LX470 oil change

[phxtlc]

Just bought a Mobil 1 filter for my 80...

K&N and Mobil 1 are both made by the same mfr (Champion, not the same one as the spark plug) Both are real similar in quality. Both have real nice valves compared to all the rest which IMO is one of the real differences. Don't want dirty oild draining back into the engine.

"Playland..." Hmmm don't suppose you can find one next to the Dragon Coaster huh?

Here's a quote from one site...

Mobil 1 oil and oil filters have long had an outstanding reputation. The filters have a synthetic element media and the strongest shell on the market. The outside shell is .0195" thick on the large ML-301 or .0170" thick on the smaller ML209. Mobil 1 is maybe the most forthcoming with information since for a long time they have been the 100-year-old scotch of quality oil filters. They are proud of their "Hydrostatic Burst" values which are three times the SAE standard. Their "Pressure Impulse Cycles to Failure" values which are the highest, and only ones I have found; which mean the guts of the filter are made like a tank. The whole filter is an engineering exercise in loving design excess. Is it the best oil filter made or has anyone come up with a better design while Mobil 1 has rested on it's reputation? Lacking extensive and expensive laboratory tests I can only say Mobil Oil filters are somewhere in the top three, in a class of outstanding over achievers. Like all top shelf oil filters the going rate seems to be about $10 off the shelf or $9 if you can cheese a jobber price

[1loudLX]

Now, how does the Denso filter compare to the Mobil filter?

Btw, how do you know bout the dragon coaster?

[Jim_Chow]

Originally Posted by 1loudLX

Now, how does the Denso filter compare to the Mobil filter?

Btw, how do you know bout the dragon coaster?

Dunno, but the Japanese-made -20004 has a resin core and is highly recommended and used by CDan. With the -YDZZ3, one might consider doing interim changes at 4K mi.

Many times in this country, people say this or that product is the "best" and exceeds some spec by this much, but when you compare it to OEM, it's comparable. Remember that Toyota OEM parts quality also exceeds that of the vast majority of domestic parts and are tested worldwide. If we didn't believe that, we wouldn't be here on this forum! The question one should ask is, "what oil filters are they using in LC's overseas like in the Middle East and Australia?" My guess is they're using the -20004. We know the oil spec'd for the 2UZ is 10w30, not 5w30.

Siglo, would you know?

[SWUtah]

Originally Posted by Jim_Chow

Dunno, but the Japanese-made -20004 has a resin core and is highly recommended and used by CDan. With the -YDZZ3, one might consider doing interim changes at 4K mi.

Many times in this country, people say this or that product is the "best" and exceeds some spec by this much, but when you compare it to OEM, it's comparable. Remember that Toyota OEM parts quality also exceeds that of the vast majority of domestic parts and are tested worldwide. If we didn't believe that, we wouldn't be here on this forum! The question one should ask is, "what oil filters are they using in LC's overseas like in the Middle East and Australia?" My guess is they're using the -20004. We know the oil spec'd for the 2UZ is 10w30, not 5w30.

Siglo, would you know?

I read on www.bobistheoilguy.com that Mobil 1 10w30 was really a "better" oil then the 5w30. But also read opinions that based on used oil analysis the Toyota 4.7 V8 was one of the best most durable engine ever made by any manufacture. Which means it will out last the truck if you do normal 7.5K mile oil/filter changes with a good dino oil and a good filter. Kind of like using the good synthetic and filter and getting 500K trouble free miles out of your engine or using the dino stuff and getting 480K trouble free miles.

[phxtlc]

Originally Posted by 1loudLX

Now, how does the Denso filter compare to the Mobil filter?

Btw, how do you know bout the dragon coaster?

Grew up in New Ro. Cousin lived across Forest Ave. from it. AActually when the County started to charge general admission we'd sneak in by the old fishing pier...

The key to the Mobil 1 is that it's a synthetic media.

[cary]

Originally Posted by Jim_Chow

Dunno, but the Japanese-made -20004 has a resin core and is highly recommended and used by CDan. With the -YDZZ3, one might consider doing interim changes at 4K mi.

Many times in this country, people say this or that product is the "best" and exceeds some spec by this much, but when you compare it to OEM, it's comparable. Remember that Toyota OEM parts quality also exceeds that of the vast majority of domestic parts and are tested worldwide. If we didn't believe that, we wouldn't be here on this forum! The question one should ask is, "what oil filters are they using in LC's overseas like in the Middle East and Australia?" My guess is they're using the -20004. We know the oil spec'd for the 2UZ is 10w30, not 5w30.

Siglo, would you know?

There are some photo's floating around of the 20004 filter and it clearly has a superior filter medium compared to the cheap OEM filter that is now widely available. This would be my first choice in filters. My next choice would be the Mobil 1 and Napa Gold Filters (Wix), both of which are high quality. Most of the premium filters are of more than adequate quality, the only filter I would specifically advise against is a Fram.

For oil, if you are using a 30 weight oil, use the Mobil 1 5w-30. I pumps better at lower temperatures and is the same thickness at operating temps. There is no practical difference between the 10w-30 and 5w-30 in terms of durability or sludging.

[SWUtah]

Originally Posted by Jim_Chow

the Japanese-made -20004 has a resin core and is highly recommended and used by CDan. With the -YDZZ3, one might consider doing interim changes at 4K mi.
?

Just wondering if Toyota went with this cheaper filter when they lowered the oil change interval in 2004 from 7500 miles to 5000 miles?

[Jim_Chow]

Originally Posted by SWUtah

Just wondering if Toyota went with this cheaper filter when they lowered the oil change interval in 2004 from 7500 miles to 5000 miles?

I didn't know that! I bet that's why. It was probably about '04 when they changed to the YDZZ3 filter. Looks like I'll have to buy the -20004's overseas after I run through my last dozen.

[1loudLX]

Originally Posted by phxtlc

Grew up in New Ro. Cousin lived across Forest Ave. from it. AActually when the County started to charge general admission we'd sneak in by the old fishing pier...

The key to the Mobil 1 is that it's a synthetic media.

Ok well ill shoot for only 4-5k miles then with this thai denso filter. Ill either get a good supply of the 20004s or find somewhere to get the Mobil filters.

Phxtlc, i just moved to new ro two weeks ago, grew up in rye. Lived up near the corner of oakland beach and the post road by osborn school practically my whole life. Dont know if you are familiar with the area much, but do you know the gulf station near that intersection? Thats where i get my oil changed, hah...trying to make this comment somewhat related to the topic.

[cary]

Shh, don't tell but Cdan has a supply of 20004 filters available.

[phxtlc]

Originally Posted by 1loudLX

Ok well ill shoot for only 4-5k miles then with this thai denso filter. Ill either get a good supply of the 20004s or find somewhere to get the Mobil filters.

Phxtlc, i just moved to new ro two weeks ago, grew up in rye. Lived up near the corner of oakland beach and the post road by osborn school practically my whole life. Dont know if you are familiar with the area much, but do you know the gulf station near that intersection? Thats where i get my oil changed, hah...trying to make this comment somewhat related to the topic.

BTW there's a great site if you google oil filter comparison. (I'm at work or I'd link it) the guys rips apart 20 or so filters and compares them. I used the Toyota one and I'm even more impressed with the Mobil 1 so far.

I know just where that station is. Speaking of stations I always wanted the one right in town that has the old style overhang (by the library) Where is New Ro did you move?

[Tinkerer]

Originally Posted by cary

<snip>

For oil, if you are using a 30 weight oil, use the Mobil 1 5w-30. I pumps better at lower temperatures and is the same thickness at operating temps. There is no practical difference between the 10w-30 and 5w-30 in terms of durability or sludging.

I originally used dino 5w-30. Switched to Mobil 1 5w-30, and it resulted in cold engine startup valvetrain noise. Mobile 1 10w-30 solved that problem. Cold starts no problem around here, but min winter temperatures rarely get below 10-15 deg F. Fuel economy: 17-18mpg mixed city/hwy.

AFAIAA, one reason 10w-30 is preferred (vs. 5w-30) is that in general, the closer cold-hot viscosity rating numbers implies less percentage content of Viscosity Index Modifier additives. Less VIM additive means less VIM breakdown over the service interval, which means viscosity performance does not degrade as much over the service interval.

In fact, I read somewhere that synthetic oil with closer cold-hot viscosity rating such as 10w-30, may actually have NO VIM additives, since synthetic requires less VIM additives than dino in any case. NO VIM additives = a good thing.

[cary]

Originally Posted by Tinkerer

AFAIAA, one reason 10w-30 is preferred (vs. 5w-30) is that in general, the closer cold-hot viscosity rating numbers implies less percentage content of Viscosity Index Modifier additives. Less VIM additive means less VIM breakdown over the service interval, which means viscosity performance does not degrade as much over the service interval.

That was true when base stock oils were group I and the VI improvers were garbage, but things have come a long way since then. One of the big deals with Mobil 1's Supersyn was it had a VI that was in the thousands, so very little is required compared to normal VI improvers.

Keep in mind that 0w-40 and 5w-40 are the primary grades used in Europe now. UOA's of cars like the Porsche Cayanne running an 18k interval on the 0w-40 show no shearing issues and great wear numbers. Same goes for most of the 0w-40 reports (including my 9k interval in a 80). The bottom line is high weight spreads are simply not an issue for modern synthetics.

[Tinkerer]

Originally Posted by cary

That was true when base stock oils were group I and the VI improvers were garbage, but things have come a long way since then. One of the big deals with Mobil 1's Supersyn was it had a VI that was in the thousands, so very little is required compared to normal VI improvers.

Keep in mind that 0w-40 and 5w-40 are the primary grades used in Europe now. UOA's of cars like the Porsche Cayanne running an 18k interval on the 0w-40 show no shearing issues and great wear numbers. Same goes for most of the 0w-40 reports (including my 9k interval in a 80). The bottom line is high weight spreads are simply not an issue for modern synthetics.

Any links to relevant reports etc. ?

[cary]

Originally Posted by Tinkerer

Any links to relevant reports etc. ?

There are about 100 UOA's of the 0w-40 on BITOG as well as my and others UOA's posted here.

[NMuzj100]

Just dissected a 90915-YZZD3 Toyota OEM filter and was pretty impressed. Very well made bypass and quality anti-drainback. Lots of what appears to be a high quality filter media with a metal core. I have not taken apart a Mobil1 yet so no head to head comparison yet. I would not hesitate to run 10-15k with it. Outside of Fram filters with cardboard end caps I haven't heard of many filter failures.

Anyone here know how to distinguish between silicone and nitrile antidrainback valves ?

[1loudLX]

thanks NM...your truely committed us here at 'mud. Good to know someone has cut open my filter and checked it out.

[sprale]

From what I have been reading, I will probably lean toward the -YDZZ3 filter and the M1 10W-30. My 03 GX470 is the wife's vehicle. She drives it less than 5k per year, so it doesn't get run hard every day. Spends its days here in Central Texas. Any opinions to the contrary?

My daily ride is a 250 bike. I would rather get a new one of these every few years and keep the GX in top shape for a few decades. It is really the nicest vehicle I have ever owned, didn't think I would say that after a Land Rover.

[Jim_Chow]

Originally Posted by sprale

From what I have been reading, I will probably lean toward the -YDZZ3 filter and the M1 10W-30. My 03 GX470 is the wife's vehicle. She drives it less than 5k per year, so it doesn't get run hard every day. Spends its days here in Central Texas. Any opinions to the contrary?

My daily ride is a 250 bike. I would rather get a new one of these every few years and keep the GX in top shape for a few decades. It is really the nicest vehicle I have ever owned, didn't think I would say that after a Land Rover.

I would use M1 0w40 over M1 10w30. I've used both along w/ M1 5w40 delvac (commercial) and Shell Rotella T syn 5w40. The M1 10w30 gave the lowest fuel economy, M1 0w40, M1 delvac 5w40, and shell rotella T 5w40 give 5-10% better mpg's (the 3 gave results on par with one another; only the WalMart M1 10w30 gave lower mpg's, on par w/ dino 10w30/10w40, and this was for all vehicles). For the record, I use the M1 delvac ($28/gal) w/ -20004 filter in the LX, M1 0w40 ($26/gal) in the prelude and crv (honda oil filters), and rotella T syn 5w40 in the old beater 4 cyl 4runner w/ YZZD3 filter ($14/gal, WalMart). I run a 7.5K mi OCI w/ the M1's and 5K mi OCI w/ the Rotella T.

[sprale]

I hate posting to different forums, but shodog over at the Club Lexus Forums posted a detailed oil change thread for the GX. Getting the skid plate off was tripping me a bit.

GX470 oil change

[Dandon]

Originally Posted by sprale

From what I have been reading, I will probably lean toward the -YDZZ3 filter and the M1 10W-30. My 03 GX470 is the wife's vehicle. She drives it less than 5k per year, so it doesn't get run hard every day. Spends its days here in Central Texas. Any opinions to the contrary?

My daily ride is a 250 bike. I would rather get a new one of these every few years and keep the GX in top shape for a few decades. It is really the nicest vehicle I have ever owned, didn't think I would say that after a Land Rover.

That's because you haven't owned an LC100 /LX470 Else your GX would be the second best.
BTW, there's no need to remove the skid plate, or even to put it on ramps, in order to change oil and filter on an LX470 or a 100 with AHC.

[Texasoil]

Oil is so cheap. A major benefit of more frequent changes is the probability of saving the engine if something has gone amiss like a leak, or water pump seep, or belt crack, etc. Visual inspection of stuff will find vast majority of failures B4 they happen.

[SWUtah]

Originally Posted by Texasoil

Oil is so cheap. A major benefit of more frequent changes is the probability of saving the engine if something has gone amiss like a leak, or water pump seep, or belt crack, etc. Visual inspection of stuff will find vast majority of failures B4 they happen.

How about the old fashion way? Check your oil everytime you filler up with gas???

[Jim_Chow]

Originally Posted by SWUtah

How about the old fashion way? Check your oil everytime you filler up with gas???

Nah. Then you'll suffer the disgrace of admitting a fine piece of engineering like the 100 drinks oil like domestics. The 100 doesn't burn any oil if it's been properly maintained. I run 7.5K mi OCI's w/ M1 delvac 5w40 and still can't detect any difference in the dipstick level at 72K mi.

[SWUtah]

Originally Posted by Jim_Chow

Nah. Then you'll suffer the disgrace of admitting a fine piece of engineering like the 100 drinks oil like domestics. The 100 doesn't burn any oil if it's been properly maintained. I run 7.5K mi OCI's w/ M1 delvac 5w40 and still can't detect any difference in the dipstick level at 72K mi.

I agree, I check mine about every 400 miles and I have never seen any oil useage. But I check it because I am old and thats how I was taught