[spressomon]

Ok…these are all the tools I used for my 90k and starter replacement job. The blue pad is a backbacker’s closed cell sleeping pad (worth every penny!) that I used to drape over the radiator area to make it a little more comfortable leaning in and working. The Dremel was used to assist in the removal of the frozen A/C compressor to fan bracket bolt; the “Craftsman steering wheel puller kit” was used to pull the crank shaft s-belt pulley; blue tape to mark certain hoses (use permanent marker to code hoses “A”, “B”, etc.; as much light as you can get/have; lots of disposable latex gloves, the magnetic extension is a must, pad of paper & pen for notes along the way, zip-loc bags for grouping of common component bolts, nuts, etc. Not included in the pic are: 5-gallon bucket to catch coolant, large piece of cardboard or plastic/metal tray to catch fluid spatter if it matters, creeper, acetone for cleaning parts, gasket surfaces, air intake, etc., 242 Loctite, paper towels, rags, cardboard cut to the size of the radiator (assuming you do not, like me, remove the radiator) & The Right Stuff (Permatex) gasket material (“FPG”). And of course the FSM: I found the FSM for all this work to be a general guide; however don’t rely on it for minutia details like where certain bolts, nuts, hoses go, etc. And I followed the FSM regarding using the crank at 50 degrees ATDC; however when I do this job again, personally, I’ll just tear down and reassemble at 0 degrees TDC.

Note: Be sure to either take pics or make notes where certain bolts and threaded studs go when you are disassembling; this will save you time on the other side when you are reinstalling and trying to remember what goes where!

Note: Remove the fan from the fan bracket when the engine is relatively hot. Otherwise you won’t have anything to leverage against if you have one or more of the four fan to fan bracket nuts that is/are stubborn to remove.


Pic #1: Most of the tools I needed.

Pic #2: Backpacker's closed cell sleeping pad used to as a cushion.

Pic #3: Cardboard protector for radiator (if you leave the radiator intact as I did)

[spressomon]

These pics show the smog pump and alternator moved out of the way (I did not completely remove either); used the double hooked hold down strap to hold the smog pump up and out of the way. And the puller and crank s-belt puller.

[spressomon]

This is a pic from above of the stubborn fan bracket that made my life a little more miserable on this job. I had to remove the electrical wire bracket (held in place by two small, short Philips head screws shown at the top of the arrow)…but unless you have an issue like I did I would recommend just leaving this wire bracket in place and bending the top ‘hook’ of the bracket out of the way to allow removal of the fan bracket. Note: There are two (2) bolts holding the fan bracket to the A/C compressor: The lower one is accessed through the DS inner fender area (move or remove the plastic access panel on the inner fender wall from the tire side) and the upper one I accessed with a flex head 3/8” ratchet from the engine bay side.

[spressomon]

I needed the large flat blade screwdriver to gently break the water pump loose.

[spressomon]

Be sure to have on hand and replace the smaller “O” ring that sits behind and connects to the back of the water pump; the other larger “O” ring that also gets replaced fits onto the thermostat housing that is inserted into the larger hole just to the left of the water pump bypass shown below.

[spressomon]

This is the “dimple” that you use to align the new t-belt. On mine there was also a blotch of white paint (immediately to the right of the threaded hole in the pic below just to add a little confusion ;-)). Be sure to set the t-belt exactly as shown below.

[spressomon]

I replaced the t-belt tensioner with a new one which came already pressed and held by a pin. Whatever you do DO NOT PULL THIS PIN UNTIL YOU HAVE THE TENSIONER INSTALLED AND BOLTS TORQUED (otherwise you will need a press to press the pin back down).

[spressomon]

This is the PS (“RH” as the FSM refers to it) side cam pulley. Note the alignment marks on the casting and the belt: This is at 0 degrees TDC. Note: When you install the t-belt you will start at the crank pulley, aligning to the dimple on the crank t-belt pulley, then loop up around the two middle pulleys following up and over the PS side cam pulley. Then you will need to rotate the DS cam pulley to create enough slack to slide the t-belt up onto the pulley itself: Be certain the DS is aligned, after belt installation, just like the PS in the photo below. Spin the crank twice to make sure when the crank is at 0 degrees TDC the groove in both camshaft pulleys (as shown below) align with the raised mark on the casting as shown below. Both sides have to be in alignment…otherwise you did not install it properly. Note: The white paint marks on the belt will not be in any particular alignment once you rotate the crank from your t-belt install position (hence the white mark on the belt in this picture is not aligned with the white mark and groove on the cam pulley since I took this pic after I rotated the crank twice after the initial installation of the t-belt).

[spressomon]

Upon reassembly of the waterpump this small dust shield is easy to miss…and if you forget you will need to remove everything you’ve installed after this point to get it installed (ask me how I know this…go ahead!).

[spressomon]

Be sure to get the bolt, threaded stud and cam sensor back on correctly.

[spressomon]

While I was at it I went ahead and replaced the starter. I did this at the turn-around point for the t-belt replacement procedure (when the water pump, thermostat housing, etc., were removed). Follow the FSM on this. You, as others have mentioned, will need to get yourself well into the engine bay to get this job done. FYI: I used a 22mm open end/box end wrench to remove the fuel line to intake manifold connection.

[spressomon]

This is what the lower v-bank looks like sans starter. Note: When you remove the intake manifold be sure there aren’t any bolts/nuts that might drop down into the intakes: You don’t even want to think about what you’d need to do to get them out of there!!! And be sure, as an added precautionary measure, to stuff rags in the intake ports to keep any foreign debris out!!!

[spressomon]

I was able, by removing the hot water crossover tube and removing the bolts that hold the black plastic electrical routing channel (shown at the top of this pic), to access both starter bolts from the top side. If you have super large hands now is the time to call someone with smaller arms/hands…no amount of cussing will make up for it! Be sure to have these gaskets on hand.

[spressomon]

I used a 3/8” short extension with the 14mm 12pt socket and flex head ratchet to get at the DS/lower starter bolt.

[spressomon]

When installing the nuts that hold the intake manifold to the block I did not have a magnetized socket…so using the only thing I had I took a little stiff packing paper to make a tight fit for the nut. This allowed me to install the nuts without risking dropping them under the intake manifold…kinda crude but it worked for me.




Reassemble everything in reverse order. FYI: I replaced the thermostat, radiator hoses, misc. hot water hoses, radiator cap, t-belt tensioner, t-belt pulleys, waterpump (no leakage but the bearing was stiff and rough), fan bracket (no choice on this one) and both belts.


Thanks to everyone that came to my aid on this job! Hope this helps somebody else out!

[ZJ2UZJ100]

Great write-up. Congrats on the job. Good to get the starter swapped out at that mileage. With the T-belt/H20 pump/thermostat swap thrown in for kicks, it makes my starter swap project look like trimming nosehairs.

[BMWSTOY]

Congrats, glad everything went better after that bolt issue - I know, I was there - only a different bolt.
Peace to us do-it-your-self folk. Here's to smoother wrenching next time.

Nice photo work too.

[Wellcraft19]

Thanks for an excellent write up!

Did the starter job (just replaced contacts) in the fall so I know how tight it is around the driver side bolt. Doing this in conjunction with a 90K service and a drained cooling system provides for "some" better access.

I did not detach the fuel line from the rail, just disconnected it over by the filter and had wife "snake it out" when I lifted the entire manifold out of the bay.

Currently contemplating doing the 90K service later in the summer, or bite the bullet and have Toyota doing it for me.

For those interested, I did a bit of "Scattered" write ups over a Tundra Solution and also some pictures. Follow link below.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...-4/#post538807

[Cruiserdrew]

Great write up. Those 100s make it hard, for sure. Very nicely documented. I guess you are not going to replace the starter on the side of the dirt road in North Africa.

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

Great write up. Those 100s make it hard, for sure. Very nicely documented. I guess you are not going to replace the starter on the side of the dirt road in North Africa.

Thanks. That's why I do preventative maintenance in the relative comfort of my garage rather than risk having to do these types of things out in the boonies of Northern Nevada, Watts or any other less than ideal location. Similiar I suppose to PHH, head gaskets and making sure the cooling system can handle the world of extremes we live in . However with the right tools working on the even a hundy starter would not be an insurmountable challenge even in North Africa if I am ever lucky enough to go there.

[Campfire]

Thanks for all the great info and pictures Dan. I know it's a little extra time to stop and take all those pictures. Great detail on those problem areas.
See you in one of those Northern Nevada spots...

[richg]

Originally Posted by spressomon

These pics show the smog pump and alternator moved out of the way (I did not completely remove either); used the double hooked hold down strap to hold the smog pump up and out of the way. And the puller and crank s-belt puller.

I think you mean power steering pump.

rich

[Wellcraft19]

One last comment/question;
In hours, how much time did you figure out it all took? "Active" time, not total time (beer, breaks, runs to the dealer, etc).

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by Wellcraft19

One last comment/question;
In hours, how much time did you figure out it all took? "Active" time, not total time (beer, breaks, runs to the dealer, etc).

Probably 3-days total time wrenching, cleaning, etc. But I had to spend extra time dealing with the fan bracket issue and this includes the starter portion...like other's have said the next/second time will be considerably faster. I figured it saved me about over $2,000 for parts and labor when compared to taking it in to the dealer...plus I know it was done properly without any 'cover ups'.

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by richg

I think you mean power steering pump.

rich

Yeah...you are correct...sorry for that!

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by Campfire

Thanks for all the great info and pictures Dan. I know it's a little extra time to stop and take all those pictures. Great detail on those problem areas.
See you in one of those Northern Nevada spots...

It did involve extra time...but it was my 'turn' to give back .

[e9999]

great writeup, will put in FAQ, thanks!

[89s rule]

Great writeup!!! Thanks for the details. Always wonder what I should do on the wifes vehicles. Just listen out to the guy saying "you can do it!!!!"

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by 89s rule

Great writeup!!! Thanks for the details. Always wonder what I should do on the wifes vehicles. Just listen out to the guy saying "you can do it!!!!"

My '99 came from Rochester NY. If not for having a completely corroded bolt holding the A/C compressor on it would have been ALOT easier and taken about 1/2 day less time! The rust/corrosion factor really gets old when doing your own work.

[Jacques Villeneuve]

Originally Posted by spressomon

While I was at it I went ahead and replaced the starter. I did this at the turn-around point for the t-belt replacement procedure (when the water pump, thermostat housing, etc., were removed). Follow the FSM on this. You, as others have mentioned, will need to get yourself well into the engine bay to get this job done. FYI: I used a 22mm open end/box end wrench to remove the fuel line to intake manifold connection.

The fuel regulator nut is supposed to be 22 mm so I did get a 22 mm box end wrench and it seems big on my 2000 LX470. The attched picture shows the nut (back of the engine one ther driver side). Can someone confirm if it is 22 mm or what size it really is on a 2000? Thank you in advance.