap pretty well through the air filter "door" if you were curious on whether or not you might need to do this.


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Old 08-13-08, 06:00 PM   #24
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For those of you that have done this, does the smell still seem cleaner and A/C cooler after a few months?


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Old 08-13-08, 09:05 PM   #25
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For those of you that have done this, does the smell still seem cleaner and A/C cooler after a few months?

The air smells clean and the A/C runs substantially cooler immediately after a cleanse. The temp differential post cleaning will be greater with dirtier evaporator and visa versa...


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Old 08-14-08, 10:33 AM   #26
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