[SWUtah]

This thread illustrates why I have these major repairs done by a dealer or a large independent shop. Sorry for your problems, hope it all works out OK.

[BMWSTOY]

No Yahoo yet, but at least the broken bolt is gone and there are new or repaired threads up there and the bolt is turnable by hand - back to normal or as normal as aluminum threads can get.
For some reason the lower part of the belt is really tight and the upper is loose. While the tensioner was off I had the belt held in place with the right cover off - but it appears I need to redo everything in order to have piece of mind. I remember the timing at zero when I shot a picture - but its not there now and I am not sure how or why.
Time to fabricate the crank holder tool - should have had it copied while i had Pete's. I should be able to recite the FSM by projects end

[jp213a]

Originally Posted by SWUtah

This thread illustrates why I have these major repairs done by a dealer or a large independent shop.

For those considering a DIY timing belt job, don’t let this thread scare you off. What this tread shows is you must do your homework up-front; study the FSM, read all the related postings, and have your special tools ready (crank shaft holding tool and a hydraulic press or big vise to compress the tensioner).

I do my own work because I like knowing the job was done right and I don’t enjoy hanging around the dealer’s Customer Service waiting room with the woman and kids.

[SWUtah]

Originally Posted by jp213a

For those considering a DIY timing belt job, don’t let this thread scare you off. What this tread shows is you must do your homework up-front; study the FSM, read all the related postings, and have your special tools ready (crank shaft holding tool and a hydraulic press or big vise to compress the tensioner).

I do my own work because I like knowing the job was done right and I don’t enjoy hanging around the dealer’s Customer Service waiting room with the woman and kids.

If you have the skills, information, equipment and enjoy the work, then go for it. Personally I'm not in the waiting room with the woman and children. My Lexus dealership gives you a nice loaner car so you can go out and do something other then work on your car. Examples, lunch, local strip club, etc. I guess it all depends on how much money someone has and where they want to spend their time.

[BMWSTOY]

Its all good again.
The crank had slipped just ever so slightly that it put very tight pressure on the belt on the lower half and the upper was loose. I turned the crank about 10 degrees and that was it. The pin that pushes the tensioner pulley should be loose and you should be able to push the tensioner up by hand to hand tighten the bolts. Then of course, torque them.
Its all back together - tomorrow the coolant flush and off to the store to buy the fluids it deserves after I have left it alone in the garage for 2 months.

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by BMWSTOY

Its all good again.
The crank had slipped just ever so slightly that it put very tight pressure on the belt on the lower half and the upper was loose. I turned the crank about 10 degrees and that was it. The pin that pushes the tensioner pulley should be loose and you should be able to push the tensioner up by hand to hand tighten the bolts. Then of course, torque them.
Its all back together - tomorrow the coolant flush and off to the store to buy the fluids it deserves after I have left it alone in the garage for 2 months.

Congratulations...while you're at the store buying fluids for your rig be sure to buy some fluids for your body in celebration ( )

[ppressle]

Congrats. It will feel great when it fires up.

[BMWSTOY]

It fired up, but it was not running - more like crawling like it would do after a long sit which it had. I was running distilled water in it to flush out the old green stuff. Then I pulled it back in to the garage to put the long life Toyota Red in it.

Now it will not start? I triple checked the timing. Everything appears hooked up and there is nothing in the FSM steps that I can find that I am missing. If it was not in time, I am concerned that it would start and then cease. What would cause rough idle after this?
Can I reset something? Pull a fuse?

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by BMWSTOY

It fired up, but it was not running - more like crawling like it would do after a long sit which it had. I was running distilled water in it to flush out the old green stuff. Then I pulled it back in to the garage to put the long life Toyota Red in it.

Now it will not start? I triple checked the timing. Everything appears hooked up and there is nothing in the FSM steps that I can find that I am missing. If it was not in time, I am concerned that it would start and then cease. What would cause rough idle after this?
Can I reset something? Pull a fuse?

Uh oh...I hear SWU typing already . Don't know...but when you described rotating the crank 10 degrees, to create a little slack on the PS side of the belt, the t-belt was already installed correct? And when you removed the original t-belt you did so with the crank rotated an additional 50-degrees from ATDC and then installed the new t-belt with the crank and camshafts still in this position: Correct (per the FSM)?

[BMWSTOY]

Yes, you are correct. But then you rotate it 2-4 times checking the timing - which would put it back to 0 degrees. Then I pulled the tensioner again with the right side clamped to the cam. Then when I put the tensioner back on I rotated it twice again and it was still in time.
Perhaps I am down to SWU and his dealer suggestion. I did leave off one hose under the air contraption - and that did cause another's to run rough so that all makes since. Now I am down to why it won't start.

[SWUtah]

Originally Posted by BMWSTOY

Yes, you are correct. But then you rotate it 2-4 times checking the timing - which would put it back to 0 degrees. Then I pulled the tensioner again with the right side clamped to the cam. Then when I put the tensioner back on I rotated it twice again and it was still in time.
Perhaps I am down to SWU and his dealer suggestion. I did leave off one hose under the air contraption - and that did cause another's to run rough so that all makes since. Now I am down to why it won't start.

Don't mind my opinion, I'm a lazy SOB and would reather talk about doin the work and pay someone else. I respect you guys that do the work. I hope you figure it out.

[jp213a]

Originally Posted by BMWSTOY

Then when I put the tensioner back on I rotated it twice again and it was still in time.

So timing is not the issue. The most trying part of the whole timing belt job for me was figuring out how to separate the various electrical connectors. Everyone was a Chinese puzzle, or should I say Japanese puzzle. Double check that all are back together correctly and no wires or plugs are broken. A wiring problem with the crank or cam position sensors would definitely keep it from running. If you had a way to pull the trouble codes, that could be big help but with the truck not running, the scan tool needs to come to you.

[BMWSTOY]

I am thinking the same thing JP. Scan tool is coming to me on Sunday and I am hoping it just gives me the solution. I am also assuming that because it ran rough and then did not start, that it has codes to give. The rough running could be the one air connector that I left off and the other issue is like you said - a plug or something. If none of the above - I will admit to a faulty timing job by me.
Then comes the decision to do it all over, or take it in and suck up the expense.
Thanks all

[Aussie]

It took awhile to read all the threads. I hope it works out for you tomorrow m8, all the best on this troublesome job!

[BMWSTOY]

Thanks Aussie and thanks all that attemted some good luck my way. There was no code on the OBD2 scanner so it must be out of time.
I think since I can do this almost by memory now, all I need is to make the crank tool and I might go back in.
Again, thanks to all for the help and good thoughts. Sure glad I don't need this as a daily driver -

[NMuzj100]

Check that you have a good charge in the battery after all the time sitting. It may have only had the single start left and after that nothing.

When I did my brakes I went nuts trying to figure out why the system would not pressurize only to find out that two days of monkeying around with the doors open had drained the battery. Overnight on the trickle charger and no problems.

[BMWSTOY]

Thanks NMuzj100. I did have a battery tender on it so don't think there is any issue there. Industrial Sears Die Hard in there too. It cranks just fine - just no fire and I do not want to attempt anymore - too concerned about those valves if not timed right.
Question: If I only pull the right cover (easy access) and turn the crank about 6 times - it the timing is correct on the Right every time at TDC, can I assume it is correct on the Left cam? I would not think so as the cams are independent but if anyone knows for sure, it could save me some time? I do plan on doing it all over - 2 days still saves me the $500 the dealers want.

[NMuzj100]

Sounds like going back in and resetting the timing is going to be the thing to do. I think the cams are independent and thats why they each have a wheel attached on the Tbelt. So, just because your right is correct does not mean your left is correct especially since you had some problems with slack in the belt.

Someone said they used plastic spring clamps to hold the belt in position on the cam gears as they reassembled everything. That may help.

[jp213a]

Originally Posted by BMWSTOY

Question: If I only pull the right cover (easy access) and turn the crank about 6 times - it the timing is correct on the Right every time at TDC, can I assume it is correct on the Left cam? I would not think so as the cams are independent but if anyone knows for sure, it could save me some time?

You and NMuzj100 are both correct, the left and right cams are independent so you'll need to check the cam pulley timing marks on both sides with the crank at DTC. Since the crank rotates twice for one rev of the cam shafts, you may need to turn the crank one rev if the cams are 180 degrees off their mark. Hope you don't have to drain the coolant just to get that left cover off.

[BMWSTOY]

It is not that hard of a job if there are not pitfalls -BIG IF - and I had a major one. I am going back in. Thanks again to all for the things to look for, but I went over the plugs (not that many) and all connections. I am hoping that the computer will not allow it to turn over because it is not in time and therefore protect those valves
Don't want to damage anything so for security, I will do it all over again. Decided not to take it to a shop as they would not be as careful as I am with the threads on the tensioner and they would charge $100 per hour to fix likely. I will hold it in place when taking the bolts back off either with a jack or something. After threading them back into aluminum they might be fragile.

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by BMWSTOY

It is not that hard of a job if there are not pitfalls -BIG IF - and I had a major one. I am going back in. Thanks again to all for the things to look for, but I went over the plugs (not that many) and all connections. I am hoping that the computer will not allow it to turn over because it is not in time and therefore protect those valves
Don't want to damage anything so for security, I will do it all over again. Decided not to take it to a shop as they would not be as careful as I am with the threads on the tensioner and they would charge $100 per hour to fix likely. I will hold it in place when taking the bolts back off either with a jack or something. After threading them back into aluminum they might be fragile.

I am hopefully going to dig back into mine tonight...but I think you can put the tensioner pin/small drill bit/tiny allen/hex key wrench into the tensioner hole to hold the tensioner piston before unbolting(?)...worth a try anyway.

[BMWSTOY]

So after all that it was the timing and the left - drivers side - cam was out of time. It is all back together and timed perfect this time - tensioner went on without another issue -
For Pete:
For everyone that helped:

for me and my father-in-law:

Yahoo, I think I can now write the FSM on replacing the timing belt

Next up: easy spark plugs.

[Aussie]

Wow, I'm glad it all worked out for you. You persisted, corrected your mistakes and saved afew $$$ doing it yourself.
Heres to ya!

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by BMWSTOY

So after all that it was the timing and the left - drivers side - cam was out of time. It is all back together and timed perfect this time - tensioner went on without another issue -
For Pete:
For everyone that helped:

for me and my father-in-law:

Yahoo, I think I can now write the FSM on replacing the timing belt

Next up: easy spark plugs.

Cheers...go get your beers

[ppressle]

Massive congratulations.

Pete

[BMWSTOY]

Well, I put it off, but now its time for the differential fluid changes - after 8 river crossings
Strange trip. Moderate Rated Trail and I loose a part 30 miles from home. My nut to the power steering pulley just fell off. Exiting at 70 mph off the highway was interesting. Found some really good people at 11 pm at night and got a bolt back on and was able to get home. Luckily did not loose the serp belt. Also glad I carry a spare now.

Now I remember why I wrench myself. If I had not done the timing belt, I would not have been able to find the problem in the dark and repair the vehicle.

[BMWSTOY]

Sure would have loved to have the lift, front bumper with a wench... soon

[pint]

Are those pics from down by the sand dunes?

[BMWSTOY]

More pictures... Awesome vehicle and now I want to build it up as much as the spouse can handle.
I used to let the air out doing this road down to 20 psi. I ran it this time with 40 psi. Also love the BFG's in sand and the rocks - very nice. I like the Michelin LTX-A/T more on road, but over the 500+ miles, the BFG's performed to my satisfaction.
And no rubbing at all in the 285's

[BMWSTOY]

After Medano Pass Road, the kids got a Colorado tourist detour.