Help Please! Clunking, 4WD not working, only works in RWD

[chauncey]

Hello everyone. I am having a problem with my 2000 Landcruiser and would like help in determining the problem. If I put the truck into "normal" drive operation, I can hear clunking noises and the car does not drive. If I turn of VSC, the car drives fine. Also, when the VSC is off, the car seems to "slip" during cornering and hills.

I am thinking this is a transfer case problem but would like your thoughts before I start working on it. Any input would be greatly appreciated. THANK YOU ALL.

[Trunk Monkey]

Sounds like a VSC problem. The clunking you're hearing may be the brake system working, it's pretty loud when the VSC activates. If the VSC system is faulting and applying the brakes then you wouldn't be able to drive. What's your location? If you're in the US, you don't have a RWD option.

[ShottsUZJ100]

He said "when he turns off the VSC". The only way to do that is to LOCK the CDL. VSC has nothing to do with it. VSC would also cut power and activate certain brakes so when going straight it would wipe you out.

My guess is TC or Tranny.

[ShottsUZJ100]

How many miles?

[chauncey]

It has about 150,000 miles.

[ShottsUZJ100]

150K? My guess? TC or tranny.

[1loudLX]

Originally Posted by chauncey

If I put the truck into "normal" drive operation, I can hear clunking noises and the car does not drive.

thats, transfer case in HI, shifter in D and CDL turned off?

[MoJ]

Originally Posted by chauncey

Hello everyone. I am having a problem with my 2000 Landcruiser and would like help in determining the problem. If I put the truck into "normal" drive operation, I can hear clunking noises and the car does not drive. If I turn of VSC, the car drives fine. Also, when the VSC is off, the car seems to "slip" during cornering and hills.

I am thinking this is a transfer case problem but would like your thoughts before I start working on it. Any input would be greatly appreciated. THANK YOU ALL.

Just reading through the thread...if as shotts said, the only way to disable the VSC is to lock the center differential than you need to stop driving the truck on pavement until you get to the root cause. Driving around on a high traction surface with the center diff locked can seriously damage your truck. It would also explain your comment about the truck feeling like it's slipping around corners.

[LandCruisers4Life]

Go backwards and get a 60 series without all the gadgets

[rusty_tlc]

Originally Posted by MoJ

Just reading through the thread...if as shotts said, the only way to disable the VSC is to lock the center differential than you need to stop driving the truck on pavement until you get to the root cause. Driving around on a high traction surface with the center diff locked can seriously damage your truck. It would also explain your comment about the truck feeling like it's slipping around corners.

I don't understand how this would hurt the truck. Please explain.

[Trunk Monkey]

My truck doesn't have VSC, but as for the center diff, locking it and driving on pavement doesn't allow the front drive shaft and rear drive shaft to turn at (slightly) different speeds. Just like on the rear axle only the open differential allows one wheel to turn more when turning a corner, the diff in the center allows for slight differentiation between the front and rear. If it's locked on dirt or gravel, the tires can slip easier than on pavement.

This was one advantage of adding the CDL switch to an 80. A couple times on the Moab slickrock with the truck in low range (center diff automatically locks) turning a tight circle on the rock would cause the tires to chirp and lurch. Being able to unlock the center in low alleviated that.

[rusty_tlc]

Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey

My truck doesn't have VSC, but as for the center diff, locking it and driving on pavement doesn't allow the front drive shaft and rear drive shaft to turn at (slightly) different speeds. Just like on the rear axle only the open differential allows one wheel to turn more when turning a corner, the diff in the center allows for slight differentiation between the front and rear. If it's locked on dirt or gravel, the tires can slip easier than on pavement.

This was one advantage of adding the CDL switch to an 80. A couple times on the Moab slickrock with the truck in low range (center diff automatically locks) turning a tight circle on the rock would cause the tires to chirp and lurch. Being able to unlock the center in low alleviated that.

How bad of damage would that cause? Sounds like what happens all the time in Lincoln locked rigs. About the only damage they see is faster tire wear.

[ShottsUZJ100]

Originally Posted by rusty_tlc

How bad of damage would that cause? Sounds like what happens all the time in Lincoln locked rigs. About the only damage they see is faster tire wear.

You can break parts. The more you do these things the more risk:

Turn
Apply gas
Higher friction surface

And IF you DON'T break parts you are wearing many things out due to added stress.

[Trunk Monkey]

Originally Posted by ShottsUZJ100

You can break parts.

What parts might break?

[ShottsUZJ100]

Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey

What parts might break?

Axles
Arms
Joints

Many components are stressed. The best thing for your 4WD vehicle is to run open CDL until it won't carry you on. Good thing the LC's are very stout and breakage is minimal. Locked CDL on pavement is asking for something to snap.

[Trunk Monkey]

Originally Posted by ShottsUZJ100

Axles
Arms
Joints

Many components are stressed. The best thing for your 4WD vehicle is to run open CDL until it won't carry you on. Good thing the LC's are very stout and breakage is minimal. Locked CDL on pavement is asking for something to snap.

Huh. Don't know what arms or joints would be compromised. Axles really wouldn't be in a bad spot since those diffs are still open. The main thing that would be stressed is the t-case, viscous coupling, u-joints, and drive shafts. And even then, the VC appears to be plenty stout from at least one report of someone driving without the center locked and one DS removed for 300 miles without issue (for now).

[ShottsUZJ100]

Whatever.....OK

[rusty_tlc]

Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey

Huh. Don't know what arms or joints would be compromised. Axles really wouldn't be in a bad spot since those diffs are still open. The main thing that would be stressed is the t-case, viscous coupling, u-joints, and drive shafts. And even then, the VC appears to be plenty stout from at least one report of someone driving without the center locked and one DS removed for 300 miles without issue (for now).

I drove 200 miles with the front DS out, drive flanges removed, and the CDL engaged but that is a different situation than we are discussing. With the FDS out you have essentially a 2WD rig. (However this might be a viable option for the OP if he needs to drive the rig until he can get it fixed. )
BTW I've covered several thousand miles of highway and a few hundred miles of trail since. I don't think I damaged anything driving the 200 miles.

I can see that driving for any length of time with the CDL locked and both O/P drives being used that the T-case might take some abuse. If you had to drive with the CDL locked for whatever reason it would seem that removing one drive shaft would be the best practice.

[Trunk Monkey]

Originally Posted by rusty_tlc

If you had to drive with the CDL locked for whatever reason it would seem that removing one drive shaft would be the best practice.

Yes, absolutely. Locking the CDL keeps the viscous coupling from slipping. But, like I said, I know of an example of someone in an 80 that didn't do that and their VC is holding up for now.

And, if you drive in a straight line, there's no risk. I know of some people who claim to use the center diff locked in high to pull a boat out of the water.

[hoser]

Unfortunately, the 100 does not have a Viscous Coupler at the center differential.

[Trunk Monkey]

Originally Posted by hoser

Unfortunately, the 100 does not have a Viscous Coupler at the center differential.

Well, that shows my 80 series heritage. Thanks for the correction.

Looks like another thread where we may never hear back from the OP on what it really was.

[chauncey]

Well, this is the latest on this issue with my truck. This problem started happening about two weeks ago. I took the truck in to a Toyota dealership shop recently. After keeping my truck for two days, they told me "they did not know what to tell me." They had never experienced this sort of problem before.


What happened during Toyota inspection:

DAY 1: Brought truck in to shop with CDL locked, mechanic disengaged CDL lock and truck drove fine. I was told to pick up my truck from the dealership.

DAY 2: Arrived at the shop and service advisor told me that they drove the truck for a while and there were no problems with my truck. I drove the truck out of the lot and took a right turn. I then heard a "snap" and the car again stalled. I can hear and feel grinding and the truck would not move. I turned on the CDL lock and drove the truck back to the shop. When I got back to the shop, the mechanic turned off the CDL lock and was able to test drive it for about 10 minutes and then the problem came back. The mechanic described the problem was that something was forcing the transmission into "neutral" and that he had never experienced this sort of problem before. I left the truck over night again so they could try to find out what was causing the problem.

DAY 3: The service advisor told me that they changed the transmission and differential fluids and drove the truck for approximately 60 miles and the problem wouldn't happen. I took the truck home.

1 WEEK LATER: I experienced the problem again today, while on my way to work. Same problem that I mentioned above. I was only a few blocks away from home so I reversed back into my driveway. I turned the car off then back on again and was able to engage the transmission into "D" again with no problems.

WHAT IS GOING ON??? Any help from you all would be greatly appreciated. THANK YOU.

[Trunk Monkey]

I wonder if the t-case and/or center diff is binding up and causing the tranny to jump gear? That would explain what you describe as the truck "slipping" around corners.

[rusty_tlc]

Is the 100 transmission 100% electronic controlled?

[macneill]

Works for me...

Originally Posted by LandCruisers4Life

Go backwards and get a 60 series without all the gadgets