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Old 12-18-06, 03:11 PM   #1
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Chopped ARB deluxe winch bull bar

I have decided to shortened my 100 series ARB bumper by 3.5". The total length is now 5.5", down from 9.0" from grill to front end).

Since this IFS deluxe winch bull bar was designed to carry 15k or 12K winch motor, there are plently of space around my 8000i Warn winch.

This is the second modified I made to my ARB front bumper, the first one involved removing the top half of bull bar, leaving the lower bull bar in place. Deers is seldom seen around here....

However my ARB front bumper is sticking out too much, almost like a Pinnincho's nose and it rubbed againist the rocks & trees sooner than I like to.

So here is photos before and after modification to my ARB front bumper.

Cheers,


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Old 12-18-06, 06:45 PM   #2
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That looks great, Snook! I've always wondered if it could be easily done. Well... how difficult was it? Details please?


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Old 12-18-06, 07:09 PM   #3
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The only thing to be aware of that I can see is if you give your bar a bump on the corner, it may flex in and ding your panels without doing anything to the bar, making it worthless in this situation.


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Old 12-18-06, 07:33 PM   #4
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Looks good!!! Can you still (stupid question otherwise you wouldn't have cut it down ) easily access the winch lock from top?


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Old 12-18-06, 10:53 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoser View Post
That looks great, Snook! I've always wondered if it could be easily done. Well... how difficult was it? Details please?

Thanks, Poser.

Here are some photos during the bumper modifications with my comments.

I have done some direct works to my M416 trailer such as adding tailgate and fender protection then two custom bumpers by Amando and me for his truck so it gives me an edge (and confidence), I guessed.

Cheers,


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Nip/Tuck front ARB & rear 4x4Labs bumper w/ towing hooks - 8k Warn - Slee Slider - Drop diff - Slee T bar - 315 MTR - Slee HD Rear Spring - ARB Air Lockers - Regear 4.88 - Snorkel w/ GPS - ARB Refri - 1" spacers F & R - 3k W inverter - water heater shower system - '67 Custom Tailgated M416 trailer w/ Italian OverCamp
http://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-c...100-snook.html
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Old 12-18-06, 10:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 100 TD View Post
The only thing to be aware of that I can see is if you give your bar a bump on the corner, it may flex in and ding your panels without doing anything to the bar, making it worthless in this situation.
Good point. It depend on where the bumper hit, side is the most likely to flex. A sheet of metal has to warp under three tons but it can be minized with additional internal brackets and ribs which I am going to add. I want this bumper to serve as a frontal slider when need!


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Nip/Tuck front ARB & rear 4x4Labs bumper w/ towing hooks - 8k Warn - Slee Slider - Drop diff - Slee T bar - 315 MTR - Slee HD Rear Spring - ARB Air Lockers - Regear 4.88 - Snorkel w/ GPS - ARB Refri - 1" spacers F & R - 3k W inverter - water heater shower system - '67 Custom Tailgated M416 trailer w/ Italian OverCamp
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Old 12-18-06, 11:03 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by spressomon View Post
Looks good!!! Can you still (stupid question otherwise you wouldn't have cut it down ) easily access the winch lock from top?
Yes, three access panels is smaller, about 2 inches of open access panels is now underneath the grill, leaving four inches left.

But on the other hand, since the Warn controller box won't fit in middle access panel anymore, it was moved to internal left bumper. So the middle access panel is now much more opening, no more blocking by controller box!

Cheers,


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Nip/Tuck front ARB & rear 4x4Labs bumper w/ towing hooks - 8k Warn - Slee Slider - Drop diff - Slee T bar - 315 MTR - Slee HD Rear Spring - ARB Air Lockers - Regear 4.88 - Snorkel w/ GPS - ARB Refri - 1" spacers F & R - 3k W inverter - water heater shower system - '67 Custom Tailgated M416 trailer w/ Italian OverCamp
http://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-c...100-snook.html
Video by Snook: http://www.tlcwagons.org/Norcal_Wago...os/Videos.html

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Old 12-18-06, 11:09 PM   #8
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Hey, you added recovery points! Do you have a pic of what you did to the rear of the bumper?


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Old 12-18-06, 11:31 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by hoser View Post
Hey, you added recovery points! Do you have a pic of what you did to the rear of the bumper?
Here is a photo of recovery point during mock-up fitting.

Those long steel bars is connected to the frame directly, with high grade bolts as mentioned. No welding, just too unpredictable.

Cheers,


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Nip/Tuck front ARB & rear 4x4Labs bumper w/ towing hooks - 8k Warn - Slee Slider - Drop diff - Slee T bar - 315 MTR - Slee HD Rear Spring - ARB Air Lockers - Regear 4.88 - Snorkel w/ GPS - ARB Refri - 1" spacers F & R - 3k W inverter - water heater shower system - '67 Custom Tailgated M416 trailer w/ Italian OverCamp
http://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-c...100-snook.html
Video by Snook: http://www.tlcwagons.org/Norcal_Wago...os/Videos.html

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Old 12-18-06, 11:39 PM   #10
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Nice Jay! Now you've added another bit o'candy to my frigg'n list of to do's for mine...just when I thought I was making the list a lil'shorter


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Old 12-18-06, 11:48 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 100 TD View Post
The only thing to be aware of that I can see is if you give your bar a bump on the corner, it may flex in and ding your panels without doing anything to the bar, making it worthless in this situation.
I actually think the chances of that happening would be reduced, as you have now effectively lessened the length of the lever arm.


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Old 12-18-06, 11:59 PM   #12
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The distance between the mounting point and the corner of the bar has not changed, if you look at the photos, the bar is very close to the front corner under the indicator. this is the point that I thought may be a problem if you bump a tree or rock, the bar has no room to flex.



Quote:
Originally Posted by dclee View Post
I actually think the chances of that happening would be reduced, as you have now effectively lessened the length of the lever arm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snook View Post
Good point. It depend on where the bumper hit, side is the most likely to flex. A sheet of metal has to warp under three tons but it can be minized with additional internal brackets and ribs which I am going to add. I want this bumper to serve as a frontal slider when need!


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Old 12-19-06, 08:40 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 100 TD View Post
The distance between the mounting point and the corner of the bar has not changed, if you look at the photos, the bar is very close to the front corner under the indicator. this is the point that I thought may be a problem if you bump a tree or rock, the bar has no room to flex.
Yes, the distance between the mounting point and corner of the bar do remained the same but on other hand, not only the ARB bracket is 3.5" shorter, the side bar is also 3.5" shorter so there is "less" leverage this time by 7".

And most of all the upper sheet metal of ARB bumper remained uncutted so it is still very stiff as the original. There are open gap of 1/2" all around for the bumper to move around if any.


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Nip/Tuck front ARB & rear 4x4Labs bumper w/ towing hooks - 8k Warn - Slee Slider - Drop diff - Slee T bar - 315 MTR - Slee HD Rear Spring - ARB Air Lockers - Regear 4.88 - Snorkel w/ GPS - ARB Refri - 1" spacers F & R - 3k W inverter - water heater shower system - '67 Custom Tailgated M416 trailer w/ Italian OverCamp
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Old 12-19-06, 10:32 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 100 TD View Post
The distance between the mounting point and the corner of the bar has not changed, if you look at the photos, the bar is very close to the front corner under the indicator. this is the point that I thought may be a problem if you bump a tree or rock, the bar has no room to flex.
The length of the side wings is now shorter (front to rear). Shorter lever arm. In my experience, it's coming down on a rock and hitting the wings and bending them up that is the problem. ARB's "five-fold corner" probably helps, but the sheet metal is still pretty thin out there... Jay's mod should help out as well.

BTW, Kaymar rear bumpers have this exact same problem. The wings are so long and virtually unsupported, that they easily bend up into the sheet metal of the body when you come down on a boulder. Don't ask me how I know. I have a 4x4 Labs rear now (on the 80).

Jay, great work! Wanna do the same to my bumper?


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Old 12-19-06, 10:38 AM   #15
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Those recovery points are great. Toyota should had something like as option from the factory.

I need to talk to someone around these parts that could build some.

How hard to fabricate and sell some? Or maybe slee could build and sell.

Thanks,

uzj100


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Old 12-20-06, 08:43 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uzj100 View Post
Those recovery points are great. Toyota should had something like as option from the factory.

I need to talk to someone around these parts that could build some.

How hard to fabricate and sell some? Or maybe slee could build and sell.

Thanks,

uzj100
The LC/LX market for this recovery product is too small for someone like Slee to sell with any profit left PLUS a liablity if this product "failed" not because of design or defective but due to a poor method of recovery.

I don't know if this recovery point set up will work with different 100 series ARB bumper models like Safari. My deluxe ARB bumpers comes with open slots that allow me to insert the solid steel bars with little modification.

My front recovery point is a bit overkill in design because I rather not have a mentally of crossing my finger during the worst case pullout.

Cheers,


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Nip/Tuck front ARB & rear 4x4Labs bumper w/ towing hooks - 8k Warn - Slee Slider - Drop diff - Slee T bar - 315 MTR - Slee HD Rear Spring - ARB Air Lockers - Regear 4.88 - Snorkel w/ GPS - ARB Refri - 1" spacers F & R - 3k W inverter - water heater shower system - '67 Custom Tailgated M416 trailer w/ Italian OverCamp
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Old 12-20-06, 01:43 PM   #17
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I came down on the front PS corner of my ARB on my 80(not out at the end of the wing, where it turns the corner) and flexed the entire bar up to the point that it dented both fenders and the valence panel under the grill and headlights. It can't get any weaker than it already is short of just being a stock bumper, but without adding reinforcements, its not gonna get any stronger either.


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Old 12-21-06, 12:39 AM   #18
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Jay, great work! Wanna do the same to my bumper?
I will be happy to work on your bumper once I have a copy of key and unlimited access to your upcoming 63' 404.115 UNIMOG. Deal?

Cheers,


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Nip/Tuck front ARB & rear 4x4Labs bumper w/ towing hooks - 8k Warn - Slee Slider - Drop diff - Slee T bar - 315 MTR - Slee HD Rear Spring - ARB Air Lockers - Regear 4.88 - Snorkel w/ GPS - ARB Refri - 1" spacers F & R - 3k W inverter - water heater shower system - '67 Custom Tailgated M416 trailer w/ Italian OverCamp
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Old 12-21-06, 01:19 AM   #19
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nice work Jay! looks great and I really like that W control plug- very cool idea. Look fwd to seeing it in person


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Old 12-28-06, 11:40 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by spressomon View Post
Looks good!!! Can you still (stupid question otherwise you wouldn't have cut it down ) easily access the winch lock from top?
Ok, here are photos that show what the access looks like after 3.5" cut-out. Two strips of metals was cutted out so it is one large panel access instead of three small panel access.

And the recovery points is now primed then spray with semigloss black.

Cheers,


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2000 UZJ100
Nip/Tuck front ARB & rear 4x4Labs bumper w/ towing hooks - 8k Warn - Slee Slider - Drop diff - Slee T bar - 315 MTR - Slee HD Rear Spring - ARB Air Lockers - Regear 4.88 - Snorkel w/ GPS - ARB Refri - 1" spacers F & R - 3k W inverter - water heater shower system - '67 Custom Tailgated M416 trailer w/ Italian OverCamp
http://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-c...100-snook.html
Video by Snook: http://www.tlcwagons.org/Norcal_Wago...os/Videos.html

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Old 12-28-06, 11:44 AM   #21
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Looks awesome Jay, very integrated and 200% better looking!


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Old 12-28-06, 11:53 AM   #22
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I will be happy to work on your bumper once I have a copy of key and unlimited access to your upcoming 63' 404.115 UNIMOG. Deal?

Cheers,

Haha, it'll be layed up for the forseeable future (the short list: extending the cab to a four door "DoKa," building internal cage with custom soft top, building custom bed, doing the diesel swap, putting in the power steering, new transmission, transmission cooler, crawler gears, custom fuel cell, 24-12V converter, replacing the PTO with an electric winch with a custom cradle in the middle of the truck and fairleads front and rear).

So, it'll be a LONG wait...


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Old 12-28-06, 01:29 PM   #23
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Can we do a same modification and install a winch with OEM bumper. I know the new gulf specification LC comes with a factory winch installed with a regular bumper. I badley need to install a winch but my wife won't let me go for a new bumper



Quote:
Originally Posted by Snook View Post
Ok, here are photos that show what the access looks like after 3.5" cut-out. Two strips of metals was cutted out so it is one large panel access instead of three small panel access.

And the recovery points is now primed then spray with semigloss black.

Cheers,
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Old 12-28-06, 02:19 PM   #24
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I would like a winch and recovery points as well with the OEM bumper. That would be sweet.

uzj100


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Old 12-28-06, 05:58 PM   #25
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