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12-18-06, 03:11 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 698
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Chopped ARB deluxe winch bull bar
I have decided to shortened my 100 series ARB bumper by 3.5". The total length is now 5.5", down from 9.0" from grill to front end).
Since this IFS deluxe winch bull bar was designed to carry 15k or 12K winch motor, there are plently of space around my 8000i Warn winch.
This is the second modified I made to my ARB front bumper, the first one involved removing the top half of bull bar, leaving the lower bull bar in place. Deers is seldom seen around here....
However my ARB front bumper is sticking out too much, almost like a Pinnincho's nose and it rubbed againist the rocks & trees sooner than I like to.
So here is photos before and after modification to my ARB front bumper.
Cheers,
Last edited by Snook; 09-05-08 at 11:04 PM.
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12-18-06, 06:45 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 4,383
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That looks great, Snook! I've always wondered if it could be easily done. Well... how difficult was it? Details please?
__________________
98 LX470
85 BJ70
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12-18-06, 07:09 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Site Addict
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Location: OZ
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The only thing to be aware of that I can see is if you give your bar a bump on the corner, it may flex in and ding your panels without doing anything to the bar, making it worthless in this situation.
__________________
HDJ-100R TD 2003 Best mod, triple washer nozzle squirters Thanks to HOSER
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12-18-06, 07:33 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Reno
Posts: 5,960
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Looks good!!! Can you still (stupid question otherwise you wouldn't have cut it down  ) easily access the winch lock from top?
__________________
Modded '99 for overlanding/exploring: 35's, 4.88's, AO drawers, Slee rr, TJM fr, ARB fr locker, ear candy, Waeco CF-50, PowerGate with 2nd battery with custom home brew battery tray, home brew sliders & Slee belly and skid plates, 9.5XP/Masterpull, Solstice LEDs, OEM 864's, Foxes x 4, 12mm BL, Carl's UCAs, LT285/75R18 GY MT/R Kevlar, KK in tow... HAMified
ROTM: http://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-c...pressomon.html
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12-18-06, 10:53 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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250+ Club
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Location: Bay Area, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoser
That looks great, Snook! I've always wondered if it could be easily done. Well... how difficult was it? Details please?
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Thanks, Poser.
Here are some photos during the bumper modifications with my comments.
I have done some direct works to my M416 trailer such as adding tailgate and fender protection then two custom bumpers by Amando and me for his truck so it gives me an edge (and confidence), I guessed.
Cheers,
Last edited by Snook; 09-05-08 at 11:04 PM.
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12-18-06, 10:58 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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250+ Club
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Location: Bay Area, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 100 TD
The only thing to be aware of that I can see is if you give your bar a bump on the corner, it may flex in and ding your panels without doing anything to the bar, making it worthless in this situation.
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Good point. It depend on where the bumper hit, side is the most likely to flex. A sheet of metal has to warp under three tons but it can be minized with additional internal brackets and ribs which I am going to add. I want this bumper to serve as a frontal slider when need!
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12-18-06, 11:03 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spressomon
Looks good!!! Can you still (stupid question otherwise you wouldn't have cut it down  ) easily access the winch lock from top?
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Yes, three access panels is smaller, about 2 inches of open access panels is now underneath the grill, leaving four inches left.
But on the other hand, since the Warn controller box won't fit in middle access panel anymore, it was moved to internal left bumper. So the middle access panel is now much more opening, no more blocking by controller box!
Cheers,
Last edited by Snook; 09-05-08 at 11:04 PM.
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12-18-06, 11:09 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 4,383
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Hey, you added recovery points! Do you have a pic of what you did to the rear of the bumper?
__________________
98 LX470
85 BJ70
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12-18-06, 11:31 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoser
Hey, you added recovery points! Do you have a pic of what you did to the rear of the bumper?
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Here is a photo of recovery point during mock-up fitting.
Those long steel bars is connected to the frame directly, with high grade bolts as mentioned. No welding, just too unpredictable.
Cheers,
Last edited by Snook; 09-05-08 at 11:04 PM.
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12-18-06, 11:39 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Reno
Posts: 5,960
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Nice Jay! Now you've added another bit o'candy to my frigg'n list of to do's for mine...just when I thought I was making the list a lil'shorter
__________________
Modded '99 for overlanding/exploring: 35's, 4.88's, AO drawers, Slee rr, TJM fr, ARB fr locker, ear candy, Waeco CF-50, PowerGate with 2nd battery with custom home brew battery tray, home brew sliders & Slee belly and skid plates, 9.5XP/Masterpull, Solstice LEDs, OEM 864's, Foxes x 4, 12mm BL, Carl's UCAs, LT285/75R18 GY MT/R Kevlar, KK in tow... HAMified
ROTM: http://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-c...pressomon.html
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12-18-06, 11:48 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Left Coast, USA
Posts: 2,025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 100 TD
The only thing to be aware of that I can see is if you give your bar a bump on the corner, it may flex in and ding your panels without doing anything to the bar, making it worthless in this situation.
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I actually think the chances of that happening would be reduced, as you have now effectively lessened the length of the lever arm.
__________________
Derek Lee
`81 G-Wagen (460.333), `04 Land Cruiser (UZJ100)...plus some other junk...
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12-18-06, 11:59 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Site Addict
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The distance between the mounting point and the corner of the bar has not changed, if you look at the photos, the bar is very close to the front corner under the indicator. this is the point that I thought may be a problem if you bump a tree or rock, the bar has no room to flex.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dclee
I actually think the chances of that happening would be reduced, as you have now effectively lessened the length of the lever arm.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snook
Good point. It depend on where the bumper hit, side is the most likely to flex. A sheet of metal has to warp under three tons but it can be minized with additional internal brackets and ribs which I am going to add. I want this bumper to serve as a frontal slider when need!
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__________________
HDJ-100R TD 2003 Best mod, triple washer nozzle squirters Thanks to HOSER
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12-19-06, 08:40 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 100 TD
The distance between the mounting point and the corner of the bar has not changed, if you look at the photos, the bar is very close to the front corner under the indicator. this is the point that I thought may be a problem if you bump a tree or rock, the bar has no room to flex.
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Yes, the distance between the mounting point and corner of the bar do remained the same but on other hand, not only the ARB bracket is 3.5" shorter, the side bar is also 3.5" shorter so there is "less" leverage this time by 7".
And most of all the upper sheet metal of ARB bumper remained uncutted so it is still very stiff as the original. There are open gap of 1/2" all around for the bumper to move around if any.
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12-19-06, 10:32 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Left Coast, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 100 TD
The distance between the mounting point and the corner of the bar has not changed, if you look at the photos, the bar is very close to the front corner under the indicator. this is the point that I thought may be a problem if you bump a tree or rock, the bar has no room to flex.
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The length of the side wings is now shorter (front to rear). Shorter lever arm. In my experience, it's coming down on a rock and hitting the wings and bending them up that is the problem. ARB's "five-fold corner" probably helps, but the sheet metal is still pretty thin out there... Jay's mod should help out as well.
BTW, Kaymar rear bumpers have this exact same problem. The wings are so long and virtually unsupported, that they easily bend up into the sheet metal of the body when you come down on a boulder. Don't ask me how I know. I have a 4x4 Labs rear now (on the 80).
Jay, great work! Wanna do the same to my bumper?
__________________
Derek Lee
`81 G-Wagen (460.333), `04 Land Cruiser (UZJ100)...plus some other junk...
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12-19-06, 10:38 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Raleighworld, NC
Posts: 2,535
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Those recovery points are great. Toyota should had something like as option from the factory.
I need to talk to someone around these parts that could build some.
How hard to fabricate and sell some? Or maybe slee could build and sell.
Thanks,
uzj100
__________________
00 - UZJ100 - Step Sliders, Diff Drop, 865s, FRB's, BAK - 285/75 R 16
03 - UZJ120L
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12-20-06, 08:43 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uzj100
Those recovery points are great. Toyota should had something like as option from the factory.
I need to talk to someone around these parts that could build some.
How hard to fabricate and sell some? Or maybe slee could build and sell.
Thanks,
uzj100
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The LC/LX market for this recovery product is too small for someone like Slee to sell with any profit left PLUS a liablity if this product "failed" not because of design or defective but due to a poor method of recovery.
I don't know if this recovery point set up will work with different 100 series ARB bumper models like Safari. My deluxe ARB bumpers comes with open slots that allow me to insert the solid steel bars with little modification.
My front recovery point is a bit overkill in design because I rather not have a mentally of crossing my finger during the worst case pullout.
Cheers,
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12-20-06, 01:43 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Frankfort, KY
Posts: 750
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I came down on the front PS corner of my ARB on my 80(not out at the end of the wing, where it turns the corner) and flexed the entire bar up to the point that it dented both fenders and the valence panel under the grill and headlights. It can't get any weaker than it already is short of just being a stock bumper, but without adding reinforcements, its not gonna get any stronger either.
__________________
Josh
08 FJC - my first new vehicle!
91 FJ80-coming soon
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12-21-06, 12:39 AM
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#18 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dclee
Jay, great work! Wanna do the same to my bumper? 
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I will be happy to work on your bumper once I have a copy of key and unlimited access to your upcoming 63' 404.115 UNIMOG. Deal?
Cheers,
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12-21-06, 01:19 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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tlcwagons.org
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,745
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nice work Jay! looks great and I really like that W control plug- very cool idea. Look fwd to seeing it in person
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12-28-06, 11:40 AM
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#20 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spressomon
Looks good!!! Can you still (stupid question otherwise you wouldn't have cut it down  ) easily access the winch lock from top?
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Ok, here are photos that show what the access looks like after 3.5" cut-out. Two strips of metals was cutted out so it is one large panel access instead of three small panel access.
And the recovery points is now primed then spray with semigloss black.
Cheers,
Last edited by Snook; 09-05-08 at 11:04 PM.
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12-28-06, 11:44 AM
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#21 (permalink)
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tlcwagons.org
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,745
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Looks awesome Jay, very integrated and 200% better looking!
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12-28-06, 11:53 AM
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#22 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Left Coast, USA
Posts: 2,025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snook
I will be happy to work on your bumper once I have a copy of key and unlimited access to your upcoming 63' 404.115 UNIMOG. Deal?
Cheers,
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Haha, it'll be layed up for the forseeable future (the short list: extending the cab to a four door "DoKa," building internal cage with custom soft top, building custom bed, doing the diesel swap, putting in the power steering, new transmission, transmission cooler, crawler gears, custom fuel cell, 24-12V converter, replacing the PTO with an electric winch with a custom cradle in the middle of the truck and fairleads front and rear).
So, it'll be a LONG wait...
__________________
Derek Lee
`81 G-Wagen (460.333), `04 Land Cruiser (UZJ100)...plus some other junk...
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12-28-06, 01:29 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 483
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Can we do a same modification and install a winch with OEM bumper. I know the new gulf specification LC comes with a factory winch installed with a regular bumper. I badley need to install a winch but my wife won't let me go for a new bumper
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snook
Ok, here are photos that show what the access looks like after 3.5" cut-out. Two strips of metals was cutted out so it is one large panel access instead of three small panel access.
And the recovery points is now primed then spray with semigloss black.
Cheers,
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12-28-06, 02:19 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Raleighworld, NC
Posts: 2,535
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I would like a winch and recovery points as well with the OEM bumper. That would be sweet.
uzj100
__________________
00 - UZJ100 - Step Sliders, Diff Drop, 865s, FRB's, BAK - 285/75 R 16
03 - UZJ120L
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12-28-06, 05:58 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Reno
Posts: 5,960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snook
Ok, here are photos that show what the access looks like after 3.5" cut-out. Two strips of metals was cutted out so it is one large panel access instead of three small panel access.
And the recovery points is now primed then spray with semigloss black.
Cheers,
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Great job Jay! Thanks for the additional pics!
__________________
Modded '99 for overlanding/exploring: 35's, 4.88's, AO drawers, Slee rr, TJM fr, ARB fr locker, ear candy, Waeco CF-50, PowerGate with 2nd battery with custom home brew battery tray, home brew sliders & Slee belly and skid plates, 9.5XP/Masterpull, Solstice LEDs, OEM 864's, Foxes x 4, 12mm BL, Carl's UCAs, LT285/75R18 GY MT/R Kevlar, KK in tow... HAMified
ROTM: http://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-c...pressomon.html
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01-19-07, 02:49 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Louisville, KY
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Snook,
Great job on this conversion! One question for you, once you cut the wings down, did you fill in the back of the wing like it came originally or did you just leave it open? Any chance you can post a pic looking at the wing while standing back by the driver's door?
Thanks,
Greg
***Edit***
Alright, I lied! I have a couple more questions. In one of your posts you say you moved the holes back 2 1/8 inches but in another post you said the bracket is 3 1/2 inches shorter. Where did you remove the other 1 3/8 inches? Also, did you have to cut the bumper itself where it fastens to the winch mount or just at the ends and at the top where it would contact the body?
__________________
2001 UZJ100 Land Cruiser
ARB bar, OME lift (863's, N74L's), Slee diff drop, 295 BFG AT's, Slee step-sliders, Slee rear bumper, Husky liners, Hella 4000's
My Featured 100 Thread
Last edited by Greg B; 01-19-07 at 02:59 PM.
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01-19-07, 03:29 PM
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#27 (permalink)
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 7,446
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I had forgot you did this. This is one of the smartest mods out there!
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01-20-07, 10:40 AM
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#28 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg B
In one of your posts you say you moved the holes back 2 1/8 inches but in another post you said the bracket is 3 1/2 inches shorter. Where did you remove the other 1 3/8 inches? Also, did you have to cut the bumper itself where it fastens to the winch mount or just at the ends and at the top where it would contact the body?
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Boy, you are good in catching some missing details!
Here is an additional photos. The internal ARB bracket bumper's rear and middle is cutted out, leaving the front unchanged. Yellow area is removed.
The middle section is designed to buckle as a energy absorber and should not be tampered.
But I did and I am willing to take the risk if I hit something that have a masses greater than my truck.
Cheers,
Last edited by Snook; 09-05-08 at 11:04 PM.
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01-20-07, 10:54 AM
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#29 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg B
Snook,
Great job on this conversion! One question for you, once you cut the wings down, did you fill in the back of the wing like it came originally or did you just leave it open? Any chance you can post a pic looking at the wing while standing back by the driver's door?
Thanks,
Greg
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I used a scapped metal to fill this gap after I cut the wings by 3 1/2". This should be filled in becuase it act like a rib, keeping the whole wings a bit more stiff.
You may also notice the bull bar base is a bit narrow in order not to rub the fender in this photo.
Cheers,
Last edited by Snook; 09-05-08 at 11:04 PM.
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01-23-07, 02:07 PM
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#30 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 1,037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snook
Boy, you are good in catching some missing details!
Here is an additional photos. The internal ARB bracket bumper's rear and middle is cutted out, leaving the front unchanged. Yellow area is removed.
The middle section is designed to buckle as a energy absorber and should not be tampered.
But I did and I am willing to take the risk if I hit something that have a masses greater than my truck.
Cheers,
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Snook,
Thanks for the additional details and pics. That was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for sharing this thread, it is much appreciated!
__________________
2001 UZJ100 Land Cruiser
ARB bar, OME lift (863's, N74L's), Slee diff drop, 295 BFG AT's, Slee step-sliders, Slee rear bumper, Husky liners, Hella 4000's
My Featured 100 Thread
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