Front differential self disintegration … any ideas?

[morrissey]

So I’m looking for help finding parts that are not going to be crazy expensive. Last weekend I was wheeling near home (Vancouver BC) and I put my 100 into low 4 with the locker on for a gentle rock crawl and all of a sudden boom…. And all I hear is grinding and thumping. So I got the truck out of the bush as best I could, but now my mechanic is telling me 2700$ Canadian and 3 weeks to get parts out of the US to repair it.
Has anyone had this happen? Does anyone know how to go about fixing this on the cheap?
I have a few theories about why this happened as well…
1. Last year I was wheeling and I broke the front right CV joint at the tire, because I was witching hard straight ahead and my GF was steering hard left and giving more gas then she should have. I had the entire axle replaced at the time because I was in the middle of nowhere and didn’t want any further problems. However I had always had a murmur at high speeds while turning after that and 3 separate mechanics had been unable to identify anything.
2. Aggravating this I was towed (due to parking Violation) in February and I have reason to believe my truck was put in neutral and towed without boggy wheels I have been told this can be a dif killer as well.
3. This time is the first time I have used the locker in low range since last year’s incident as well…
So that’s my sad story, please help me out. I have had 5 other older landcruisers ( 40, 45’s and 60’s) and never had a mechanical problem but this one is starting to hurt the pocket book and the ego every time I take it out… (This particular occasion I got showed up by a jeep Cherokee!)

[ringpinion.biz]

Which locker? center diff, rear diff, or do you also have an arb up front? What year?


100 into low 4 with the locker on

Originally Posted by morrissey

So I’m looking for help finding parts that are not going to be crazy expensive. Last weekend I was wheeling near home (Vancouver BC) and I put my 100 into low 4 with the locker on for a gentle rock crawl and all of a sudden boom…. And all I hear is grinding and thumping. So I got the truck out of the bush as best I could, but now my mechanic is telling me 2700$ Canadian and 3 weeks to get parts out of the US to repair it.
Has anyone had this happen? Does anyone know how to go about fixing this on the cheap?
I have a few theories about why this happened as well…
1. Last year I was wheeling and I broke the front right CV joint at the tire, because I was witching hard straight ahead and my GF was steering hard left and giving more gas then she should have. I had the entire axle replaced at the time because I was in the middle of nowhere and didn’t want any further problems. However I had always had a murmur at high speeds while turning after that and 3 separate mechanics had been unable to identify anything.
2. Aggravating this I was towed (due to parking Violation) in February and I have reason to believe my truck was put in neutral and towed without boggy wheels I have been told this can be a dif killer as well.
3. This time is the first time I have used the locker in low range since last year’s incident as well…
So that’s my sad story, please help me out. I have had 5 other older landcruisers ( 40, 45’s and 60’s) and never had a mechanical problem but this one is starting to hurt the pocket book and the ego every time I take it out… (This particular occasion I got showed up by a jeep Cherokee!)

[morrissey]

I only have the factory centre dif locker....

[ShottsUZJ100]

The know weakness in the 100 is the front diff (mainly 98-99 model years). You became another victim and the recommended fix is to slap in a front ARB diff rather than a Toyota. That will ready your rig for the trail.

You winching story also brings some thoughts to mind:

1. There have been almost ZERO front CV failures on the 100's. They may have been worn/contaminated already and therfore went.
2. Winching the way you did puts A LOT of stress on the front diff/R&P gears. Breakage can occur on the 100 or 80 in this scenario. Maybe things were weakened from this event.

If you replace your front diff with an ARB you are ready to go. It'll cost some change but be life-long worth it. I'd also suggest you add the rear locker while you're at it. Once triple locked you'll have the best trail rig.

[morrissey]

I dont supose you know about where i would go about geting the arb diff? parts numbers and suck would be great. if in gona spend the money i might as wel go for gold right! thanks for your help!

Greg

[forcedinductionz]

I'm down in Bellingham, I know a guy he is a dealing for ARB. I can contact him for you if you'd like?

[sleeoffroad]

Originally Posted by ShottsUZJ100

1. There have been almost ZERO front CV failures on the 100's.

Keep believing that. It should give you piece of mind

They may have been worn/contaminated already and therfore went.

Without knowing if the shaft snapped or the joint failed there is no way to know if it was a wear issue or a strength issue.

Most likely the shock load back onto the ring and pinion when the axle brake cracked a tooth or stressed it. This happens a lot or axle failures. This time you stressed it enough to finally break it.

Fitting an ARB would not have made any difference in this kind of scenario, other than possibly preventing the situation that broke the axle initially due to better traction and less need for the skinny pedal.

The ARB forces both wheels to spin at the same speed so you partially eliminate the situations where you have a wheel spinning violently and then suddenly grabbing traction.

If you replace your front diff with an ARB you are ready to go. It'll cost some change but be life-long worth it. I'd also suggest you add the rear locker while you're at it. Once triple locked you'll have the best trail rig.

I agree that the ARB is a good thing to install, but I do not believe it is a fix for a front end that is too small for the truck.

[ringpinion.biz]

We have them in stock. We also do service work as well, and are located in wa state. Call, email, or PM

Originally Posted by morrissey

I dont supose you know about where i would go about geting the arb diff? parts numbers and suck would be great. if in gona spend the money i might as wel go for gold right! thanks for your help!

Greg

[ShottsUZJ100]

Originally Posted by sleeoffroad

Keep believing that. It should give you piece of mind

I believe () that on this forum we've only heard of a handfull. Compared to the thousands of rides out there who are just driving or wheeling this breakage was while winching. I bet the winching was to blame. I know of 80 owners who won't winch this way and they won't strap people from the front. They fear breakage as well. Isn't this because the gears are reverse cut?

[morrissey]

[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif']Just to clarify I am being told to put an ARB locker in... ARB does not make ring and pinion do they? If I got that right any one no any were that I can get those parts cheep? i would love to put all the fancy stuff in while I have it all apart, but at this point I just need my truck on the road... I live an hour from town and only have the truck and my bicycle![/font]
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif'][/font]
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif']Another note too... does anyone know anything about the difference between LX100 and Land cruiser gears? Could I put the later in my cruiser? My mechanic says no, but I thought they were the same truck.[/font]
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif'][/font]
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif']Thanks for all the help folks! Keeps it coming!![/font]

[Campfire]

There are different possibilties for failure up front. The ring and pinion can brake, the spider (or side gears) can fail, or the pinion shaft can shear off causing catostrophic damage like mine. If you're bored, read my nightmare here. The axles can loose the Birfield joints also,but get it diagnosed at another shop to be sure. Just don't fork over $2700 and think it's fine.

I would try to get it to R&P Biz in Washington and have them do it if your not a do it yourselfer.


Good luck, and I feel your pain.

[LandCruisers4Life]

Originally Posted by ringpinion.biz

We have them in stock. We also do service work as well, and are located in wa state. Call, email, or PM

Just to let you all know, when it comes time and I have the money (should be before the end of this year), Carl is doing my 4.88s and ARB set up. He's doing the solid pinion spacers etc.

Expensive but worth it I say.

[LandCruisers4Life]

Just get with Carl - JT (ring&pinion biz) and he should get you all straightened out.

Originally Posted by morrissey

[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif']Just to clarify I am being told to put an ARB locker in... ARB does not make ring and pinion do they? If I got that right any one no any were that I can get those parts cheep? i would love to put all the fancy stuff in while I have it all apart, but at this point I just need my truck on the road... I live an hour from town and only have the truck and my bicycle![/font]
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif'][/font]
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif']Another note too... does anyone know anything about the difference between LX100 and Land cruiser gears? Could I put the later in my cruiser? My mechanic says no, but I thought they were the same truck.[/font]
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif'][/font]
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif']Thanks for all the help folks! Keeps it coming!![/font]

[LandCruisers4Life]

PS - There is no cheap. If you get it repaired right with Carls expertise behind you, it will save you headaches in the future. Cheap isn't a good thing.

Just do it right.

PSS- I once rode a mountain bike for 6 months to save up enough money to have my FJ40 repaired at the dealer. It came down to nothing much, but I couldn't trace the problem and figured I better have a WAD of money to take it to the dealer to diagnose and repair. 6 months, riding a mountain bike 30 miles a day to work/home (15 each way). That was when my 40 was my daily driver.

[ringpinion.biz]

Keep in mind that we are not expensive either! Expensive if comparing to working on a jeep, but hardpressed to find for less $ when working on an LC

Originally Posted by LandCruisers4Life

PS - There is no cheap. If you get it repaired right with Carls expertise behind you, it will save you headaches in the future. Cheap isn't a good thing.

Just do it right.

PSS- I once rode a mountain bike for 6 months to save up enough money to have my FJ40 repaired at the dealer. It came down to nothing much, but I couldn't trace the problem and figured I better have a WAD of money to take it to the dealer to diagnose and repair. 6 months, riding a mountain bike 30 miles a day to work/home (15 each way). That was when my 40 was my daily driver.

[morrissey]

So as of now this is the plan...
At this point the truck is at a mechanics shop, and i have not really even looked at it. What i am wondering is can you tell me what questions i need to ask to make sure that i know exactly what i will need to get replaced parts wise? just to make sure im not getting jiped.

At this point im thinking i will buy what i need from Carl and then instal them here with a budy who has the know how... I was thinking that it would be great to get it done at his shop, but i have no idea how to tow a truck acros the border, without having huge issues.

Unless someone has a bright idea about how to drive it in two wheel drive??? is that posible?

Thanks for all your help folks!

[LandCruisers4Life]

Buy a complete 3rd member from Carl and drop it in. If you're keeping stock gears and 33" tires or less you're alright. Get the 100 front diff special...... 3rd member complete with gears, and arb air locker, solid pinion spacers..... that's what you need.

[morrissey]

So i am doing the complete new unit root, getting it from Carl then instaling here. Should do well. Thank you all for your help, its nice to know i can get this much good advice so fast if i need it!

Cheers!
Greg

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by morrissey

So i am doing the complete new unit root, getting it from Carl then instaling here. Should do well. Thank you all for your help, its nice to know i can get this much good advice so fast if i need it!

Cheers!
Greg

Be sure to get the needle bearings that are housed in the steering knuckle assembly lubed while you have the CV axles out (one needle bearing per knuckle). Its an easy one to overlook.

[rusty_tlc]

Originally Posted by morrissey

So as of now this is the plan...
At this point the truck is at a mechanics shop, and i have not really even looked at it. What i am wondering is can you tell me what questions i need to ask to make sure that i know exactly what i will need to get replaced parts wise? just to make sure im not getting jiped.

At this point im thinking i will buy what i need from Carl and then instal them here with a budy who has the know how... I was thinking that it would be great to get it done at his shop, but i have no idea how to tow a truck acros the border, without having huge issues.

Unless someone has a bright idea about how to drive it in two wheel drive??? is that posible?

Thanks for all your help folks!

Since it hasn't been mentioned I'll jump in here.
If you pull the drive flanges on the front hubs, drop the front drive shaft out, and lock the center diff you can drive your rig without doing any further damage. I drove my rig home 200 miles at highway speeds that way.