[Val678]

Hey,

So did some off-roading today so when we got back on the road and turned I heard a popping sound. So for example, when you turn right in a intersection the LX470 will go pop pop pop when its turning and everyone looks because it kinda sounds like a gun, it seem has if two things are hitting each other.

What could it be???

[archie]

Sounds like a CV joint. Check if the rubber boot is leaking where the axle meets the wheel.

[Val678]

It kinda looks wet, I also went through a slight river but it look wet on the right side!!!

[archie]

So you are saying that both sides of the each CV boot looks wet? Check if one side is "greasier" than the other. I suspect that the driver's CV boot is low on grease or the joint is damaged.

[Val678]

Only the right is wet!!!

[archie]

The river crossing could have washed what little original grease there was in the CV joint. Is there damage on the boot? Is it more greasy compared to the other side? Do you have an aftermarket lift?

[Val678]

Originally Posted by archie

The river crossing could have washed what little original grease there was in the CV joint. Is there damage on the boot? Is it more greasy compared to the other side? Do you have an aftermarket lift?

Just the Lexus AHC, there is no visible damage, maybe if I took the skidplate off I could get a better view. So far the rubber looks wet and when turn its big popping sound!!!

[100 TD]

Lets hope it's the CV, it could be worse, DIFF!

[Val678]

The Left side has grease on the shaft, the right side is clean!!!

I took the skidplate off, the diff looks normal, no parts falling off, 4wd seems to be working, I think...

[spressomon]

You need to remove the front drive shaft and with the wheels in the air turn the wheels to determine if its a CV or the front diff. I don't think I recall anyone here that has had a failed CV joint...possible...but I think the diff issue is a much more likely culprit.

[Val678]

I'll try that....so far I noticed the noise on the driverside....very mild at a slow speed when turning....the faster I go the louder and more violent it will become!!!

[Val678]

So after having a friend drive my car while turning I can see the left CV boot/hub jitter!!!

Hopefully its not a diff, lol

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by Val678

So after having a friend drive my car while turning I can see the left CV boot/hub jitter!!!

Hopefully its not a diff, lol

If it is the CV it must have been run dry...can you tell if there is a tear in one of the boots? FYI: Replacing the CV axle is not that bad of a job. You'll need a couple specialty type tools like good snap-ring pliers, a steering knuckle puller. You can get the OEM complete CV from SINCITY100 at a good price. Depending on mileage, etc., you may want to consider doing both sides and be done with it...

[LX470Pilot]

Several questions:

1. Why is it called 'CV Boot/Joint'?

2. If there is no tear in the boot, why would it leak? Is it a normal maintenance item?

3. Usually with this kind of heavy mechanical joint, the grease used is less than water soluble - if so, why would a simple water crossing have 'washed' it out?

4. What's the worst that could happen if currently in an audible/tactile 'pop' situation while turning hard at slow speeds, if you only refill the grease and tighten the clamp?

5. How does the joint connect to the axle from the differential/wheel sides? - If you replace the joint/boot on both sides, is that a de facto replacement of the whole axle?

6. Any idea how much a repair kit costs?

7. If a person decided to undertake the job themselves, about how long a time frame should be expected?

...

I think that's about it for now

-LX Pilot

[rusty_tlc]

Originally Posted by LX470Pilot

Several questions:

1. Why is it called 'CV Boot/Joint'?

2. If there is no tear in the boot, why would it leak? Is it a normal maintenance item?

3. Usually with this kind of heavy mechanical joint, the grease used is less than water soluble - if so, why would a simple water crossing have 'washed' it out?

4. What's the worst that could happen if currently in an audible/tactile 'pop' situation while turning hard at slow speeds, if you only refill the grease and tighten the clamp?

5. How does the joint connect to the axle from the differential/wheel sides? - If you replace the joint/boot on both sides, is that a de facto replacement of the whole axle?

6. Any idea how much a repair kit costs?

7. If a person decided to undertake the job themselves, about how long a time frame should be expected?

...

I think that's about it for now

-LX Pilot

1. CV is short for constant velocity the boot covers the joint and hold grease in and keeps dirt out. A CV is essentialy a ball and cage affair that is used to transfer power from the differential to the wheel and still allow it to turn.
2. If there is a tear in the boot it will allow the grease to leak out since it becomes fluid over time and with heat. A tear will also allow dirt inside which will cause wear of the moving parts. Lack of lubrication (grease ) will also cause wear in the joint. Since the boot is flexible it will naturally wear out over time. If it is replaced before the joint is run dry or contaminated the internal parts will not need to be replaced.
3. Water will emulsify the grease and cause it to become more fluid and run out of the joint.
4. If you are already hearing noises chances are you should replace the axle. BTW, the clamps are crimped and cannot be loosened/re-tightened.
5. You can replace the boot without replacing the joint, if it is not damaged.
6. The boot kit is about $25 from Sincity, it includes the boots, grease, and clamps.
7. I wouldn't do it with out the Factory service manual. First time through I would allow 2-3 hours to remove the axles, about 3 -4 to replace. I pulled my front PS axle in about an hour yesterday but I've been practicing the procedure a lot lately. Replacing the boots takes about 2 hrs per side to remove the old boot and install/repack the new boot. Allow an extra hour or so if it is your first time. Also it is a two person job, I wouldn't attempt re-assembly single handed.

As Spressomon mentioned you will need some specialty tools to do the job.

Edit:This isn't a Land Cruiser axle but it was the first CV picture I found, they all work pretty much the same.

[rusty_tlc]

Wiki article on CV joints.

[LX470Pilot]

Ok wow, great information.

But a little more clarification please:

The answers to 1-3 make perfect sense (and now I know what the heck CV means!)

The answer to 4 makes my hear sink, and leads to 5 which, while informative, didn't quite answer the question I was trying to ask:

If you replace the CV joint on both the Lt and Rt wheels, is this basically replacing the entire front axle? Meaning from Differential to Wheel on both sides?

Which leads to 6 - Ok for the boots, but how much for the axle itself? Since Val678 and I both have noise (his quite a bit worse than mine, as it happens at higher speeds and louder than mine) rusty_tlc's answer to 4 was to replace the axle.

7 - Oh I beleive it - WantaCruiser and I helped each other with our brakes back in November, and he needed to replace his rotors - let me tell anyone who doesn't know - it is a HUGE PITA if you don't have the proper snap-ring pliers, and if you don't have a 54mm socket, just forget it cause you'll be dead in the water.

Don't know what a steering knuckle puller is though - the tool used to remove a steering wheel? does this double as the 54mm socket?

Thanx!

P.S. - the snap-ring pliers must be the kind where you squeeze the handles together, and the jaws squeeze (as opposed to squeezing the handles and spreading the jaws) - Straight or 90degree jaws are ok - but if 90 degree, ensure there is at least 1/4" from the body to the tip of the jaws

[spressomon]

The CV shaft assembly IIRC was about $300 per side from CDan (before I knew SINCITY100) plus s/h from him (new Toyota OEM).

The CV shaft assembly has splines on either end that interface with the front diff (PS side) and the front diff extension tube (DS side). They extend through the spindles where they attach to the hub. The parts blow-ups from the FSM gives you a much better idea of what you're dealing with. Either RustyTLC or myself can post these up later...

FYI: When I did my 4.88 install, locker, etc. I went ahead and replaced my CV shaft assemblies...then I will rebuild my old CV shaft assembly to use as a trailside emergency part.

The Steering Knuckle Puller is just a robust puller...not going to use it for anything else though you gotta have it to do it right and to keep from damaging the ball joint rubbers (got mine from Tool King for about $65). The 54mm socket is what you need to remove the two locknuts that hold the hub to the spindle. As Rusty stated above: To rebuild the CV you'll need the FSM, some mechanical apptitude, patience, an extra pair of hands. However if you are positive the CV's are causing the "popping" I wouldn't waste my time rebuilding (boot kit and grease refresh is all you do) as the CV has more than likely been run dry.

[LX470Pilot]

OK, so I have a 'friend' with this popping situation.

This 'friend' doesn't have the cash to do $300 +s/h right now.

If this 'friend' just did the new boot/grease repair, would it at least stop any additional damage (with the caveat that a full replacement should be done ASAP)?

[Jim_Chow]

The toyota tie rod puller and/or pitman arm puller SST's would probably work. FYI, I had the local toyota dealer replace the CV boots on one side of my 4runner. Cost was $320 + $30 for the boot/grease kit (comes w/ inner & outer boots). LC will cost a little more. So if you have a toyota dealer do the work, figure maybe $400 list for the new CV joint and $350-400 labor or $750-800, my guess. If a lexus dealer, then maybe $1-1.2K.