Steering Rack leak - Rubber bushes changed to aluminum

[siglo]

I've noticed that the steering rack boots were leaking a little after a friend noticed my leaky CV boots ( Thanks SALEH )

I took the 100 to a small shop and the mechanic said I'd need to replace all the boots and the steering rack bushes. He suggested to replace the stock rubber bushes with aluminum ones instead. It seemed like a good idea at the time so I agreed. I have my 100 back now with the new aluminum bushes. I haven't noticed any difference in steering so far. Is there any down side to aluminum bushes? are the rubber bushes meant to absorb vibrations etc?

any input would be appreciated.

[spressomon]

siglo: Is this the bushing you refer to in your original post? This "grommet" as named in the FSM is where I now have 'slop'. I am wondering if this is the same part you had replaced or?

Anyone know if this "grommet" can be replaced without pulling the rack?

Thanks,
Dan

[SALEH]

i had replace mine also with aluminum cause it is rubber and it is fixed from the manufacture and their is no spare parts !! every years spressomon the part u marked it many times i seen mine changed placed !!! i noticed only with 315s and i can feel it while reversing or turning i replaced it and now it is ok.

i believe the 100 series i can say most problems from the front like CV boots and steering rack and front diff bushing.

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by SALEH

i had replace mine also with aluminum cause it is rubber and it is fixed from the manufacture and their is no spare parts !! every years spressomon the part u marked it many times i seen mine changed placed !!! i noticed only with 315s and i can feel it while reversing or turning i replaced it and now it is ok.

i believe the 100 series i can say most problems from the front like CV boots and steering rack and front diff bushing.

Where did you source the aluminum "grommet"/bushing? Or did you just have one machined?

[calamaridog]

Polyurethane replacement bushing would be nice...

[calamaridog]

This Australian company make them:

http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/fulcrumCat/

Part # SPF2470K. This appears to be the mounts for up to 08/2002 models and then I guess there is a change in the design and a different mounting style?

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by calamaridog

This Australian company make them:

http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/fulcrumCat/

This appears to be the mounts for up to 08/2002 models and then I guess there is a change in the design and a different mounting style?

Wonder where the two smaller bushings and then the two metal bushings go?

This "grommet" seems like a strange thing to wear out. It doesn't move...I wonder what causes the wear???

[Bighead]

Originally Posted by spressomon

Wonder where the two smaller bushings and then the two metal bushings go?

I'm thinking for the two other frame mounting points (driver's side and center).

[cpcc]

Basic difference should be the dampening effect. So much other dampening occuring throughout the chasis, you shouldn't really notice it. I agree, not sure why it wore out in the first place

[calamaridog]

A great deal of force is being placed on these bushings - side to side. I've replaced the mounting bushings on a Tacoma and a 4runner too with polyurethane. I think this is a common problem with IFS Toyota 4x4's and more likely to happen when you are pushing large tires around.

I should know soon enough

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by calamaridog

A great deal of force is being placed on these bushings - side to side. I've replaced the mounting bushings on a Tacoma and a 4runner too with polyurethane. I think this is a common problem with IFS Toyota 4x4's and more likely to happen when you are pushing large tires around.

I should know soon enough

Can't wait for the post up on your results!

[ShottsUZJ100]

I'm on my 4th rack. You'd think I'd be into a Lifetime Part category by now. ???

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by ShottsUZJ100

I'm on my 4th rack. You'd think I'd be into a Lifetime Part category by now. ???

At almost $900 (+ tax & freight) parts for the rack plus labor the, what appears to be, disposable steering rack syndrome is bothersome John. Is this the consolation prize for a 35" modded hundy that is actually used off-road? Discouraging!

[ShottsUZJ100]

Originally Posted by spressomon

At almost $900 (+ tax & freight) parts for the rack plus labor the, what appears to be, disposable steering rack syndrome is bothersome John. Is this the consolation prize for a 35" modded hundy that is actually used off-road? Discouraging!

Couple of things.....I'd have to look at the one I bought....I wanna say it I got it for $380 plus a refundable core fee and plus labor.

Yes, this is the trade off on 35's and a difficult owner who punishes the vehicle. It's also the price you pay for this quality steering (unlike the 80-series). I'll pay to have the better performance. At least I do't have to deal with SO MANY 80-series issues that nickel and dime one to death.

[sleeoffroad]

Originally Posted by ShottsUZJ100

It's also the price you pay for this quality steering (unlike the 80-series).

How can you say the 100 has better steering than the 80 when yo have gone through 4 steering racks?

[ShottsUZJ100]

Originally Posted by sleeoffroad

How can you say the 100 has better steering than the 80 when yo have gone through 4 steering racks?

1. Gone through 3 (on the 4th). What are wishing on me!

2. Performance and durability do not always go hand-in-hand. Steering of the 100 blows away the 80 though it obviously is not as durable. Two different topics my friend.

I'll take the performance (even at this price).

Another topic:
Off-road...the steering/power steering of the 100 BLOWS the 80 away. The 80's have a VERY hard time turning up and over ledges, especially if locked. You can sit and sit and not turn the wheel in an 80. Never happens in the 100 (not yet to me or my other 100 buddies). You turn the wheel and it turns (and easily). I'll pay for the added maintenance to have this benefit.

[sleeoffroad]

The reason the 80 stops to steer is that you have reached the limits of the hydraulics. If the 100 allows you to steer that means the hydraulics are stronger but the net result is you are either trashing the steering system or the mounting system. It does not make it better. It makes it easier for you to steer, but the system is being stressed beyond what it was designed for. You run the risk of the link breaking or bending as well.



If you put hydro assist on the 80 you will have the same steering as the 100.

[spressomon]

Christo:
I was hoping you would take my baited hook .

How often have you seen this problem occur? And in your opinion does it make sense to use either a poly "grommet" or have an aluminum "grommet" machined to add durability? Or would you recommend sticking with the rubber OEM "grommet"?


Wanna go fish'n again sometime Christo?

[ShottsUZJ100]

Originally Posted by sleeoffroad

The reason the 80 stops to steer is that you have reached the limits of the hydraulics. If the 100 allows you to steer that means the hydraulics are stronger but the net result is you are either trashing the steering system or the mounting system. It does not make it better. It makes it easier for you to steer, but the system is being stressed beyond what it was designed for. You run the risk of the link breaking or bending as well.



If you put hydro assist on the 80 you will have the same steering as the 100.

Now I spoke about two things in one paragraph!

Yes, the hydro setup is better on the 100. That's the off-road deal and I said "another topic".

Apart from the power difference, the R&P steering on the 100 bests the 80 too.

[100 TD]

Originally Posted by siglo

I've noticed that the steering rack boots were leaking a little after a friend noticed my leaky CV boots ( Thanks SALEH )

I took the 100 to a small shop and the mechanic said I'd need to replace all the boots and the steering rack bushes. He suggested to replace the stock rubber bushes with aluminum ones instead. It seemed like a good idea at the time so I agreed. I have my 100 back now with the new aluminum bushes. I haven't noticed any difference in steering so far. Is there any down side to aluminum bushes? are the rubber bushes meant to absorb vibrations etc?

any input would be appreciated.

Can we expand on this a bit further..........
I believe my rack is leaking, oil on boot one side, haven't pulled it back to investigate if this is the cause but I am assuming so as I don't have any leaks anywhere else that I can find.
I will have to get to it and I expect I will have to replace the SEALS and possibly the BUSHES in the rack cylinder end stoppers to fix the leaks and any wear or play in the end of the rack. These bushes I would expect to be made of a aluminium/bronze alloy of some sort, but they could be a rubber compound?

Is this what was done to your rack to fix the leak?

Others here have mentioned the replacement of the external mounting bushes of the rack, which I see as not having any connection with repair of the leak you experienced.

Were your MOUNTING bushes also replaced?

Originally Posted by ShottsUZJ100

I'm on my 4th rack. You'd think I'd be into a Lifetime Part category by now. ???

So Shotts, why have yours been replaced?
What was wrong with them and why weren't they repaired?
Were the seals leaking each time?
Were the bushes in the cylinder end stoppers U/S or was the rack shaft bent or corroded?
More info please

[sleeoffroad]

100TD, what side is leaking? We recently resealed the selector valve (where the steering shaft goes into the rack) on the rack on a truck that had 270k miles on it. The sides were still fine. Make sure this is not what you are looking at. The selector valve is on the DS side.

[calamaridog]

After looking at the FSM I think I would buy a new one before I tried to rebuild anything internal.

[100 TD]

On the passenger side boot there is oil all along the bottom of the boot, none on the top and no oil anywhere else near or far, only along the bottom of the boot but it is not leaking from the clamp so it is either permeating the boot or the boot has minute cracks in it. I will not know the how or why until I get around to pulling the boot tierod etc. It is not that bad but I don't like leaks any I am stumped as to why it is leaking as I can't see any holes in the boot. Maybe I will degrease and pressure wash and do a wait and see and see how it turns out?

Thanks very much for your input Christo.

[calamaridog]

Correct me if I'm wrong but the steering system is a high pressure system and a serious leak would manifest itself with a decent volume of fluid? Yes or no?

[100 TD]

Originally Posted by calamaridog

Correct me if I'm wrong but the steering system is a high pressure system and a serious leak would manifest itself with a decent volume of fluid? Yes or no?

A serious leak YES.
Most hydraulic systems run high pressure but they should not leak. If they are starting to leak then the seals/pistons/rings/bushes and other components may be worn/pitted/corroded/torn and become a problem. I like to fix things at home with tools and available parts, not let them fester and fail in the middle of nowhere. Yes small leaks/weeps may not be a sign of imminent failure, but I would like to establish where the actual leak is and what is causing it, and find out who else has had problems, what were they, and what was the cause.