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Old 05-01-08, 02:21 PM   #1
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ARB Roof Rack Mounts

I just got off the phone with Man-A-Fre, who were NO help. I ordered the ARB roof rack mounts for my 100 a while back. Now I took the factory rack off, and guess what? The front two mount holes on the roof are closer together than the holes on the mounting bracket. Over $200 for a few pieces of steel, and they can't even ship me shit that fits.

To top it off, they told me to call ARB.


I'm not ordering from Man-A-Fre again. Their "we don't make it, we just sell it" attitude goes a long way for me not being interested in buying from them again.


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Old 05-01-08, 02:30 PM   #2
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Hmm,

Did you see the thread in chat about MAF?

I too made the mistake of ordering from them before

Any pics of those mounts? Perhaps they are for a different model...


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Old 05-01-08, 02:34 PM   #3
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I just got off the phone with Man-A-Fre, who were NO help. I ordered the ARB roof rack mounts for my 100 a while back. Now I took the factory rack off, and guess what? The front two mount holes on the roof are closer together than the holes on the mounting bracket. Over $200 for a few pieces of steel, and they can't even ship me shit that fits.

To top it off, they told me to call ARB.


I'm not ordering from Man-A-Fre again. Their "we don't make it, we just sell it" attitude goes a long way for me not being interested in buying from them again.
I have the ARB rack and the front mounts are not in the same place as the factory mounts. You have to lift up the black trim that runs down the length of the roof, there are mounting holes that line up with the ARB mount location under this trim. I had to cut out square slots for the ARB mounts and put covers over the factory slots.

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Old 05-01-08, 02:44 PM   #4
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ARB dropped the ball too. I saw that these plastic things do move here.... I am going to have a look. Worst case scenerio, find a machine shop and have the holes elongated to fit the holes in the roof.

The distance between holes in the front two mounts is 2 3/4 from center to center, while the middle and rear are 3 1/8 center to center.

ARB says "No 100 is ever the same, there are 6 different mounting positions blah blah blah....."

Don't you just love excuses for why their stuff doesn't fit??? Lemme get off here and see what I can do.


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Old 05-01-08, 02:52 PM   #5
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I just drilled new holes to match the rack holes, simple. Their stuff fits great. Again, it's not designed for the US truck, so don't cry when you have to adapt it a little.


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Old 05-01-08, 02:52 PM   #6
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I'm not quite sure what you are talking about but I got a Outback rack from Slee that was mounted to a 100. I got new brackets to fit my 80. I have all the old hardware and have no use for it. It's yours if you think it will help.


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Old 05-01-08, 02:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomp6 View Post
I have the ARB rack and the front mounts are not in the same place as the factory mounts. You have to lift up the black trim that runs down the length of the roof, there are mounting holes that line up with the ARB mount location under this trim. I had to cut out square slots for the ARB mounts and put covers over the factory slots.

Mike
Ok I did that - no other mounting holes on my particular vehicle. Going to have to figure out a way to modify the mounts. I don't have a rotozip or drill press so have to either find a shop or go to the store.


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Old 05-01-08, 02:55 PM   #8
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I just drilled new holes to match the rack holes, simple. Their stuff fits great. Again, it's not designed for the US truck, so don't cry when you have to adapt it a little.
Simple if you have a drill press. The point is they sold me shit that doesn't fit. For more than $200, the stuff should bolt right up. Now I have to go buy a tool or find a shop to have the holes elongated. Total BS.


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Old 05-01-08, 03:02 PM   #9
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Simple if you have a drill press. The point is they sold me shit that doesn't fit. For more than $200, the stuff should bolt right up. Now I have to go buy a tool or find a shop to have the holes elongated. Total BS.
Who needs a drill press? I used a cordless drill and two bits (one pilot hole, one the correct size), took 5 minutes. The shit fits the truck it was intended for, a non-US truck. Since you're putting it on a truck that it's not intended for, you're going to have to modify the truck or the part. And why the hassle with machining them and elongating them? Mark where the bolt hole is and drill a new hole. If you elongate the rubber underneath you're going to have an exposed lip, which you won't with a new hole.


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Old 05-01-08, 03:08 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LandCruisers4Life View Post
Simple if you have a drill press. The point is they sold me shit that doesn't fit. For more than $200, the stuff should bolt right up. Now I have to go buy a tool or find a shop to have the holes elongated. Total BS.
Don't ever try to do an engine conversion if you get frustrated by little things like this.

It isn't just the Australian trucks that are different from US spec trucks. There are different versions of the factory roofracks on US spec'd 100s too. I'm guessing you have a newer one. Drilling a couple of holes is a simple solution. Sending you a rack designed for a different body would be much worse and you could definitely be dealing with that right now.


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Old 05-01-08, 03:55 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Who needs a drill press? I used a cordless drill and two bits (one pilot hole, one the correct size), took 5 minutes. The shit fits the truck it was intended for, a non-US truck. Since you're putting it on a truck that it's not intended for, you're going to have to modify the truck or the part. And why the hassle with machining them and elongating them? Mark where the bolt hole is and drill a new hole. If you elongate the rubber underneath you're going to have an exposed lip, which you won't with a new hole.
You're right about elongating the holes with the rubber seals. I'll just have to mark em and re-drill.

I got one on. I am modifying the rubber which sat underneath the original rack feet. to go around the new ones. I put in the new hex bolts with loc-tite and put liquid electric tape around the bolt head at the top for extra measure.

As far as these mounts going on a truck not intended for, it would have been nice for Man-A-Fre to state something about this on the web page before selling so I knew I might have to do some modifications. They might sell them for a few bucks cheaper as well since the customer has to do modifications on their end. I can see $100 for this kit, but over $200 and having to do modifications is total BS.


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Old 05-01-08, 04:04 PM   #12
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MAF have known about this problem when they sold me my rack over 4 years ago.

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You're right about elongating the holes with the rubber seals. I'll just have to mark em and re-drill.

I got one on. I am modifying the rubber which sat underneath the original rack feet. to go around the new ones. I put in the new hex bolts with loc-tite and put liquid electric tape around the bolt head at the top for extra measure.

As far as these mounts going on a truck not intended for, it would have been nice for Man-A-Fre to state something about this on the web page before selling so I knew I might have to do some modifications. They might sell them for a few bucks cheaper as well since the customer has to do modifications on their end. I can see $100 for this kit, but over $200 and having to do modifications is total BS.
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Old 05-01-08, 04:23 PM   #13
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I guess I just don't see drilling two holes as a big deal. And, I'd suggest a healthy blob of silicon on the bolt holes before you thread the bolt in. Water leaks are bad.


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Old 05-01-08, 04:48 PM   #14
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I'm not quite sure what you are talking about but I got a Outback rack from Slee that was mounted to a 100. I got new brackets to fit my 80. I have all the old hardware and have no use for it. It's yours if you think it will help.
If he doesn't take them, I'll buy them off of you.


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Old 05-01-08, 05:49 PM   #15
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If he doesn't take them, I'll buy them off of you.

Beat me to it!


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Old 05-01-08, 05:52 PM   #16
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You guys are killin me. I am thread locking the bolts, and then putting liquid electric tape over the bolts on top.


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Old 05-01-08, 05:53 PM   #17
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I guess I just don't see drilling two holes as a big deal. And, I'd suggest a healthy blob of silicon on the bolt holes before you thread the bolt in. Water leaks are bad.
FOR $200 I see it as a big deal.


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Old 05-01-08, 10:35 PM   #18
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Ok get this. The bolts that came with the mounts are too short. I decided to re-use the rubber gaskets which were still in place on the roof over the mounting holes. I took off the original bracket and went to the parts store and decided to get some black RTV silicon gasket maker and cover the existing rubber gaskets with that and bolt the mounts down. So..... The center ones go off without a problem with lock washers and all. The rear ones don't. You can get a lock washer on one side, but the bolts aren't long enough to give enough play to use a lock washer on the other side. So I'm not going to worry too much about one lock washer as I put black RTV on the threads of all the bolts too. Also covered each bolt head with liquid electric tape (liquid plastic, same thing). I got 4 brackets on. Tomorrow I gotta measure out the holes for the front two mount brackets.

I had a problem re-using the rubber over the holes in the center, so I'll be doing something else with those, but I did re-use the rubber for the rear corners, and I'll be re-using the rubber for the front corners. The rubber that just covers the area of the holes for visual purposes that is. I put some black RTV silicon down the underside of each piece and attached it right to the roof around the bracket, and it looks pretty good. Looks better than just a bracket sticking out of a hole.

I wouldn't be so ticked about the brackets, except for two reasons. First, they weren't cheap. Second, I didn't like all the running around I got from both Man-A-Fre, and then from ARB USA. Making excuses for a product that should fit the first time out of the box is out of the question. I am the type of person that believes if you buy the best, or something from a high quality manufacturer and pay a good deal of money for it - it better perform.


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Old 05-01-08, 10:39 PM   #19
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MAF have known about this problem when they sold me my rack over 4 years ago.
The idiot on the phone I talked to didn't even understand what I was talking about. He thought I was trying to mount something to the factory rack bars- after I had told him that I just took off the factory rack..... He then went and spoke with the 'manager' and said he was going to put him on the line. After 4 minutes or so, the same guy comes back on and says he doesn't have an answer for me, and the manager is too busy to speak with me. He says they just sell parts, they don't make em, and suggests I call ARB usa...... duh. So I called ARB usa and same bullshit run around.

I'm glad my life doesn't depend on some of these people or I'd be dead already.


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Old 05-01-08, 11:11 PM   #20
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ARB should make some kind of warning to US spec LC owners that there will need to be modifications to make the thing fit properly. Seeing that this is surely not the first time an owner has gone through this BS is inexcusable. Poorly done by ARB IMO. Maybe they should not offer the thing for USA spec LC's !! Or maybe they should offer some kind of template, etc. Whether or not the modifications to make it fit are easy or difficult is irrelevant.....



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Old 05-02-08, 12:31 AM   #21
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The ARB rep at ARB USA was telling me they were thinking of not selling the mounts, or the 100 racks.

That makes sense right? Just get rid of the product and the problem goes away? That's stupid. A company that had any concern would as you say, make some sort of consolation, have an American import version.

This ARB guy was making all kinds of wild statements. Telling me that no two 100s are alike. Even going as far to say that three or more of the mounts could have different widths between the holes. That's the most ridiculous thing I ever heard of.

The holes on the two front mounts were 2 3/4" apart. All the rest of the mounts, were 3 1/8" apart (center to center). All the ARB mounts were drilled for 3 1/8" separation center to center.

1st the problem with the mounts.

2nd, the bolts are too short. They should be about 1/2 inch longer to account for the extra washers ARB sent with the mounts.

3rd, unacceptable customer dis-service from both Man-A-Fre, and ARB usa.

All with a $200 + price tag and no vaseline.


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Old 05-02-08, 04:48 AM   #22
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All with a $200 + price tag and no vaseline.
hey man, you gotta pay to play....


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Old 05-02-08, 07:05 AM   #23
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hey man, you gotta pay to play....


Any pics of the install yet?


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Old 05-02-08, 08:15 AM   #24
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I wouldn't have a problem if they told me upfront the rack would require mods. If they didn't do that, then they are at major fault in my opinion. That is an expensive rack to have to start drilling on! It will work, just would be nice to know beforehand. Good luck.


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