inboard front driveshaft boots torn

[gaylon]

While replacing an O2 sensor, I noticed that both the inboard cv boots are torn. They have apparently been this way for a long time. The dealer wants roughly $1K to replace both the inner and outer boots on both sides. The parts are less that $100, if I do it myself. I spent a good bit of today searching this site but have not found what I am looking for. So a few questions:

1) How long can I ride with these boots trashed like this before doing more damage?
2) Is it as easy as Campfire makes it look to get the axle off and then replace the boots?
3) Should I just get new axles while i am in there?
4) What special tools do I need?
5) Anything else I should do while I am in there?

The truck has 105K miles or so and is a 2000.

Thanks.

[Trunk Monkey]

Originally Posted by gaylon

1) How long can I ride with these boots trashed like this before doing more damage?
2) Is it as easy as Campfire makes it look to get the axle off and then replace the boots?
3) Should I just get new axles while i am in there?
4) What special tools do I need?
5) Anything else I should do while I am in there?

1) The potential for damage is grease running out or foreign crap getting in. Many people run on torn CV boots for a LONG time without every knowing it, until the joint isn't lubricated any more and it seizes.

2) If you've never dug into a knuckle, I would not do it. I've done several birfs jobs and even then when it comes time for mine, I will remove the entire CV joint and take it to a local place that specialized in CV rebuilds. They charge significantly less if they don't have to go through the labor of removing the joint.

3) Unless your axle is damaged, no.

4) Off the top of my head, CV clamp pliers, 54mm socket, c-clip pliers, brass drift

5) Wheel bearing repack, check rotors and pads

[spressomon]

Whether it's easy or not really depends #1 on your mechanical skills. I've worked on all my vehicles since I was 16...I would say the reboot job for someone of average to above average mechanical skills is not an "easy" job. Although it is relatively straightforward and a job any competent home mechanic could facilitate assuming the proper hand tools and the FSM.

Or...you can go to NAPA and purchase brand new CV shaft assembly for about $110 (about twice what you'll spend for just the boot kit). These are new not refurbbed units and come with a lifetime guarantee from Napa. Have I used the NAPA LC CV shafts? No. But I ended up having to reboot my new Toyota OEM CV shafts with less than 20K on them because the clamps were not tight enough from Toyota (and the Toyota CV shafts will run you about $350 per side).

You might need the hub flange gasket apart of this job...and while you're in there you might as well be prepared to clean and relube the hub bearings...which will require a seal replacement. Pay special attention to the needle roller bearing, inside the steering knuckle, that the CV shaft spins on...just make sure you grease this before reassembly. You're going to need a steering knuckle puller...sometimes you can get lucky and rap the steering knuckle tapers loose and sometimes you need the puller. And of course a bench vise can be handy when you're reinserting the CV balls into the retainers. A couple rolls of toilet paper work great for mopping up the CV grease. And 1-tall can of aerosol brake cleaner per CV shaft. In addition to the tools and suggestions Trunk Monkey stated above.

[gaylon]

Do you think it is easier to replace the axle with a new one that it is to replace the boots?

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by gaylon

Do you think it is easier to replace the axle with a new one that it is to replace the boots?

Definitely yes!

[gaylon]

I called another dealer who is willing to do the boots parts and labor for $650, so I think I am going to do that as my wife needs to drive to North Carolina next week. I guess I also need to break down and buy the diff drop kit...

Thank you for your help.

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by gaylon

I called another dealer who is willing to do the boots parts and labor for $650, so I think I am going to do that as my wife needs to drive to North Carolina next week. I guess I also need to break down and buy the diff drop kit...

Thank you for your help.

FYI: I had trouble with the Toyota OEM boot bands allowing leakage from the boot. During my reboot of the newish Toyota OEM CV axles I utilized a different type of band (Napa) that allows me to adjust the band tension. Whereas the Toyota band is a preset tension...

Based on my experience, and I am not suggesting you do not install the diff drop kit, the diff drop kit does not necessarily prevent boot leak/seepage. The leakage seems to come about after changing (i.e."lifting") the effective boot rotation angle.

My new CV's (as well as my original CV's that had 72K on the odometer) started leaking after I raised the front end another 20mm or so after the initial lift set-up. I would suggest you lift the front to where you want it right after you get the new boots on and leave it...

Good luck!

[gaylon]

Originally Posted by spressomon

FYI: I had trouble with the Toyota OEM boot bands allowing leakage from the boot. During my reboot of the newish Toyota OEM CV axles I utilized a different type of band (Napa) that allows me to adjust the band tension. Whereas the Toyota band is a preset tension...

Based on my experience, and I am not suggesting you do not install the diff drop kit, the diff drop kit does not necessarily prevent boot leak/seepage. The leakage seems to come about after changing (i.e."lifting") the effective boot rotation angle.

My new CV's (as well as my original CV's that had 72K on the odometer) started leaking after I raised the front end another 20mm or so after the initial lift set-up. I would suggest you lift the front to where you want it right after you get the new boots on and leave it...

Good luck!

Well, I ordered the diff drop just now, so that is a done deal. I have read a lot about the toyota bands allowing leakage. What I am planning on doing is monitoring them after install and changing out the bands if needed. The lift is already in place, until I get the ARB bumper, then I will need to do some adjusting. Thanks again.

[Campfire]

Well, like I've posted before, replacing the axle with a reman unit is the EASIEST thing. Then you have a spare, and can re-boot the one you take out at your own pace. Thanks for saying that I made it look easy, but if you don't have all tools, jacks, jack stands, air tools, etc. it will take awhile. Everyone has their own mechanical ability and if you can do your own brakes INCLUDING getting the hub off to turn the rotor, then you should be able to change the axle.

[gaylon]

Campfire,

Thank you for the response, and you do make it look easy