[BMWSTOY]

2000 LC with 120K on "The Black Pearl" (kids named it)
- Timing Belt
- Acc Belt - Gen Drive Belt - (first one replaced at 60K from records)
- Water Pump and gasket
- Pulleys and tensioners - only if needed once inspected.
- Oil Change to Mobil 1 with Toyota filters
- Spark Plugs - SK20R11's
- Toyota long life Coolant - RED. (why is it that every Toy I buy has green in it? I thought Toyota always put Red in it. Oh well, its time to flush anyway - from what I read - do not mix them). I will be using my tested method of running distilled water until clear. Then add the new stuff 50/50.
- Flush Brake Fluid & check those pads.
- air filter is good - not sure I want to go to K&N/TRD type.
- Change my chrome tags to Black Pearl - Testors paint economy job from yotatech website.
- Tires: 285/75/16 BFG AT KO's 122R snowflake on mtn. versions.
- Bilsteins or OME lift - all the alignment issues are starting to worry me.

Thanks to Pete for advise and the loaner tool and the entire site for advise. Thanks Cruiser Dan for the parts. Thanks to the FSM thread - that download was fun and easy. Thanks to Slee for his website.
This will be a slow process, not like Bulls weekend OME build - I don't have the greatest tools to go too fast. I will also photo the process for those that wish to see - like Pete did. Just hope my day job does not call me away.

[Jim_Chow]

You forgot some other stuff: repack front wheel bearings, lube driveshafts, retorque d-shaft/suspension bolts, replace cabin air filters, clean throttle body, replace ATF.

[NMuzj100]

I would consider using the SUPER long life Toyota pre-mixed coolant. (Coolant FAQ)
Diffs fluids and TC case (ATF) may need attention.
Also consider completely bleeding the brake fluid (Needs replaced every 2 years) and at least refreshing the power steering fluid.
None of these need to be done at the same time as your timing belt job. I look forward to your write-up.

[Dandon]

Sounds like a lot of funny afternoons!

[Jim_Chow]

I went w/ the normal long-life coolant at 60K mi since I know it has to be drained again at 90K for the t-belt/water pump work. At 90K, my plan is to use the SLLC. BTW, some observations. If you plan to replace w/ SLLC, you really need to drain both block drain bolts. On the 5spd, the right block drain bolt is obscured by the ATF lines and a bracket (can be seen if you remove the rear plastic panel in the front right wheel well. Rather than remove that, I just drained the left block drain and radiator 3x each (flushing w/ distilled water and running the engine w/ heaters full blast). If I drained the left block first, then the radiator, I got 6.5 qts (left block) and 4.5 qts (radiator). If radiator first, the other way around (6.5 and 4.5qts). So roughly, there's about 6 qts of coolant in the radiator, 4 qts in each engine half, and maybe 2 qts in the heater cores.

Oh, the toyota tech gave me a tip on removing stubborn diff fill/drain bolts. Whack the bolt w/ a hammer first to compress the crush water. He told me this after I mentioned the front diff allen bolts were super tight (had problems loosening the front fill/drain bolts w/ a 18" breaker bar; PO had the dealer do the work before). Might be safer to whack them w/ a brass bar and BFH. I'll try this next time at 90K mi.

[BMWSTOY]

Thanks everyone. I will do more fluids after the initial list is done per the FSM. It has been so cold, I am not looking forward to the days in the garage. I ordered the mail items first, then I have to pick up the fluid items. I already have some Red long life coolant left over from a previous job so I will go with this first.
Its not only important to drain the engine as Jim stated, but a distilled water flush still gets additional stuff out from my experience. Steps: Drain, fill with Distilled water and run, repeat until clear. It works better than flushing with contaminated tap water.
Priorities: I ordered some BFG 285's. Next is a CD player, mine is acting up.

[BMWSTOY]

Tires installed. Created a lift
Measurements: Front from ground to fender - center tire cap: Before 33.5", after 35" - 1.5" lift (aprox)
Rear: Before 35", after: 36". Changed from a 1.5" rake to a 1" rake?

Results: I love um - they already lifted my new ride and they fill in the wheel wells very nice. If nothing else, IMO they make my 100 stand out from the mall cruisers just for the looks alone. Another pulled up next to me in a pearl white - mine does not look so much like a anymore

Now, the tune-up items.

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by BMWSTOY

Tires installed. Created a lift
Measurements: Front from ground to fender - center tire cap: Before 33.5", after 35" - 1.5" lift (aprox)
Rear: Before 35", after: 36". Changed from a 1.5" rake to a 1" rake?

Results: I love um - they already lifted my new ride and they fill in the wheel wells very nice. If nothing else, IMO they make my 100 stand out from the mall cruisers just for the looks alone. Another pulled up next to me in a pearl white - mine does not look so much like a anymore

Now, the tune-up items.

It'll always look like a mall cruiser/grocery getter until you get that thing PINSTRIPED

[BMWSTOY]

I am taking pictures but since there are other photos out there I will be selective and upload those latter.

I only put in 4 hours today on the timing belt (I am not a mechanic) - that included all prep work - getting out all the tools and such. I am down to the CRANK BOLT and I could not get it to budge. Time for me to round up a buddy to hold the tool (thanks to Pete) while I put my almost 200lb bulk into the breaker bar.
The A/C Compressor held me up just a tad, why in the world did Toyota attach the fan bracket to the A/C compressor is beyond me - this was an extra step that I must have glanced over while reading the FSM and it was not a step on a V6.

For those that have never done this before and are considering it - make sure you have a large breaker bar and a buddy when its time to "loosen" the crank bolt - you know the one - 181ft lb torque on that thing plus what ever the engine decided to put on it, oh and a SST equiv tool. One thing for sure, that belt of mine with 119K on it needs replacing - I can see dry cracks starting on the outside, same with the accessory belt.

[BMWSTOY]

Finally able to get that crank off. Purchased M8 1.25X50MM bolts and using the tool and a 12" breaker bar I used a Yakima 48" crossbar as a cheater - I WIN! Yes, I took photos while I went.

Installed the New Water pump, but that inlet would not come off - just an o-ring gave me the hardest time today. But alas, I WON again and got past that part. Then I broke a bolt installing the inlet part that attaches to the water pump. Drilled that out and was able to get a bolt and nut on it - not too worried there because it was so hard to take off. BTW - the weap hole for air was leaking fluid on the water pump and I am glad I replaced it.
Am I glad I am doing the timing belt - not right now. The belt showed some wear on the outside - some dry cracking, but no threads torn like Pete.

To the Install - What in the heck is going wrong here
I still do not quite understand how you can start at "roughly 50 degrees past TDC and then install everything and it comes out perfect??? After 3 installs, I do not think I have it. And after the 3rd time walking in the tensioner 2 bolts I think I broke-twisted one of those too but I did not take it off to be sure - its really tight walking that thing on. The bad part about purchasing a new tensioner is that every time you test it and do not get the timing - you would have to take it out again and find a press to compress it.
Well, I am chalking it up to tired and I am done for the evening - perhaps in the morning I will check the timing and only look at the cams and not the belt as it does not matter what it says. This is when its nice to have a buddy to check things, which I do not have right now or to point out that you missed a step. I can almost write the FSM by memory and I still don't get it.

[jp213a]

Originally Posted by BMWSTOY

in the morning I will check the timing and only look at the cams and not the belt as it does not matter what it says.

Since the timing belt was installed with the crank at 50 degrees ATDC the marks on the belt won't line up at 0 degrees. Just be sure all three pulley marks line up (crank at 0 and two cam pulleys on marks). This is step 16c in the 2002 FSM.

[BMWSTOY]

Thanks JP - I am going to check that this morning - I know I was tired and I remember looking at those belt marks. When I did the Toyota V6, the FSM states to no look at them - but then that was much easier than this V8 - despite what I read that it was easier. To allign the timing on the V6 you remove the RH Cam and install it timed - no 50 degrees to worry about.
So in effect, 50 degrees will rotate to 0 degrees after so many revolutions since the cams and the crank turn differently? Wierd, but must prove without a doubt that it is an interference engine.

[BMWSTOY]

Well it was not timed. I think when I was tired I only looked at the belt during install, but rather I need to make sure those cams are in the right position during install at 50 degrees.

The FSM does not say anything regarding the cam alignment during install - it even tells you to turn clockwise to put the belt mark on, then back to tighten the belt from the crank. Donoco? states that he strung his fron the LH cam then to the crank then to the RH cam - but what position do the cams need to be in? There are 2 marks on the cam - TDC indicated by a line and T - which I am wondering if this is not the install mark of 50 degrees -
Well - I need to extract a tensioner bolt prior to coninuing anyway so someone please assist a weary wrencher??? I am not putting that tensioner back on until I know the proper install - despite the FSM

[BMWSTOY]

Had an Ah-HAH! moment.
I was tired after all last night and I am willing to admit mistakes. The belt is so clearly marked, it amazes even me that I had it wrong. On the crank timing guide there is a faint mark and I was looking at the obvious hole. If you get the CR mark on the belt on the mark, there is also 2 marks for the whole and 2 marks on the belt for the notch pin - totally a no brainier if you not asleep on the job -
Pictures tonight if I get the fluid in the pearl to flush the coolant. Glad I am almost there with this, its getting cold and I have to go to work - out of town on Monday.

[BMWSTOY]

First pic I had to share is the 48" crossbar to break that CRANK BOLT- wow was that ever on tight.

Picture 2: Timing on the crank - sure wish I wold have seen this better last night on the first attempt - I would not have broken one of the tensioner bolts. Now its time to find a mechanic with some supper tools - like an angle drill to tap in the extractor - I could not get my drill on that bolt because of the position.
Anyone know if Slee does this type of work? Any recommendations in South Denver - less miles the better on one bolt holding the tensioner on. Oh, I did replace it with an 8 grade - I strip 4's like butta.

[jp213a]

Originally Posted by BMWSTOY

I would not have broken one of the tensioner bolts. Now its time to find a mechanic with some supper tools - like an angle drill to tap in the extractor - I could not get my drill on that bolt because of the position.

If a right angle drill is what you need to remove the broken tensioner bolt, then why not go buy one. When drilling the hole for the EZ-out extractor, use a left hand bit in a reversible drill; sometimes the bolt will back out while drilling. Before drilling, try backing the broken bolt out with a center punch and hammer; hold the center punch at a 45 degree angle to the bolt and off-center so the force from the hammer blow is trying to turn the bolt out.

[BMWSTOY]

I have my hands on a Dremel tool with the flex shaft so I should be able to work on that stubborn bolt I broke. But I am waiting until its gets above 0 degrees outside.

But, its in time now that I figured out that crank and the marks on the belt. Hint: always buy the Toyota/Lexus timing belt - its very clearly marked as others have pointed out. If you need any help at all before installing that tensioner, feel free to PM me. Also if you need pictures of anything let me know.

[BMWSTOY]

A Few things to add to the other Timing Belt write ups.

The FSM is very nice to have, although not always crystal clear and occasionally there are steps out of order or missed.

Ones that I can remember:
- Installing, you don't put the oil cooler pipe on before the LH (Drivers) timing cover - it goes on top of the cover - that was not hard to figure out, but when your tired and reading the FSM - you tend to try to stick to it.
- I did remove the 3 bolts to the A/C compressor rather then bending the bracket that keeps you from removing the Fan Bracket. You need to remove the second under cover or oil pan cover to reach the rear bolt - other than this bolt you can leave on the rear cover.
- When changing the water pump with the job, there is a lot of fluid in there so have the pan ready. Don't even think of reusing the coolant on this job - there is just too much stuff falling out all the time to keep it clean. Do the flush with Distilled water and clean it out. I highly recommend changing the water pump while doing the timing belt. There is an air seep hole that will begin to leak fluid when it is starting to go. This is an air hole, not a coolant hole.
- the FSM is not that clear on the install on the CAMS - use the "T" mark on the head just above the cams when putting the new belt on with the marks on the belt - the FSM only tells you to look at the belt. Mine timmed just perfect when folling this. There are some threads that talk about the "other" marks - these must be the ones although they were not clear.
- The generator only moves asside, you do not have to unhook the wires or remove this.
- You do not have to remove the CAMS - they are not removed for the install like a V6 engine
- I removed the radiator and glad I did - more room to work and no worries about damaging fins. Although I believe you do not have too as others have completed the job with it in there.
- Do not use the radiator bolts to hold your homeade crank tool - err don't tell anyone I did ok. They twisted very easily under that pressure (181ftlbs).
- The bolts to hold the tool are perfect and Autozone carries them - M8X1.25X50mm and you can get the Crank pulley tool on a loaner while you are there.
- I changed several bolts to 8 grade - not sure if this is recommended to aluminium but I did because as I said before I shread 4 grades like Butta.

[miraloiza]

Grade 8 bolts will be ok in Aluminium but standard bolts are sufficient in strength. If you are shearing the standard bolts then you are overtightening possibly all your bolts. Alumimium strips easily and I would avoid using a torque wrench on bolts under 40Nm, otherwise purchase a good Heli-coil set. Try using Loctite242 on all bolts and hand tighten. Then further tighten with wrench 1/8th to 1/6th of a turn. You will never shear another bolt and lose one either. If you must use a torque wrench, lower the setting by 20%.
Good luck

[BMWSTOY]

I appreciate the advise. I will get a lecture again from my father in law - retired mechanic for an Airline. He has some stories about things like this on airplanes that I would rather not hear - but everything is repariable in the end.

Going home today to continue my project - I only call it a project because I have been away from it for a month now. I can not wait for the coolant to go back in, no stress about that part of the job. Then on to the spark plugs and fluids.

[BMWSTOY]

My job had me out of town for 2 months - but today I started back up.

First this: I read somewhere - sorry can not thank the person directly - that if you put very slow constant pressure on the Timing Belt tensioner, it will slowly compress - too fast and its no good, but slow pressure will cause it will go back in. So today I used a vice and it slowly compressed after about 15 minutes. So first the hole was not lined up to pin it, but a very slow twist and it was pinned. What does this mean? It means with this knowledge I would not be in the problem situation I am in now. Thanks to the person that just did this. Lesson learned.

PLEASE DO NOT "WALK UP" A LOADED TIMING TENSIONER. It is easily replaced with a new one or slowly compress the tensioner and pin it prior to installing it. This is much less hassle than the problems associated with walking it up.

Now onto the bolt: still talking to mechanics for ideas. I have a broken bolt and now I have an extractor that is broke off inside the broken bolt. There is no drilling into an extractor, so I either drill around it and remove it or hold a tap at a 45 degree angle and knock it loose - either way it looks like a tap and dye job ahead of me. So slow progress ahead - very slow and thought out. I have learned enough lessons on this project.

[BMWSTOY]

For those that want to see what I am dealing with. This is a picture of the broken bolt with a broken extractor inside the bolt.
I just might be taking this to a mechanic if I can find one that will do the work.

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by BMWSTOY

For those that want to see what I am dealing with. This is a picture of the broken bolt with a broken extractor inside the bolt.
I just might be taking this to a mechanic if I can find one that will do the work.

Does the bolt extractor = the diameter of the original bolt (it's hard for me to tell from the pic)? I am wondering if you can, with a Dremmel and a small pointed grinding stoner, can "drill" the extractor out...or enough to try yet another smaller extractor...or the Heli-Coil tap in?

[BMWSTOY]

No luck today. On the phone with anyone that will attempt this job. Most shops tell me that it is possible they have to pull the block in order to get to the bolt - 20+ hours. Another tells me $100/hr and we will call you when we need more time or any updates - guess I just give them my mortgage to my house? No idea how much this will end up costing - but I wish someone could give me a high end dollar amount so I can just bite the bullet -

[Maxim]

Wow, my first post and maybe I can even help some one out.

I've been eyeing a 100 series for a long time and might be buying one really soon. Till now I've just been lurking. I figure broken bolt removal is something I have a little experience in, although not in automotive applications (thank God!).

If you can get a drill in there the bolt remover can be drilled with a solid carbide drill. Look at http://www.mcmaster.com on page 2405.Make sure to put a center punch mark on the broken end of the bolt, the carbide is very hard but also brittle, it does not tolerate being banged on like a regular drill bit. Be very gentle with it.

Makita makes a really nice angle drill. Worse case scenario, buy one from HD and return it when you are done for store credit.

If you have that little stub and can get a buddy with a TIG welder to drop by , you maybe able to weld a little extension to the bolt/extractor and unscrew it out.

If you try that approach, get a can of Kroil. It a penetrating lubricant. Spray on the bolt wait 15 mins and it seeps in and helps to get it out. Obviously, do it after welding and the area cools down. Its good stuff to use on all your hard to get out bolts.

Are the threads completely Al or do they touch steel? It maybe possible to attack the bolt with nitric acid, which will leave some goo in place of the bolt. It will corrode the steel but not the Al but I would avoid going to those extremes just yet. Especially if its your first time.

There is a machine called a Tap Disintigrator, it is similar to EDM (electric discharge machining) which will eat away the hardened steel. I think there are places which have portable ones, not sure if it will clear into the engine bay. A place which does on site machinery maintenance/welding might have one (or come out with a TIG welder on a truck). Not sure if it will fit in there.

I would try drilling a small hole with a carbide drill first. If nothing else it will give you an excuse to buy a decent angle drill. A dremel isn't really the best tool for any job, its like the crescent wrench of power tools.

Pulling the engine is an extreme, many other things you can try before that will be needed.

Hope this helps.

[NMuzj100]

This is a great article on bolt extraction.

The Art of Extraction

The author is in Aurora and has his email address at the end of the article if you needed a lead on an shop with EDM capability.

[BMWSTOY]

Well I may give it one more chance now that I know I am not alone. I just hate what I did, but I do not want to mess up the block so I will almost go too careful. Sad part is I did the "*$%@" that Brian talked about.

Thank you both for the advise and article. I wrote Brian to see if such EDM machines are portable and can reach tight places or if he could recommend one in Aurora - article is 4 years old - we shall see. Ideal world - its portable and I pay someone to remove that mess up there.

[Maxim]

A couple of more thoughts (I take no responsibility for them or any consequences thereof).

Could you use JB weld to attach a T-shaped extension or a large nut to the stub sticking out? Soak in Kroil over night and it might be able to come out with a little gentle pursuasion.

[BMWSTOY]

I was able to get some drills up there and I have it threaded. Now - not sure what is happening. I have the tensioner pinned, but I can not fit it up to the top because of the pressure coming off the belt - I dont remember it being this tight - thoughts anyone?

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by BMWSTOY

I was able to get some drills up there and I have it threaded. Now - not sure what is happening. I have the tensioner pinned, but I can not fit it up to the top because of the pressure coming off the belt - I dont remember it being this tight - thoughts anyone?

Sorry...I haven't crossed this bridge yet as I am now starting to remove the intake manifold to replace the starter...