ARB Fridge tie down ideas (need HELP)

[Zane]

So I have an ARB fridge that I will be using this weekend. I do not have a rear drawer system built yet, so I'm looking for how others have tied down their fridge in their rigs without a drawer system or platform. Thinking about removing the second row seat on the passenger side and putting the fridge there. Anyone done this? How would you strap it down?

Zane

[Trunk Monkey]

Long ratchet strap run through both fridge handles and into the cargo area tie downs.

[Zane]

That was my first thought, but it would place the fridge in the center of the cargo area and take up a ton of space. Would like to put it to the far left or far right of the cargo area, but then the straps would be pulling down on one side of the fridge only keeping it from tipping one way???

[sleeoffroad]

We use these with turn buckles. Putting it where you mentioned works good. Use some 2" or so flat stock and make some tiedown points that you bolt in where the seat brackets go

[Trunk Monkey]

Originally Posted by Zane

Would like to put it to the far left or far right of the cargo area, but then the straps would be pulling down on one side of the fridge only keeping it from tipping one way???

If you snug it up too much it tilts the fridge, just the right amount keeps it very snug to the floor and takes care of my main concern, it becoming a projectile in a roll. You could also hook the ratchet hooks on the handles and weave the strap through the 3rd row anchor points.

I have mad Paint skillz.

[SpokaneLX470]

Duct tape.

[LandCruisers4Life]

Originally Posted by Zane

So I have an ARB fridge that I will be using this weekend. I do not have a rear drawer system built yet, so I'm looking for how others have tied down their fridge in their rigs without a drawer system or platform. Thinking about removing the second row seat on the passenger side and putting the fridge there. Anyone done this? How would you strap it down?

Zane

Funny you should mention that. I was also thinking to remove that seat and mount an ARB fridge there too. It seems like the perfect place. I'm not a big fan of drawer systems, they seem like they take up a lot of space and add a lot of extra un-necessary weight. I was thinking to build a little platform to bolt down where the seat was and attach the fridge to that platform. Could make a tray with 2" sides and foam rubber on the inside of those 2" sides to snuggly fit the fridge there so no bolting would be necessary. Unless you're doing some crazy stuff, then make some sort of strap system too.

[Boston Mangler]

I used standard turnbuckles like Slee is showing, but flipping the handle upside down prevents the need for those little bracket thingys and you can get the nice turnbuckles @ home depot

I dipped the ends of mine in TOOL DIP plastic coating to prevent scratching

Rock On

[sleeoffroad]

The brackets allow you to still run the transit bag. Flipping the handles does not. Just a FYI.

[Boston Mangler]

Originally Posted by sleeoffroad

The brackets allow you to still run the transit bag. Flipping the handles does not. Just a FYI.

Huh? Yes it does, i ran a transit bag!

There are 4 small slits that need to be opened, but the bag has sewn renforcements in it for them

Here is one BEFORE the transit bag



Here is a closeup (all i got) of the little slit cut for the handle. As you can see the bag is design/setup for it

[ckkone]

I don't have the ARB, but here is my temp mounting solution. I used bungee cords and the floor hooks and seat mounts. For the power I ran 8ga. from my 2nd battery to the rear 12v socket.

[LandCruisers4Life]

I like that turnbuckle idea.....

[dclee]

I've tried using ratchet straps on the handles in the standard upright position. It put too much stress on the mounting points.

I've tried flipping the handles upside down to reduce the stress. Worked better, but then made it more difficult to carry the fridge around using the handles.

Best solution I've found is the AO kit that Christo sells (comes with the fridge slider). You keep the stock handles in the normal position for ease of carrying, but it comes with brackets and longer screws to mount under the handles, and the turnbuckles pull on these brackets. I just went out and snapped some pics, shown below:

[dclee]

A couple more...

[soberman001]

Related question for Derek. How did you get all those bolts through the floor to hold your sliding rack on your frig? I am installing a security box this weekend was didn't want to have to remove the gas tank or any other major surgery just to get some bolts put down.

Thoughts?

[Boston Mangler]

I will GUESS that the board its mounted to is bolted to the 3rd row seats mounting holes.

Can ya PM me some pics of your RSV bike? I used to race a CBR900RR back in the late 90's

[soberman001]

Originally Posted by Boston Mangler

I will GUESS that the board its mounted to is bolted to the 3rd row seats mounting holes.

Can ya PM me some pics of your RSV bike? I used to race a CBR900RR back in the late 90's

so you are saying that I pull the bolts out of the 3rd row mounts, and put in new bolts that are longer and can run through the rack?

let me see if I can figure out how to PM photos.

[dclee]

Originally Posted by soberman001

so you are saying that I pull the bolts out of the 3rd row mounts, and put in new bolts that are longer and can run through the rack?

Yup. Remove the plastic trim for each of the two mounting points for that side rear seat. Each mounting point has two bolts. Unbolt all four and measure where to drill holes in your slider platform (or whatever you want to bolt in there). Get longer bolts from the hardware store to take into account the thickness of your slider platform, and then bolt in your slider. Use big fender washers.

I used this same method on my 80 and it withstood all kinds of abuse. Plus, it leaves the OEM cargo tie-down hooks free for other things.

[soberman001]

Originally Posted by dclee

Yup. Remove the plastic trim for each of the two mounting points for that side rear seat. Each mounting point has two bolts. Unbolt all four and measure where to drill holes in your slider platform (or whatever you want to bolt in there). Get longer bolts from the hardware store to take into account the thickness of your slider platform, and then bolt in your slider. Use big fender washers.

I used this same method on my 80 and it withstood all kinds of abuse. Plus, it leaves the OEM cargo tie-down hooks free for other things.

I am not with my LC at this time. Are the bolts at each mounting point left right, or top bottom as you face the tailgate of the truck? In other words does it look like : or like .. when viewed from the back?

The thing I am mounting is unstable left/right so if the bolts ran left and right, that would help stabalize the thing.

[dclee]

Originally Posted by soberman001

I am not with my LC at this time. Are the bolts at each mounting point left right, or top bottom as you face the tailgate of the truck? In other words does it look like : or like .. when viewed from the back?

The thing I am mounting is unstable left/right so if the bolts ran left and right, that would help stabalize the thing.

There are four bolts in what ends up as a rectangular pattern. No worries about stability, at least for what I've mounted there. But they are narrower left to right, sort of like this (looking from overhead):

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[FirstToy]

Originally Posted by ckkone

I don't have the ARB, but here is my temp mounting solution. I used bungee cords and the floor hooks and seat mounts. For the power I ran 8ga. from my 2nd battery to the rear 12v socket.

The bungee cord will not do it. You need ratchet straps or turnbuckles, etc.
bungee will let the fridge fly and could really mess up your day if passengers aren't wearing helmets

[soberman001]

Originally Posted by dclee

There are four bolts in what ends up as a rectangular pattern. No worries about stability, at least for what I've mounted there. But they are narrower left to right, sort of like this (looking from overhead):

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Perfect. Thanks

[tmarx]

I don't have the ARB fridge but I would not use bungycord.Have been using turnbuckles and roundeyed shoulder bolts for a few years with absolutely no problems, even on the most corrugated roads

[Zane]

OK I took Christo's advice and used the rear seat bracket holes and cut a 1" x 1" square peace of aluminum tube and drilled holes for the bolts to create a really nice anchor point. If I had more time I would have used turn buckles, but I don’t. I think the ratchet straps will be fine. For the rear I used on of the existing 3rd row seat anchor points to attach the ratchet strap to.

Thanks for all the advice.

Zane

[ckkone]

Lucky for me that the roads at my local mall are smooth....

[sleeoffroad]

We just did an Engel fridge and transit bag and the new bags do not have the sticking in the spot where you cut the slits. Not sure when this change happened.