'99 LC, brakes pulsate around 40K miles?

[mabrodis]

First off this isn't my vehicle, it's my sister's, she and her (now ex) husband both had '99 Land Cruisers.

First one they got at about 50K miles brakes started to pulsate, took it to the dealer, paid $900...(makes me sick), new front rotors, pads ofcourse, etc...

Now on thier other '99 it has 44K miles and the brakes are started to pulsate. Nothing has ever been done to these vehicle (i.e. no brake fluid flush or anything). I am flying out to do all this work for her since it's cheaper for me to fly there and do the work and do it right than to have her take it somewhere...and she's very bright, once I show her the brake stuff, she'll never take it anywhere again.

But my question is, on a never before turned rotor, such as on her '99 now, can I just have the rotor turned to get rid of the pulsate (there should be enough thickness to turn it atleast once right?) ? I am debating turning or just buying new rotors and having them shipped to her. Also to compliate this I'm going on a weekend to her place, so it might not be easy to find a shop to turn them...

I do not have a factory manual for her '99 but I have a online subscription with exploded diagrams and such. However I can't tell exactly what I have to do to pull the rotors off, do I have to pull the front hubs off (remove wheel bearings, etc?) I don't think so but the diagram I saw is useless as to what goes where. Any advice?

I'm also going to do a full brake system flush, and 18 million other things while I'm there (all synthetic gearlube, grease everything, coolant flush, etc)...

I'm curious though is this pulsating normal for these vehicles? Well not 'normal' I'm sure, but common with systems left for years with no upkeep? She's had it happen on both vehicles with darn close to the same mileage...maybe just the way she drives..

Thanks in advance,
Mark Brodis

[e9999]

well, when I was looking for our 100, I ran into at least 2 or 3 out of 6 or 7 I test drove with pulsing brakes/steering wheel, also around the 40-50K. In one case, I had them measured and they were way out of plane.

Not that surprising, considering I just checked the wheel nults on the 03 after the dealer rotated the tires, and the difference in torque across the nuts was amazing. Must have used a ratty ole' air wrench or something...

That plus the weight, I guess it's probably pretty common.

E

[Augie]

Rear one are easy. You might need to loosen the parking brake adjuster and use 2 8MM bolt to pull it off. The front are different story. You need to pull the Hub and if replacing the rotor it might be easier to get new bearing race also.

Many people said it would not last long if turned but its wort a try. Most brake shop have the equipment to turn it on vehicle which makes it a lot easier and cheaper since you does not have to touch the bearing. Call them if they are willing to turn it on vehicle without doing any aditional work. If you going to take it off call around first. The center bore on the rotor are quite big and not all shop have adapter for it.

I highly recommend Axxis Metal master replacement pads since I believe they would reduce heat build due to shorter braking period.

[mabrodis]

I had never heard of turning the rotors while on the vehicle, that's clever. I would think that turning would be good but it seems like on a rotor which already pulsates, it would be very hard to have a mobile turning unit turn the rotor on the vehicle and get all that. I guess if it could be mounted very securely to something but seems like that would be a challenge.

Thanks...
Mark Brodis

[ace10]

here's one "on-vehicle" brake lathe that i've heard is particularly good.

http://www.hunter.com/pub/product/lathe/5071T/index.htm

[sleeoffroad]

Mark, fwiw, most 100 will warp the rear rotors first before the front. Don't ask my why.

[Jim_Chow]

I probably wouldn't bother turning the rotors. Being thinner, the rotors won't be able to dissipate the heat as easily, causing them to warp soon thereafter. I'd use this opportunity to upgrade the rotors to something like the DBA slotted or slotted brembo's.

[ELLTEE]

Find out WHY the brakes are pulsing and/or the rotors have uneven depositions (what's usually callled "warped").
My 99 had a sticky rear caliper that the Toy mechanics missed for the PO. When he traded up to a LX 470, and I bought it from the Lexus dealership, the Lexus mechanics found the bad caliper right away - covered under extended warranty.
There's plenty of iron in those 100 series rotors - you should be able to have then turned several times before you have to worry about thickness. And if you're going to change brake pad material, always have the rotors turned to remove the former pad deposits and break in your new pads and clear rotors.
For more on brake judder and proper break-in procedure, see this website:
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm

LT

[Cruiser_Nerd]

Went through the same thing with my '00 around 40k.

Front rotors can be turned, even though its IFS, you still end up with a rotor/hub/inner-outer bearing races when you pull it, so any shop can turn them (should be a thickness spec in the manual). Rears were a little funky because of the integral parking brake drum, my shop said they couldn't do it, and wouldn't let me at the lathe (they should be able to do it) so I bought new ones (NAPA) for a not so bad price. Only thing I had trouble sourcing local was the front wheel seals but if you order stuff in advance you're set.

For a daily driver, I would buy only Toyota pads, and replace the anti squeal shims and grease sold separately (cost as much as the pads) or you may be flying back in 10k miles. Moms are much less tolerant of squeals and noise.

Better read up on the ABS/Traction Control if you're going to open the hydraulics.

[mabrodis]

Cool, thanks for all the insight...I think I'm going with new rotors, around $75 each isn't bad, and if I turn the ones on there it's much more driving, finding a place to do it, picking up, etc...and it alone is not free. With new ones I can just sit my fat arse there and finish the whole thing in one shebang.

Curious why you are so set on Toyota pads? I have put only Autozone pads no my '97 and they have been great, and I've gone through 3 sets, all free life-time warrenty replacements, so my brakes cost me $20 about 3 years ago, and will give me pads for as long as I own the vehicle. Now that ofcourse doesn't address stopping concerns, but these pads have been atleast as good as the factory ones on mine, if not stopping better. Just my opinion...

I will put the anti squeal stuff on the backs...not sure if I'll bother with the shims or not..

About opening the hydraulics, I'm not worried to just bleed them, no different than my '97 as far as no traction control, etc...if you really want to bleed the brakes then you have to actuate the ABS pump, but I don't know any normal person who does that. I have thought about it though, if I could have the caliper on the rotor but not on the vehicle, so I could manually spin the axle, apply the brake, the computer would still see the axle spinning, and pulsate the brake, having the caliper on the rotor would keep the pistons from coming out...maybe I'll try that.

Thanks,
Mark Brodis

[Cruiser_Nerd]

I just know what didn't work for me. NAPA Gold? or Bendix pads with the red anti-squeal goo resulted in nasty looking wheels and a noisy brakes. After several cleanings and two pad changes I said screw it and went by the book (shim change required) with OEM pads. Toyota pads / shims / grease are quiet and relatively clean (the soccer mom does not want to be noticed because of brake dust and noise). As a daily driver I'd expect OEM to last at least as long as the original set. Just my opinion, and wishful thinking.

I used to use inexpensive Autozone pads on my 80 and was perfectly happy.

[Kalen]

Hi Mabrodis, I was reading about your rotor situation and was wondering if you could help me out with some information.

I just bought a used 2000 Landcruiser with the pulsating brake problem and a Toyota mechanic just told me that new OEM rotors cost $300 each, plus installation.

I was wondering were you got your $75 price for new rotors from?

Thank you.

[NMuzj100]

You might be interested in these....

DBA Rotors

[ShottsUZJ100]

My rotors have been turned twice now (both front and back) and with no problems. I'm at 80K so I plan on needing rotors next time out (though I've never had pulsing). With my success I'm staying stock. As for pulling rotors off the 100, my mechanic (non-Toyota Dealer) said they came off very similar to my 80. He had no problems whatsoever each time and charged me $40 front and $25 rear for labor and $12 a set for turning.

[Kalen]

I'm getting scammed.

You guys are the best.

Thanks for the information.

[NMuzj100]

Posted to benefit FAQ users -

Follow up on the original problem of this thread and some other vibration issues discussed here...

'99 with vibration and pulsating braking...