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Old 04-16-07, 05:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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A few STOCK suspension questions...

Folks, not sure I dare to ask here (among all the modded LCs) but will try in any case;

Anyone know the spring rates on the stock rear coil springs? Mine are
- Right side: two green dots down low, and one green dot above
- Left side: two green dots down low, and one pink dot above

Truck seem to be leaning a bit to the left, possibly more up front.
Will try to provide more exact measurement soon, but my guess is that front left is close to an inch lower than the right. Can that easily be adjusted by tightening the front left t-bar?

If recommendation is to replace rear coils, (they have about 80K miles) how much "lift" can be expected from new (stock) coils? Reason for asking is that garage opening is LOW as it is and rubber seal around it sometimes touch the roof rack. Hence, few chances for any serious lift or 285s for me... (I like to park the truck inside).

Thnx
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Old 04-16-07, 06:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It should be the same spring rate. The height are slightly different. I believe the taller one on driver's side.
You could adjust the leaning by adjusting the torsion bar.
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Old 04-16-07, 07:14 PM   #3 (permalink)
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they have spacers you put on top of the coils to adjust height.

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Old 04-17-07, 06:59 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I would start by adjusting the t-bar that is lower. That will level out the front and may even affect the rear enough that it levels out too. Otherwise, you can purchase OME trim packers (poly spacers) in 5 mm and 10 mm heights to space out the rear coils. I doubt the rear coils are spent at 80K miles. Upgrading/replacing the shocks may not be a bad idea though. Several here have been very happy with the stock springs and Bilstein shocks.

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Old 04-17-07, 07:36 AM   #5 (permalink)
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based on the pictures you need to get some rustoleum and stop that rust under your LC.

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Old 04-17-07, 11:17 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Mine leans towards the driver's side with 102k. The dealer said it was less than 1/2 inch and "acceptable." Seems to drive fine, mostly annoying to look at.

GregB-- do you think shocks will fix the issue, or would you have to also utilize the t-bar adjustment and/or OME spacers?

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Old 04-17-07, 11:32 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Mine leans towards the driver's side with 102k. The dealer said it was less than 1/2 inch and "acceptable." Seems to drive fine, mostly annoying to look at.

GregB-- do you think shocks will fix the issue, or would you have to also utilize the t-bar adjustment and/or OME spacers?
Shocks won't change the stance at all; they don't support any weight. The t-bar adjustment and/or spacers on the rear coils is the way to go to correct a lean.

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Old 04-17-07, 11:40 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for the feedback guys. Will lift front left and try to tighten the t-bar.
Personally I'm happy with the stock springs, but rarely loads the truck to the max (only two in family + dogs). Shoicks are OK so far, but will consider the Bilsteins when the time comes.

SWUtah,
Surprised me also that the little surface rust is SOO visible in the photos. It looks really bad.
But, just did a "total crawl" under the entire vehicle (as part of replacing O2 sensor) and cleaned out "everything" (sand/mud on top of tank, cross beams, inside frame members, etc). Very little rust underneath. But will when we're getting closer to a few dry days/weeks go in again with a brush and clean it out even more before applying rustoleum.

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Old 04-17-07, 03:37 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Greg B View Post
Shocks won't change the stance at all; they don't support any weight. The t-bar adjustment and/or spacers on the rear coils is the way to go to correct a lean.
Cool-- thanks for the info.

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Old 04-17-07, 09:27 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Wellcraft19 View Post
Thanks for the feedback guys. Will lift front left and try to tighten the t-bar.
Personally I'm happy with the stock springs, but rarely loads the truck to the max (only two in family + dogs). Shoicks are OK so far, but will consider the Bilsteins when the time comes.

SWUtah,
Surprised me also that the little surface rust is SOO visible in the photos. It looks really bad.
But, just did a "total crawl" under the entire vehicle (as part of replacing O2 sensor) and cleaned out "everything" (sand/mud on top of tank, cross beams, inside frame members, etc). Very little rust underneath. But will when we're getting closer to a few dry days/weeks go in again with a brush and clean it out even more before applying rustoleum.
I do the rustoleum to my vehicles every spring, always looks new under there Had a Dodge pickup that came rusted underneath from the factory. Used the rustoleum on it and it looked great for many years. I know I'm a nut case when it comes to my vehicles. I found out this year that all the states are now using whats called salt on steroids, and it will rust the crap out of a vehicle in just a couple of years, another reason to keep ahead of the rust.

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Old 04-17-07, 11:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Could not agree more and once again thanks for the tip. Rustoleum is on the shopping list!

Luckily in WA state (or rather Puget Sound region) not much salt/de-icer is being applied. BUT, lived in Sweden for many years and the southern part of Sweden is the worst. Cars rust very "happily". Remember my dad fixing the rust damages on the car. It was an annual "routine" just to keep it from falling apart.

Hence, if you ever is looking for a Swedish vehicle, look for one that has been running in northen half of the country, where salt rarely is used (no need, roads kept snowcovered and studded tires are used in winter).

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Old 04-18-07, 09:50 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Just a reminder!

If you adjust the T-bars, have the wheel alignment checked...
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Old 04-18-07, 10:03 AM   #13 (permalink)

 
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WHEN PLAYING WITH T-BARS:

REMEMBER:

When raising one front side via t-bar adjust you lower the opposing rear side some. If you're having leaning issues it may take some time to dial in and you may need a 10mm trim pack or two in the rear. Also....get an alignment if you play with the T-bars.

Oh, and the opposite is true....if you raise a rear end via trim pack then the opposing front end will drop some and may need adjustment.
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Old 04-19-07, 09:24 AM   #14 (permalink)
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where do you get the trim packs? are they available in different sizes?

getting ready to put 285 toyos on mine, will need to boost the t-bars; the trim packs then level the rear?

thanks for the advice

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Old 04-19-07, 09:28 AM   #15 (permalink)
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where do you get the trim packs? are they available in different sizes?

getting ready to put 285 toyos on mine, will need to boost the t-bars; the trim packs then level the rear?

thanks for the advice

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I think 10mm OME spring packers are the thinnest available stateside; got mine from Slee. IIRC 5mm packers are not imported (ask Slee to be sure)?

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Old 04-19-07, 09:30 AM   #16 (permalink)

 
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I think 10mm OME spring packers are the thinnest available stateside; got mine from Slee. IIRC 5mm packers are not imported (ask Slee to be sure)?
That's what I've heard about the 5s. Too bad.
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Old 04-20-07, 02:17 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShottsUZJ100 View Post
WHEN PLAYING WITH T-BARS:

REMEMBER:

When raising one front side via t-bar adjust you lower the opposing rear side some. If you're having leaning issues it may take some time to dial in and you may need a 10mm trim pack or two in the rear. Also....get an alignment if you play with the T-bars.

Oh, and the opposite is true....if you raise a rear end via trim pack then the opposing front end will drop some and may need adjustment.
Shotts-- Don't mean to hijack, but is this (both the T-Bar adjustment and the trim pack install) difficult for an amateur mechanic to do? Mine only leans to the driver side by 1/4", front and back.

I'll search for instructions but first wanted to see if I could tackle this myself.

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Old 04-20-07, 02:26 PM   #18 (permalink)

 
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Originally Posted by johnroyale View Post
Shotts-- Don't mean to hijack, but is this (both the T-Bar adjustment and the trim pack install) difficult for an amateur mechanic to do? Mine only leans to the driver side by 1/4", front and back.

I'll search for instructions but first wanted to see if I could tackle this myself.
Adjusting the t-bars is easy. Even I/ME/JOHN has done it. Rear trim packs....my guys works on my springs. J
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Old 04-21-07, 08:17 AM   #19 (permalink)
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My 2000 LC was leaning 1 inch on the driver side front and rear. I took it to Big O, and for $20 they adjusted the T bar and did the alignment for another $60.
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Old 04-21-07, 08:29 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Clearance problems? Have you considered removing the roof rack?

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Old 04-21-07, 01:04 PM   #21 (permalink)
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No, need it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by calamaridog View Post
Clearance problems? Have you considered removing the roof rack?
Hi Calamaridog,

No, I actually use the roof rack quite a bit. Regular runs to HD and Lowe's for pipes, lumber, etc. So, removing it is not really an option. But did one day think lowering garage floor...

Now in the process for remodel (pitching roof and adding new entrance) and as part of that, there might even be a new carport in front of the garages. That carport will have room for "whatever" lift and rack I put on...

But, thanks for all and any that did provide input here. Very much appreciated! If rain stays away during the afternoon, I will adjust the t-bar.

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Old 04-22-07, 09:20 PM   #22 (permalink)
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man-a-fre sells the 10 and 5 mm trim packers. There listed as 80 series rear, but will fit the 100. like $10 each. Trim packers are also super easy. Remove lower shock mount. Remove upper diff breather mount. Hi lift frame or drive other side up rock and insert spacer above coil. 10min / 1.5 beer job.

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Old 04-23-07, 09:45 AM   #23 (permalink)

 
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1.5 beer job.
Awesome!
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